Saturday, January 8, 2011

Iron Chemist results: SCI

Last Sunday, my lovely husband chose SCI as the ingredient for this week's Iron Chemist! And here are the results!

50% SCI
33% SLSa
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
3% cocamide DEA
2% glycol distearate
2% fragrance oil

Weigh the SCI and cocamidopropyl betaine in a heatproof container and place into the double boiler. Weigh the cocamide DEA and glycol distearate in a heatproof container and place into the double boiler. Heat both until they are melted. Mix together, and add the SLSa slowly, so you aren't kicking up a lot of dust! Heat until they are nicely melted together and mix well. Add the 2% fragrance oil, then glop into moulds and put in the fridge or freezer. When hardened, remove.

As a note, I was going for a bubble bar here, and it works well in that capacity, but some it will end up floating around in the bath and you'll have to crumble up the last of it with your fingers if you want it to disintegrate completely. The bubbles come fast and furious and last quite some time, but I wouldn't want to call it a bath product if it won't completely dissolve. It's a very hard product, but the bubbles are fairly amazing!

I have been enjoying this body bar in the shower all week. It's very creamy feeling and doesn't make my skin feel dry or tight afterwards. When I make it again - and I will - I'll add some cationic polymer to the mix (3% polyquat 7 or honeyquat) and a humectant (glycerin at 3%) and reduce the SLSa by 6% to make it more body friendly. I didn't put those in the original recipe as I was going for a bubble bar, and I didn't want any humectants to draw water to the product while it sat in the workshop or a plastic bag!

If you're thinking that a syndet body bar is weird, that's what Dove is! It's a syndet bar with "1/4 moisturizing" included. I didn't get to the 25% moisturizing part, but I will next time!

32% SCI
17.4% cocamidopropyl betaine
4.5% cocamide DEA
8.7% polyglucose/lactylate blend
8.7% glycerin
4.5% Cromollient SCE

2.5% glycol distearate
4.5% cetyl alcohol
8.7% soy bean oil

2.6% myristamine oxide
4.4% polyquat 7
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance oil

Weigh the heated surfactant phase into a heatproof container and put into the double boiler. Melt until it is kinda liquidy but mixes well. Also weigh the heated oil phase into a heatproof container and put into the double boiler. Melt until it is liquid.

Add the two phases together and mix well. You can add the myristamine oxide and polyquat 7 at any point, but wait until you reach 45˚C before adding the fragrance and preservative.

Mix this very well with a hand mixer - beaters, not whisks! - until it is fluffy. Add some exfoliants if you want.

I call this a possibly foaming bath butter because I have no idea what that product feels like, but that's what it seems like to me. It's foamy and fluffy and feels very nice on my skin when I've used it in the shower. If you don't have the Cromollient SCE or myristamine oxide, don't worry - you can use some other water soluble esters, if you want, or increase your liquid surfactant amount.

In case you're curious about the weird amounts in this recipe, it's because I started off making one recipe, then changed it when I realized it was hardening far too fast, so I had to re-calculate the amounts to make them add up to 100%. 

Here are a few of my favourite recipes using SCI (but not created this week!)
Conditioning shampoo for dry hair
Conditioning shampoo for normal to oily hair
Solid shampoo bars for all hair types (visual tutorial)
Shampoo bars for dry hair
Shampoo bars for oily hair
Body wash with polyglucose/lactylate blend & salicylic acid
Body wash with SCI
Creamy, moisturizing body wash with SCI and esters
Creamy facial cleanser for dry skin
Creamy facial cleanser for normal skin

Join me tomorrow as our chairman chooses the third Iron Chemist ingredient!


Tara said...

I think I am going to try making more syndet bars. I have in the past made CP soap, but I don't enjoy making it anymore, what with all the cleanup and set up process. Plus, they leave the scum in the bathtub from the hard water.

The bath butter sounds like a fun idea as well!

Anonymous said...

Syndet Body Bar or Bubble Bar? I'm confused. Is this a body bar that creates a bubbly shower or bath or is it used in the tub to create a bubble bath by running it under water? Both my Shampoo Bar and Conditioner Bar (circular disks) broke in half after using it was a short while. Any suggestions? Also, what about adding Stearic Acid to this Syndet Body Bar since it has such an affinity for SCI? Thanks!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Tara! I enjoy the syndet bar making - it's more expensive than making soap, but I don't make soap, so it's all I can do!

Hi Anonymous! I set out to make a bubble bar that would make a bubbly bath by running it under the water, but it turns out it works as a body bar better. (I didn't like that it didn't completely dissolve as a bubble bath, but it works well for that purpose, too!)

If your bars are breaking, you can use stearic acid or sodium lactate to harden them. I found that changing the shape of the product worked for me - I went from a circular shape to a domed shape and they last a lot longer!

Topcat said...

