Thursday, January 27, 2011

Kukui nut: Anhydrous recipes

Kukui nut oil is kinda pricey - 30 ml was the same price as 1 litre of soy bean oil - so using at really high levels can be a very expensive proposition. I've been trying it at 20% in these products, which I think is a really nice level of usage. Add to the heated oil phase with the rest of your lovely oils in any product!

20% kukui nut
40% fractionated coconut oil
38% sesame seed oil
1% Vitamin E
1% fragrance oil

I've chosen fractionated coconut oil and sesame seed oil as both are considered non-staining to fabrics, while kukui nut oil is not. You could use all fractionated coconut oil for a very light feeling body spray or use all sesame seed oil for a slightly heavier body spray with more linoleic acid and phytosterols. I feel this combination offers the best of all worlds! I get the linoleic and oleic acids (the latter offers moisturizing and regenerating properties) as well as a silky dry feeling from the kukui nut. I get the additional dryness and silkiness from the fractionated coconut oil. And I get all the phytosterols (which behave as anti-inflammatories and can reduce itchiness), linoleic acid, and oleic acid from the sesame seed oil.

You know I love my esters, so I had tweak to my favourite body mister recipe with esters to include some kukui nut oil!

30% cetearyl ethylhexanoate
23% kukui nut oil
45% capric/caprylic triglycerides or fractionated coconut oil
1% to 2% fragrance oil

Get a spray bottle. Add all the ingredients. Use. Rejoice.

I substituted kukui nut oil for the C12-15 alkyl benzoate in this recipe as it will offer a lighter feeling with the same level of spreading. It feels absolutely lovely, and it adds so much needed linoleic oils to this recipe! This is a great choice for those winter months when you need the linoleic acid in the kukui nut oil to help with skin's barrier repair needs and preventing transepidermal water loss. (As a note, if you remove the C12-15 alkyl benzoate from the original recipe, you won't get the fragrance fixative part of the recipe, but that's not a bad thing! Your fragrance will stick around long enough as it is!)

As I need to get to Voyageur to buy more kukui oil, you'll have to wait until next week for more recipe ideas with this oil! Sorry! It's been a really busy week! 


sfs said...

I add kukui nut oil to the heated oil phase of my night cream without any apparent negative consequences. I suppose I could be destroying vitamins?

p said...

I'm confused about how you'd add a significant amount of oil (say 8% of the recipe) to the cool-down phase of an oil-in-water lotion. Wouldn't that mess up the emulsion?