Thursday, April 7, 2011

Duplicating products: Neutrogena's Body Oil

Someone suggested Neutrogena's Body Oil for a duplication, so let's take a look at it!

Ingredients: Isopropyl Myristate, Sesame (Sesamum Indicum) Oil, PEG 40 Sorbitan Peroleate, Propylparaben, BHT, Fragrance

Isopropyl myristate - An ester that makes our products feel less greasy. It can be used as an oil to make products feel less greasy.

Sesame oil - An oil that contains a lot of linoleic acid, which will help repair skin's barrier repair mechanisms, and oleic acid, which will increase moisturization. It isn't staining to sheets or fabric.

PEG 40 sorbitan peroleate - An emulsifier and surfactant. Not really sure why this is here because this is an anhydrous product and we really don't need to include an emulsifier in something that contains all oils.

I have to point out that I wrote this post years ago, and I totally get why this has an emulsifier. It's so it will rinse off cleanly in the shower, leaving behind a lovely moisturized feeling that is less greasy feeling than just putting straight oil on your skin! 

If you want that sensation with this product, I encourage you to try a solubilizer like PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, polysorbate 80, and so on at up to 10% in place of 10% of the sesame oil and see what you think. You might need to tweak it more or less, but that's the general idea! 

Propylparaben - The preservative.

BHT - Anti-oxidant to keeps the oils from going rancid. (You can use any oil soluble anti-oxidant, like Vitamin E, in its place.)

Fragrance - Makes it smell pretty!

This is a pretty basic recipe that I'd make with IPM, sesame oil, Vitamin E (1%), and fragrance (1%). The hard part is figuring out the IPM to sesame oil ratio that you like. I made a body oil like a while ago and I love it, (find it in this post) so this is what I would suggest as a starting recipe. I like the combination of fractionated coconut oil and sesame oil because the sesame oil can feel a bit heavy on my skin after a shower, and I thought the combination of the two esters (FCO and IPM) and the oil was nice. You can use any ratios you like for the oils, and I realize the FCO isn't in the original, so to truly duplicate it, you'll want to leave it out.

33% sesame oil
33% fractionated coconut oil
32% IPM
1% Vitamin E
1% fragrance oil

Get a bottle (I like a spray bottle, but you can use a disc cap bottle here) and add the ingredients in any order to the bottle. Shake well. Use and rejoice! 

Join me tomorrow to duplicate Carol's Daughter Hair Milk. 


Petra said...

I wonder if the PEG 40 is there to turn the oil into a lotion, since I believe it is designed as an after shower oil?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Petra. That makes sense! I didn't realize it was intended for after showering. But you don't need an emulsifier with a body oil you use after towelling off, and I wouldn't know where to buy this stuff, so I left it out! Great idea!

Lisa BTB said...

This can also be added to bath water so possibly to blend with the water and not have the oil sit on top. I make bath bombs with poly 80 for the same reason.

Anonymous said...

Oh my word! I've been struggling with duplicating the CD Hair Milk for the longest. Can't wait to see your input!

Anonymous said...

Thank you so much for the recipe! I didn't get back until now because my Dad had emergency open heart surgery.

This particular body oil works best if I'm dripping wet, fresh out of the shower and then slather it on. If I put in on after I'm dry, it doesn't work. Can you explain why that would work that way? And would that change how I would make it up?

It's amazing stuff, since everything else leaves me with dry flaky skin.

this is extremely oily at first, but by the time I'm dry, it doesn't oil up my sheets or my clothes.

Thanks again for your help! :) -KAngel

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Angel. I hope your dad is doing okay - I went through many heart problems with my dad and it's always so stressful for everyone!

This should be suitable for after shower usage, and that doesn't change the recipe. The whole point is to trap in moisture after a shower, so if you don't have moisture on your skin, it won't work. This is why it's great post bathing but not so great any other time of the day. It's like a lotion bar or whipped butter - they're really only moisturizing if there's some moisture on your skin. If you have really dry skin, what are you trapping in?

If you wanted to turn this into a bath oil, I'd use about 10% polysorbate 80 in place of 10% of the oils.

Anonymous said...

I was curious, why does the bottle call it "light sesame oil" but the ingredients list just regular sesame oil? Or is there a light sesame oil I should be buying?

Thanks again for all your help! :)


P.s. yes, dad is home now and is doing well. He starts rehab in a week. :)

Pete said...

I'm wondering if I can use Glycerine in place of the PEG-40 to act as emulsifier? Anyone knows if this will work?

zanox II said...

Hi Susan!

I'm back giving more review (just in case I got lucky ;)). I've made a duplicate version of after shower body oil just like the Neutrogena. The oil is use after shower, before towelling off. It leaves skin smooth and seals in moisture. My version is as follows:

After shower body oil:
40% sunflower seed oil
38% IPM
20% Polysorbate 80
1% Vitamin E
1% fragrance oil

With the addition of Polysorbate 80, the oil will turn milky once in contact with wet skin and the skin will then be pat dry with towel. This is by far the easiest way to moisturize skin after shower, instead of slathering body lotion all over body (which I still do, some times). The recipe is suitable for beginner and does not involve any heat and hold.

Hope everyone can enjoy my version of body oil. Try to play around with different types of oil to see which one you like. I still prefer good 'ol sunflower oil :)


Edited to add: signature.

Tee Pee said...

Thank you for this Susan & zanox. My mother & I LOVE this stuff, but I hate that it contains a paraben. I'm going to try both of your options really soon, and hopefully have a healthier version.

Thanks :o)

Myriad said...

I'm wondering if I can make a CP soap for my laundry out of your formula! Say, 2/3 Neutrogena Body Oil (1/3 body oil, 1/3 IPM) and 1/3 coconut oil. I have a huge bottle of It but I don't like the smell.

IPM has a saponification value similar to stearic acid, so it should work with the lye. I'm excited to try it out!

Sue Kowal said...

Hi, I'm wondering what would the fragrance be that you add to this recipe?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Sue! I'm sorry, but I have no idea what you might use. I guess it's up to you!

Jo Shepherd said...

I am confused at the terms used. What is ester? what are(FCO and IPM)? I use this as a bath oil that is what the peg40 is for, to keep it from separating in the bath water. What is anhydrous?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Jo! I explain what they are in the post. On the right hand side of the blog, I have links to many ingredients, and you'll find the answers you seek there. I encourage you to check out the newbie section of the blog for the answers to your questions.

Ron Guba said...

The PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate is an emulsifier that has the unusual capacity to stay dissolved in vegetable, etc. oils. This allows an oil based product to be easily rinsed off. Useful for oil-based makeup removers. Natural alternatives are polyglceryl-5 oleate and sucrose laurate.