Friday, April 8, 2011

Duplicating products: Carol's Daughter Hair Milk

Bajan Lilly suggested this product, so let's take a look at it! (As a note, I'm not sure which one of the hair milks this might be as there is a shampoo - it's not that one - and a conditioner - not that one either - and a bunch of different ones that contain ingredient lists that are quite similar to, but not exactly like, this ingredient list.)

Ingredients: Water, Soy Bean Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Vegetable Emulsifying Wax, Cocoa Butter, Shea Butter, Apricot Kernel Oil, Beeswax, Essential Oil Or Lemongrass, Fragrance, Jojoba Oil, Wheat Germ Oil, Vitamin C, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Bicarbonate, Phenoxyethanol, Tetradibutyl Pentaerithrityl, Hydroxyhydrocinnamate.

Let's take a look at the ingredients. (As a note, if there's a link to the ingredient, you can click on that for more detail as I can't replicate everything I've written about every oil in this post! It'd be 40 pages long!)

Water - Our solvent.

Soy bean oil - A great emollient filled with linoleic acid, Vitamin E, and phytosterols. In a hair product, this can soften hair and reduce static and fly-aways.

Sweet almond oil - Another emollient filled with linoleic and oleic acids.

Vegetable emulsifying wax - This could be any form of e-wax. Emulsifies our oils and water.

Cocoa butter - An emollient that thickens our products.

Shea butter - An emollient that can thicken our products.

Apricot kernel oil - A light, emollient oil.

Beeswax - Used to thicken our products.

Essential Oil Or Lemongrass - Not sure what this means other than it could have an essential oil or it could have lemongrass essential oil?

Fragrance - Makes it smell nice!

Jojoba Oil - This oil penetrates through our hair follicles, so it'll be good for our scalp and will act as an emollient for our hair.

Wheat Germ Oil - Another great emollient.

Vitamin C - An anti-oxidant.

Xanthan Gum - A thickener. Use at 0.1% to 0.3% in our lotions. (More information, scroll down.)

Sodium Bicarbonate - Can be used as a pH adjuster and will make the product more alkaline.

Phenoxyethanol - Part of the preservative system. It's generally paired up with a paraben or another preservative that is better with fighting fungus!

Tetradibutyl Pentaerithrityl hydroxyhydrocinnamate - Another anti-oxidant (And note, in the ingredient list there's a comma which would indicate these are two different ingredients, but they're just one.)

So what do we have here? If you guessed it was a lotion that we put on hair, you're right! The big difference between a conditioning product and this hair milk is the emulsifier. If we were making a conditioner, we'd use BTMS-50 or another cationic emulsifier. In this case, we're using e-wax, which means it won't be positively charged. So if you want to duplicate this product, you're going to be making a lotion!

How do we figure out how much to use of each ingredient? Look at the e-wax. We have two oils above the e-wax, and the rest fall below. When we make a lotion at home, the e-wax amount generally falls in the middle of our oil phase with oils making up more (all the oils, not just one), the butters about the same amount, and our thickener (which isn't here) in a smaller amount.

The jojoba and wheat germ oils are in the 1% category below the fragrance, so we know we are going to be using mostly soy bean and sweet kernel oil, with the rest of the ingredients coming in at 2% to 3% at the most. I have no idea what the viscosity of this product might be, but considering it's called a milk, I'm thinking it's around a 70% water lotion viscosity.

If we're making a 70% water lotion, I generally go for 24% oils with a 6% emulsifier amount. I'm using Polawax here because I always use Polawax, but you can use your emulsifier of choice. If you wanted to make a companion conditioner, just switch out the e-wax for Incroquat BTMS-50 and you've got yourself a very moisturizing and conditioning product! (Just leave out the xanthan gum in a conditioner - you don't need it!)

I'm not including sodium bicarbonate as the pH should be fine, but you can adjust your pH as you want (click here for more information).

POSSIBLE DUPLICATE FOR CAROL'S DAUGHTER HAIR MILK
HEATED WATER PHASE
67.2% water
0.3% xanthan gum

HEATED OIL PHASE
6% e-wax
8% soy bean oil
7% sweet almond oil
2% cocoa butter
2% shea butter
2% apricot kernel oil
1% beeswax
1% jojoba oil
1% wheat germ oil

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% Vitamin E
0.5% to 1.5% preservative
1% fragrance

Use the basic lotion making instructions for this recipe.

