Thursday, March 17, 2011

Using cosmeceuticals in a lotion: Tweaking a dry skin moisturizer

I still haven't received the cosmeceuticals I ordered - I feel like a kid on Christmas Eve waiting for Santa, only I know what's inside the box - but I thought I'd take a look at some of the cosmeceutical ingredients we've reviewed in the last week and how we can incorporate them into a product. So let's say we're going with this moisturizer recipe for dry skin (click for more information on why I used each ingredient).


MODIFIED FACIAL MOISTURIZER FOR DRY SKIN
WATER PHASE
20% aloe vera
20% lavender hydrosol
32% water
3% glycerin
2% other humectant
2% hydrolyzed silk protein

OIL PHASE
12% oils - 8% borage oil, 4% squalane
4% e-wax or Polawax
2% cetyl alcohol

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% to 1% preservative
2% panthenol
0.5% green tea extract
0.5% chamomile extract
1% Vitamin E

So let's say you want to add some niacinamide to help with protection from the elements, a reduction of skin blotchiness, and reduction of trans epidermal water loss. Let's put 2% in the heated water phase of this product. And you want to add some DMAE to help with decreasing fine lines and increasing skin's firmness. Let's put 2% in the cool down phase. And you want to include some beta glucan to help your skin with inflammation and fine lines and wrinkles. Let's put 2% into the heated water phase! 

All of these ingredients can be included by reducing our water amount in the heated water phase to compensate for the extra ingredients. 

And remember not to include too many exfoliating ingredients into one product. We don't want your skin to be red and itchy as you experience the fun and excitement of excessive desquamation

MODIFIED FACIAL MOISTURIZER FOR DRY SKIN
WATER PHASE
20% aloe vera
20% lavender hydrosol
26% water
3% glycerin
2% other humectant
2% hydrolyzed silk protein
2% niacinamide
2% beta glucan

OIL PHASE
12% oils - 8% borage oil, 4% squalane
4% e-wax or Polawax
2% cetyl alcohol

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% to 1% preservative
2% panthenol
0.5% green tea extract
0.5% chamomile extract
1% Vitamin E
2% DMAE

This product will be much thicker than the original version of the moisturizer because it has 6% less water, which means we're actually creating at 70% water lotion. I think this might be too thick as a day moisturizer and more suitable as a night moisturizer. So let's say you want to include these lovely ingredients but don't want something this thick. What to do? We turn to a thinner lotion and modify it to have a smaller water phase, but not as small as this! (Click here for the 88% water facial moisturizer recipe for more information.) 

BASIC FACIAL MOISTURIZER RECIPE
WATER PHASE
85.5% water

OIL PHASE
8% oils
4% emulsifier
2% thickener

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% to 1% preservative

So if we want to include 6% cosmeceuticals, we would reduce our water amount to 79.5%, add a nice humectant, use the oils of our choice, and include any other ingredients we really like. This is just a basic example. As usual, I encourage you to tweak it to include any ingredients your skin loves like proteins, aloe vera, hydrosols, panthenol, allantoin, and so on, remembering to adjust your water phase to compensate for added water soluble ingredients. 

BASIC FACIAL MOISTURIZER TWEAKED TO INCLUDE SOME COSMECEUTICALS
HEATED WATER PHASE
79.5% water
2% beta glucan
2% niaciamide

HEATED OIL PHASE
8% oils
4% emulsifier
2% thickener

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% to 1% preservative
2% DMAE

Join me tomorrow for more fun formulating with cosmeceuticals! 

2 comments:

Will said...

Happy St. Patrick's Day!

I'm going to celebrate, not with a drink, but by playing with some new stuff.

I bought tamanu oil, and I'm loving the smell of it. I was searching your blog to see if you've ever discussed it, and found no entries.

The things I want to tinker with today are tamanu oil, evening primrose oil (which I've never used), and orchid extract.

I'm thinking of a hand/body lotion including tamanu, and a simple facial serum using EPO and orchid extract, which smells very interesting, too.

Today, I'm formulating by smell!

Anyone have any suggestions related to my days planned endeavors?

Have a great day!

Thanks, Will

Anonymous said...

Thank you Susan.

I like tamanu oil but only used it for burns so far. I`m waiting for it to arrive.

Gina