Monday, April 18, 2011

Duplicating products: Giovanni 50:50 Balanced Hydrating-Calming Conditioner (part 2)

In yesterday's post, we took some time to look at the ingredient list for Giovanni 50:50 Balanced Hydrating-Calming Conditioner, but we didn't create the recipe. So let's take a look at a possible recipe for this product!

I can't find brassicamidopropyl betaine anywhere, so I'll have to replace it with Incroquat BTMS-50 as the main conditioner. I can add 0.5% guar gum and up to 2% cetrimonium chloride as the other conditioners.

I have cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, but I don't have stearyl alcohol, so I'll have to leave that out. We generally use the fatty alcohols at 1/2 the amount of the conditioning agents, but this recipe seems to use more than that as the cetyl and stearyl come before the brassicamidopropyl betaine, so we'll go with a little more than usual.

And remember you can choose any combination of the extracts you wish as we're not really sure how much they're using in the product. I'm going to use chamomile, rosemary, and lavender hydrosols at 10% each in the heated water phase, and 0.5% rosemary extract, 0.5% chamomile extract, and 0.5% horsetail extract with 1% essential oil blend (rosemary, clary sage, thyme, and lavender) in the cool down phase.

POSSIBLE DUPLICATION FOR GIOVANNI 50:50 BALANCE HYDRATING CALMING CONDITIONER
HEATED WATER PHASE
48% water
10% chamomile hydrosol
10% rosemary hydrosol
10% lavender hydrosol
3% glycerin
0.5% cationic guar

HEATED OIL PHASE
3% cetyl alcohol
6% Incroquat BTMS-50
2% cetearyl alcohol
2% cetrimonium chloride

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% panthenol
0.5% preservative
1% essential oil blend
0.5% rosemary extract
0.5% chamomile extract
0.5% horsetail extract

Add the cationic guar to room temperature distilled water and mix well, stirring occasionally for about 15 minutes (although it could take as long as 30 minutes). When the cationic guar gum is hydrated, add to the heated water phase of your product and stir well.

Weigh all the heated water phase together in a heatproof container and put into a double boiler until the temperature reaches 70˚C. Heat and hold for 20 minutes. Add the guar to the water phase when hydrated and stir well.

Weigh all the heated oil phase together in a heatproof container and put into a double boiler until the temperature reaches 70˚C. Heat and hold for 20 minutes.

Remove the two containers from the heat and pour the water phase into the oil phase and mix really well. Allow to cool to 45˚C to 50˚C, then add the cool down ingredients and mix well. When it reaches room temperature, bottle, use, and rejoice!

Join me tomorrow as we continue our duplicating series by making Boots Organic Rich Body Butter!

1 comment:

Gabrielle said...

Hi Susan, just wanted to say thanks again :)