I love the sound of your 'possibly foaming bath butter' recipe. I may just have to try that one for myself ~ thanks Susan :)

kerzuke said...

Hello Susan! I know this is an old post but i hope you still answer me. I have a lot of SLS needles. have you worked with those? I use them in shampoo bars, but i want to use them somewehere else too.

I first wanted to make foaming bath butter with this recipe:

But it didint come out as i wanted. It collapsed easily and wasnt creamy and was hard to take out of the jar. I liked this recipe better with SCI. That i loved :D

I wonder if i can substitude SCI with SLS in your recipe? As it dont have water maybe it would work out better than the other recipe (i used there water also).

Or maybe you can suggest me how could i create foaming bath butter using SLS and have a similar results as with SCI.

Thank you!

Winnie Stekelenburg said...

Hi Susan,
Beside my already made shampoobar and conditioner-bar, for my holiday I would like to make a facial cleansing bar.
I was thinking I could use your recipe for a syndet body bar for that but I am not sure. What do you think? Are there ingredients I should definately leave out when I make it a facial-cleansing-bar? And are there ingredients of which you say: 'these are great to put in'?
Thank you for your answer already!
Bye for now, Winnie

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Winnie. Check out the facial cleanser posts and see what I use that you could use, too. This one has loads of details as does this recipe, which I love.

Erica said...

Hi Susan,

I tried the Syndet Bar recipe and the ingredients never fully melted into each other. It was very stiff and hard to mix together. I used the exact recipe that you listed. Any idea why this may have happened?

Wendy Gaechter said...

Susan, did you ever post a recipe for the moisturizing syndet bar you mention above?

Winnie Stekelenburg said...

Last year I made a facial cleansing bar. My bar was based on the SYNDET BODY BAR-recipe. Of course I made a few adaption bur dasly I did not write them down. I càn however say the bar turned out pretty well. I wouldn't mind it being a bit harder but overall I like it. It cleanses and doesn't make my eyes sting.
Because I didn't write down the recipe I can only guess what I put in the bar. I van imagine I put in Aloë Vera and panthenol.
Next time I make one, I will write down the recipe and if I like the bar I will share the recipe!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Winnie! I love syndet bars, too! But rememer to write thigns down!

Winnie Stekelenburg said...

I found the recipe for the facial clearing bar, whiehoe :-) Here it is:
30% sci
28% slsa
4% sanfteen
15% glyceryl tenside
3% cetyl alcohol
2% stearic acid
3% btms
8% cacaobutter or kokumbutter
3,5% hydrolyzed prot. (this van be 2 different sort of prot)
2% panthenol
0,5% fragrance
1% preservative

Next time I will try to make it harder as it was too soft. If you have tips for that I would like to hear them.
Oh and btw, good to hear your health is getting better!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI Winnie! That sanfteen or sucrose cocoate sounds like it would be a great addition to the product! I'd like to get some of that!) I'm afraid I don't know what glyceryl tenside might be. I looked it up, but couldn't find it. Is there another name or an English name?

I have a feeling that you are using the SCI granules instead of noodles? The reason I say this is because the granules don't contain extra fatty acids, which make the bar more solid. You can increase the stearic acid a bit more or add some sodium lactate at up to 3%.

If you can let me know the answers to those questions, I might be able to be more helpful!

Winnie Stekelenburg said...

Thank you for your quick reply Susan!
Glyceryl tenside is not what I use, I was wrong. It should be glycinetenside which is Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate.
The SCI I used was powder:INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Winnie! If you're using the powder, you can add more butter or more stearic acid to see if it hardens. Sodium lactate at up to 5% is a great addition if you don't want to add more oils to your hair. (I have really oily hair and the fatty acids or butters are not my friend!) And, let it sit out on a counter for a while so the water in the bar can evaporate. This is a great way to harden a bar without making much effort.

Please let me know how it turns out!

Maria said...

I made a similar bar -- subbed in stearic acid and BTMS for the emulsifiers you used (I didn't have either one of the ones you mentioned.) I'm pretty sure my SCI doesn't have stearic acid (call into the company for verification, but their initial response was that they didn't believe it did), so I wanted to add stearic acid. I took out a little of the SLSa and put in DLS mild instead. The bar is very hard (and was hardening so fast as I put it in my silicone mold, I had to hurry!). Oh--I also added glycerin. I think I'd like it to be a bit more moisturizing so next time I will probably add shea butter or maybe cocoa butter. The bar DEFINITELY bubbles and cleans well. I'm tempted to take out more of teh SLSa because I have dry skin, but with that many surfactants in there, it might not matter!

Thanks for the recipe that got me started!


Maria said...

Made these again--took out the dls and upped the stearic and kept the glycerin at 3 percent. I LOVE these bars but they cost a fortune to make. I think the ingredients make these about 2 dollars per bar! I wish they cost less because I like them even been than the lye soap I make! I don't think I can tweak them enough to make them very cheap!