I've maxed out the xanthan gum here. You could leave it out or you could reduce it if you find this too thick. If you want this to be thicker without xanthan gum, you can increase the cocoa butter or shea butter to be 4%. If you want this to be thinner, reduce those butters. I've used Vitamin E instead of Vitamin C as it is more stable as an anti-oxidant, and I'm using my favourite preservative in here (liquid Germall Plus at 0.5%), but you can use your favourite at the recommended amount and modify your water phase accordingly.

Let me know what you think if you try this recipe!

Join me tomorrow for more duplicating fun!

12 comments:

Angelica said...

Great thoughts!

I remember your posts on facial serum and was wondering how you would duplicate Kiehl's Midnight Recovery Concentrate. Thanks!

Madeaj said...

Good post. I've been experimenting with making a hair lotion. This is close to what I came up with.

Thanks.

Anonymous said...

Thank you Susan. Is this a leave-on or do use it after shampooing,let it soak in a few minutes and then wash out?

Warm regards,
Gina

p said...

Hi Susan,

Maybe "Essential Oil Or Lemongrass" is a typo and should instead be "Essential Oil of Lemongrass"?

Btw, when I searched for the ingredients list to check if there is a typo, I found a pretty different ingredients list for this product, on Carol's Daughter's web page: http://www.carolsdaughter.com/portal.aspx?CN=22416AB3B27E&BCID=8CAE467ABA14

Here is the ingredients list from that page:
Water (Aqua), Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Beeswax, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus (Lemongrass) Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Sodium Bicarbonate, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance (Parfum)

I couldn't find any other of their products with the ingredients list in the post. Here are their other Hair Milks: http://www.carolsdaughter.com/portal.aspx?CN=8CAE467ABA14

Just FYI, in case anyone is addicted and wants to duplicate this exact product!

P

Denise said...

Thanks for all the great information in your blog!! I am just beginning to formulate after making soap for many years and I have learned so much from your experience.

There may be an extra coma in the ingredient list. Perhaps it should read "Essential oil or Lemongrass Fragrance," instead of "...or Lemongrass, Fragrance." They may use both depending on availability and price; this way the label is always correct.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Angelica. Could you please put your suggestion as a comment in this post along with the ingredient list and a link?

Hi Gina. I have no idea how it works - I'm just trying to duplicate the recipe.

Hi p. I got the ingredient list from this blog, as suggested by someone in the introduction to duplicating thread. I find that I can visit three different sites and find three different lists - as is really obvious in the Luster's Pink light oil moisturizer post - and I'm sorry I didn't duplicate the product the same as the ingredient list you found as it seems more interesting!

p said...

Wow, the inaccurate ingredients lists for Luster's Pink Light are really something!

Gina, this Hair Milk is supposed to work as a curl definer. Here's a link to Sephora for more info about how people use the product: http://www.sephora.com/browse/product.jhtml?id=P262502#moreInfo

regfmcd said...

Thank you p.

Warm regards
Gina

Bajan Lily said...

Thanks, this was really good as following your thought process (re: percentages etc) is super helpful, particularly when I know what the end result should feel like (so I can go back and tweak it myself!)

I also didn't realise that this was technically a hair lotion as opposed to a 'leave in' conditioner! I think I'm going to try duplicating with e-wax and then with btms to see how they differ!

You're awesome! I definitely enjoyed today's lesson!

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan!

Could I make this using Ceteareth-20 and Glyceryl Stearate? It's all I have lol, and I was hoping I could go that way. I want something thin, really like a thin hair "lotion". Thank you- Mrashi!

Unknown said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Lashunn said...

Hi Susan - I have Afro textured hair, and I am interested in making a shea butter based hair cream/moisturizer. I would like to include shea butter, water, aloe vera, juice and oils (avocado, coconut, olive, and jojoba). I would like to include a humectant, but glycerine tends to make my hair puffy. Can I use panthenol? What can I use as an emulsifier, and preservative ? Is there a base recipe you can recommend? I have searched the blog and can't find one that is quite what I'm looking for. Thanks in advance for your help!