Saturday, February 5, 2011

Some thoughts about greasiness in lotions...

I know most people, if asked, will say they prefer a drier feeling lotion, but a lot of those perceptions are based upon commercial products that contain mostly mineral oil. Most of our vegetable oils feel less greasy than mineral oil, and all of our esters definitely feel that way.

So here are a few of my thoughts on drier feeling lotions...

1. Don't base your assessment of greasiness on a commercial lotion (things like Jergen's or house brand hand lotions). Most homemade lotions feel less greasy than commercial products.

2. Choose Incroquat BTMS-50 as your emulsifier. This one little switch can make a very greasy lotion feel much drier with what's generally described as a powdery, silky feeling.

3. Think about your emollients and choose drier feeling oils. Recipes with shea butter will feel greasier than those made with mango butter. Recipes with soy bean and sunflower oil will feel greasier than those with avocado or borage or evening primrose oil. Learn about your oils (check out this carrier oil comparison chart or the exotic oil comparison chart, or click on the emollients link to see detailed posts about our carrier oils, butters, exotic oils, and esters) and know which ones offer the feeling you want.

4. Add a little IPM or IPP to your product. As little as 2% of these esters can reduce the feeling of greasiness pretty dramatically!

Here are a few ideas for recipes to make a drier feeling lotion...
Formulating a drier feeling lotion. 
Formulating a drier, light feeling lotion. 
Formulating a drier lotion with esters. 
And I have tons more around here somewhere. Take a look around!

15 comments:

Pam said...

Susan all I want to say is that you are the best...thank you for sharing all of your knowledge in such a free and supportive way.

sfs said...

I concur!

Will said...

We're getting the nasty weather in Cleveland now, no fair!

On the subject of less greasy feeling lotions...

What effect does cyclomethicone have on greasiness?

I just tried dimethicone (at 2%) for the first time in a hand lotion as I needed a better barrier than beeswax. I'm not sure I noticed slimy-greasiness as much as a long lasting shine, which I didn't care for.

So before I spend more money on something else I don't care for, I figured I'd do my due diligence and ask.

Thanks, Will

Patrick said...

Hi, Patrick here.

I've got a question that I don't think I've ever seen here before.

I've made a hand lotion that our household really likes with Jojoba, FCO, RBO, Soy, Avocado, Shea Butter & Mango Butter. I toss in some fancy additives including panthenol and everything totaled comes to about $5USD for 500g. Not horrible, but a bit much.

Anyway, here's my question:

What's the absolute cheapest hand lotion you can make that's relatively good?

I was looking at my lotion formula figuring out how I could make it less expensively, but I don't have the expertise to try to build a cheap one from the bottom up.

This might catch other readers interest, too. One of the reasons I started out with all this is because I didn't like paying so much for lotion at the big box stores. Now the stuff I make rivals or exceeds the cost, and at least it's not been-eating-chicken-wings-a-la-Superbowl greasy.

HELP (and thanks). :-P

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Will! Cyclomethicone reduces greasiness and leaves a powdery after feeling. I use it at 2% in all my lotions for that reason. I love the dimethicone, but it can be a bit shiny. There are different weights, though, so changing to a higher or lower weight can affect the shiny-ness level. Which one did you use?

Hi Patrick. I did address the issue of using less expensive ingredients in products, but I don't think it's applicable here. I'm not sure how to help you reduce the costs on your hand lotion because you've already got a ton of less expensive (but awesome) ingredients in there!

Part of it is buying in larger amounts - for instance, I can pay $5.00 for 125 ml of fractionated coconut oil but $10 for a litre, which will reduce your costs if you're making a lot of products - and part of it is finding cheaper suppliers.

I'm not sure how to make a cheaper lotion given your ingredients - they're good ingredients that offer a lovely skin feel. My guess is that you're using less of it than the store bought stuff - I can make an 8 ounce bottle of hand lotion last 4 or 5 months because I don't need a lot of it to make my hands feel moisturized - and you're enjoying it more, so I'd say it's worth it.

I realize I've not been very helpful here, but you've given me food for thought and some ideas for future posts!

Will said...

Good morning Susan.

