Friday, April 29, 2011

Duplicating products: Pear & Poppy Seed Microderm Polisher

In the duplicating products post, Lana asked if we could duplicate this product, the Pear & Poppy Seed Microderm Polisher...

Pyrus Communis (Pear) Pulp, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Pulp, Pyrus Communis (Pear) Juice, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Juice, Papaver Somniferum (Poppy) Seed, Juglans Regia (Fine Walnut) Exfoliant, Silica, Vegetable Glycerin, Cyamopsis Tetragnoloba (Guar) Gum, Plantago Lanceolata (Plantain) Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea), Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Alfalfa, Mica, Glycolic Acid, Vegetable Squalene, Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10), Tocopheryl Actate (Vitamin E), Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C Ester), Glycine Soya (Soybean) Oil

And honestly, I don't think we can. If you take a look at the list, it's filled with all kinds of fruit juices and pulps, but we don't see a good preservative in there. Yes, we could make it and use our own preservatives and keep it in the fridge and use it for a week, but making something like this at home will result in a really ugly product (think about what an apple looks like when the inside is exposed to oxygen!) that won't be good for more than a few hours. We see some oils in there - apricot kernel, squalene, Vitamin E, Ascorbyl Palmitate, and soy bean oil - but there's no emulsifier.

If you really want to try making this product, here's a thought...Remove all those pulps and juices out of the mix and start with the ingredient list around the glycerin (we'll add the exfoliants later). The key to this recipe is the guar gum. We need to hydrate it before using it in our products, so it's suggested that you sprinkle the guar gum over your room temperature water phase, stick blend or mix well, then leave to sit for about 15 minutes or so or until it is well hydrated (you'll be able to tell because it creates a gel). Then you can add your other water phase ingredients like aloe vera, hydrosols, proteins, and so on and heat and hold as usual. The usage suggested ranges between 0.3% to 5%, so you'll have to do some playing to figure out the best usage for your product. Guar can emulsify small amounts of oils, and looking at the ingredient list, if the maximum usage for guar is 5%, then we can see that everything that comes below it would be at 5% or less.

If we used each of the oils at 1% or less (1% apricot kernel, 1% squalane, 0.5% Vitamin E, 0.5% Ascorbyl Palmitate, 0.5% soy bean oil), then we might just have enough guar gum (if we use 5%) to emulsify those things. Try making this product, then add the various exfoliants and cosmeceuticals and see if you like it. Make sure you preserve this properly - see this section for information on preservatives and usage rates - and don't try it with the fruit juices!

Sorry I couldn't be more helpful here, but I really don't see how this product is possible with all those ready to go bad juices and pulps. But I think you could make a nice scrub with the guar gum, some exfoliants, and some oils. (As a note, I think the green colour comes from the alfalfa they're using and not the actual juices and pulps, and perhaps from the mica.)

If you want to make a suggestion for a product we could try duplicating, please click on this link and make a comment! Please include the ingredient list from a reputable source and a link to the product so I don't have to search all over the 'net for it! 


Madeaj said...

I am always curious about products claiming fresh food ingredients. I want to know how they preserve them. I looked on this products website. They list the ingredients as Key ingredients. That suggests to me that the list is not necessarily in usage order but in the order of their idea of importance. Also on the website, the fruits are not listed as pulp. I don't know how they are listed on the jar. But I wonder if the company actually uses powdered fruit extracts rather than fresh pulp? If that is the case, then extracts are probably used at less than 1% total. What do you think?

Mychelle said...

I often wonder about the Eminence products. I have a jar of their Yam & Pumpkin Enzyme Peel Mask that has been sitting in a drawer in my bathroom for about two years. The primary ingredients are pulps and no preservative is listed on my jar. I am sure any actual exfoliation is due to the glycolic acid, listed third. I just checked it out (it was a gift and I only used it once) and it smells just like it did the day I got it, no rancidity, visible contamination, or instability. I find it very hard to believe their is actual fruit in this and no preservative. Here are the ingredients:

Yam Puree, Pumpkin Puree, Glycolic Acid, Soybean Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sunflower Oil, Avocado Oil, Vegetable Glycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Orange Pulp, Pineapple Pulp, Corn Meal, Carrot Juice, Pineapple Enzyme, Papaya Enzyme, Asafetida Juice, Phytocollagen, White Willow Bark Extract, Calendula Oil, Comfrey Root Extract, White Tea, Lavender Oil, Allantoin, Panthenol, Glycine Derivative, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Orange Oil And Frankincense Essential Oil, Grapeseed Oil.

Smells nice and feels nice, though it was too rich for my oily skin. However, this has to be an incomplete ingredient list.

Madeaj said...

Hi Mychelle,

Thanks for that list, I didn't want to go search one out in the store. The curiosity was bothering me. Three ingredients act as preservatives in food-based products. I don't know how effective they are, I did a little research.

Glycine Derivative, Sodium Benzoate, & Potassium Sorbate. All three of these are used as food production preservatives. Potassium sorbate is added to wine at the end of fermentation to prevent spoiling and further fermentation. Sodium Benzoate is a salt. And Glycine Derivative is an antibacterial.

I guess it makes sense to use food preservatives because these products are more food than anything else.

I wonder why they even added Grapeseed oil. It is listed as the last ingredient and we can't be getting any of the goodness from it as an emollient.

Madeaj said...

Okay I did a little more research. It looks like they combine wine-making and preservative (jellies and jams) processes with body product processes. Clever if you can get it to work. I just found out on a wine-making site, that wine makers add a titch (>1%) of olive oil to the wort to prevent further yeast oxidation.