Thursday, January 27, 2011

Kukui nut: Anhydrous recipes

Kukui nut oil is kinda pricey - 30 ml was the same price as 1 litre of soy bean oil - so using at really high levels can be a very expensive proposition. I've been trying it at 20% in these products, which I think is a really nice level of usage. Add to the heated oil phase with the rest of your lovely oils in any product!

BODY OIL SPRAY WITH KUKUI NUT AND OTHER OILS
20% kukui nut
40% fractionated coconut oil
38% sesame seed oil
1% Vitamin E
1% fragrance oil

I've chosen fractionated coconut oil and sesame seed oil as both are considered non-staining to fabrics, while kukui nut oil is not. You could use all fractionated coconut oil for a very light feeling body spray or use all sesame seed oil for a slightly heavier body spray with more linoleic acid and phytosterols. I feel this combination offers the best of all worlds! I get the linoleic and oleic acids (the latter offers moisturizing and regenerating properties) as well as a silky dry feeling from the kukui nut. I get the additional dryness and silkiness from the fractionated coconut oil. And I get all the phytosterols (which behave as anti-inflammatories and can reduce itchiness), linoleic acid, and oleic acid from the sesame seed oil.

You know I love my esters, so I had tweak to my favourite body mister recipe with esters to include some kukui nut oil!

BODY OIL MISTER RECIPE WITH ESTERS & KUKUI NUT OIL
30% cetearyl ethylhexanoate
23% kukui nut oil
45% capric/caprylic triglycerides or fractionated coconut oil
1% to 2% fragrance oil

Get a spray bottle. Add all the ingredients. Use. Rejoice.

I substituted kukui nut oil for the C12-15 alkyl benzoate in this recipe as it will offer a lighter feeling with the same level of spreading. It feels absolutely lovely, and it adds so much needed linoleic oils to this recipe! This is a great choice for those winter months when you need the linoleic acid in the kukui nut oil to help with skin's barrier repair needs and preventing transepidermal water loss. (As a note, if you remove the C12-15 alkyl benzoate from the original recipe, you won't get the fragrance fixative part of the recipe, but that's not a bad thing! Your fragrance will stick around long enough as it is!)

As I need to get to Voyageur to buy more kukui oil, you'll have to wait until next week for more recipe ideas with this oil! Sorry! It's been a really busy week! 

2 comments:

sfs said...

I add kukui nut oil to the heated oil phase of my night cream without any apparent negative consequences. I suppose I could be destroying vitamins?

p said...

I'm confused about how you'd add a significant amount of oil (say 8% of the recipe) to the cool-down phase of an oil-in-water lotion. Wouldn't that mess up the emulsion?