I used the 350 weight dimethicone. I think I'll probably try the cyclomethicone next.

The frustrating thing about trying to perfect a hand lotion is that if you try to use what you make like I do, the progress is frustratingly slow.

I have a friend Ginger/Neos that has provided invaluable mentoring but even she can't stop me from doing dumb stuff, lol. I guess that's part of learning.

Regarding Patrick's post below mine about the cheapest lotion, that made me wonder, what would be the cheapest one? Olive oil and glycerin with E-Wax maybe? I see big bottles of lotion at the dollar stores and never bothered to look at one of them - maybe I should for cheap inspiration.

Too bad there isn't the ingredient equivalent of a pricewatch.com out there for lotion/B&B makers :(

Thanks, Will

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan!

At the moment, I make an emulsifying system from glyceryl stearate (low HLB) and Stereath-21 (high HLB) and cetearyl alcohol. Do you think that substituting behentrimonium methosulfate for the steareth-21 will make for a noticeably less greasy feeling cream?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Anonymous. If you use BTMS, you'll get a less greasy lotion, and you won't need to use the other emulsifiers!

Nina said...

How can I make my lotion more emollient ?
I feel my lotion is not as emollient as Jergens or other commercial ones
If I increase oils and reduce water will it make it more emollient

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Nina! If you could share your recipe in percentages, it'd be easier to answer your question. I don't know what you're making and using, so I can't really make a suggestion.

Nina said...

Water. 288gms
Sodium lactate 8gms
Panthenol 4gmd
Glycerine 12gms
Cocoa butter 8gms
Coconut oil 32gms
Pola wax 16 gms
Cetyl alcohol 8 gms
Vit E. .4gms
Stearic acid 12 gms
Dimethocaine 8gms
Cyclo methocaine 8gms
Germall plus 2gms
Essential oils :/fragrance4gms
I hope Susan you could review my lotion and suggest making it more emollient on skin like the store brought Jergens etc
Waiting for your expert opinion

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Nina. As I say on the right hand side of every page: If you are writing to me for help on a recipe, please include your exact recipe in percentages and creation process. If you don't share this information, I can't provide help. I don't have time to do the back-and-forth thing asking you for information I need to help you, so include everything and be as specific as necessary.
Thanks!

Nina said...

Water heated phase

Water. 288gms
Sodium lactate 8gms
Panthenol 4gmd
Glycerine 12gms

Heated oil phase

Cocoa butter 8gms
Coconut oil 32gms
Pola wax 16 gms
Cetyl alcohol 8 gms
Vit E. .4gms
Stearic acid 12 gms
Dimethocaine 8gms
Cool down phase

Cyclo methocaine 8gms
Germall plus 2gms
Essential oils :/fragrance4gms
I hope Susan you could review my lotion and suggest making it more emollient on skin like the store brought Jergens etc
Waiting for your expert opinion

I did write my recepie earlier but now I have written ingreater detail

Nina said...

Water heated phase

Water. 288gms
Sodium lactate 8gms
Panthenol 4gmd
Glycerine 12gms

Heated oil phase

Cocoa butter 8gms
Coconut oil 32gms
Pola wax 16 gms
Cetyl alcohol 8 gms
Vit E. .4gms
Stearic acid 12 gms
Dimethocaine 8gms
Cool down phase

Cyclo methocaine 8gms
Germall plus 2gms
Essential oils :/fragrance4gms
I hope Susan you could review my lotion and suggest making it more emollient on skin like the store brought Jergens etc
Waiting for your expert opinion

Hope the detail is okay

Nina said...

Water. 288gms(heated water phase)
Sodium lactate 8gms
Panthenol 4gmd
Glycerine 12gms
(Heated oil phase)
Cocoa butter 8gms
Coconut oil 32gms
Pola wax 16 gms
Cetyl alcohol 8 gms
Vit E. .4gms
Stearic acid 12 gms
Dimethocaine 8gms
(Cool down phase)
Cyclo methocaine 8gms
Germall plus 2gms
Essential oils :/fragrance4gms
I hope Susan you could review my lotion and suggest making it more emollient on skin like the store brought Jergens etc
Waiting for your expert opinion
I have included more details