DUPLICATING THE HAND PROTECTOR
I've had a few people ask about duplicating Body Shop's Hemp Hand Protector and thought I'd try tit out this week. I'll admit it was a little ambitious considering I've never tried the product myself, but I've read what it's supposed to feel like, so I thought I'd give it a go.
Ingredient list: Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Myristate, Hemp Seed Oil, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, PEG-100 Stearate, Beeswax, Lanolin, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Evernia Furfuracea (Treemoss) Extract, Limonene, Citronellol, Talc, Geraniol, Linalool, Citral, Chromium Oxide Greens, Iron Oxides.
There's a ton of stuff left out if you compare this ingredient list from the Canadian site to the American site. Huh? The American one lists far more ingredients including castor and camellia seed oil, carnauba wax, tocopherol, citric acid, potassium sorbate, and many many more. I wonder which is really different, the ingredient list or the actual ingredients? And the British site appears to have a little from each! What's going on here?
In my humble opinion, the key ingredients in here are the water, glycerin, cetearyl alcohol, emollients, beeswax, emulsifier, allantoin, and preservative. The xanthan gum is a thickener, which I'm leaving out; the disodium EDTA is a chelating ingredient, and the rest are all fragrance or colours and I don't care about those at the moment.
I know this product is supposed to stay on after washing, so I think leaving the cetearyl alcohol and beeswax will help that because they tend to be waxy feeling. I don't have any myristyl myristate, so I went with cetearyl ethylhexanoate (another ester) and kept in the C12-15 alkyl benzoate because I wanted it to have that not so greasy feeling. I went with Polawax as my emulsifier, although BTMS would have been a good choice as well. (Oh shoot, I didn't see the lanolin in this recipe until just now! I'll have to tweak it to include it next time.) I used glycerin, propylene glycol, and panthenol as my humectants to offer more moisturizing without greasiness.
I wanted to use rice bran oil instead of hemp seed oil because it has a longer shelf life and that's the challenge this week, and I included the dimethicone and allantoin as occlusive ingredients.
You'll notice I added some IPM to this recipe - I really felt it needed to be less greasy - and I have my fragrance oil at 0.5%. This is for two reasons. One, because I'm giving this to my husband and his manly friends and they won't want something overly fragranced. And two, because I'm using C12-15 alkyl benzoate, which is a fragrance fixative, and I have found when using this I need to reduce my fragrance amount because it'll stick around for a long long time! (And it does! I could smell the cedar & saffron on my hands hours later!)
As this is meant to be a very thick and rich cream that doesn't feel greasy, I figured I'd use about a 50% to 60% water phase and a 40% or more oil phase. So here's the result!
RICE BRAN OIL BASED HAND PROTECTOR CREAM
HEATED WATER PHASE
2% propylene glycol
HEATED OIL PHASE
3% cetearyl alcohol
8% cetearyl ethylhexanoate
10% rice bran oil
10% C12-15 alkyl benzoate
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% - 1% preservative (I use liquid Germall Plus)
Follow the normal lotion making instructions for this recipe. This recipe makes about 250 ml if you multiply it by 3 (8 ounce bottle), so if you make the recipe at this amount you'll get about 80 ml (or 1/3 cup).
So what do we think? I think it's a very thick lotion that feels slightly greasy going on your hands but soon dries to a more powdery feeling. I don't think it stayed on after washing my hands, but it did feel like it was still on my hands two hours after application when I didn't wash my hands. I'm not the biggest fan of cetearyl alcohol in this recipe - I know I was going for a waxier feeling lotion that would stay on my hands, but I think it could be slightly too waxy for my personal preferences, although my husband liked it and reported that he felt it stayed on his hands after washing.
When I make this again, I think I'll add some cyclomethicone to increase the feeling of silky powderiness a little (2% in the cool down phase) and remove 2% of some oil to make up for that change. I think I'll add some aloe vera because I always like more soothing goodness for trashed hands. If you want to make this recipe and leave things out, feel free to substitute the various emollients for other oils, but bear in mind that it will change the skin feel. And feel free to substitute the cetearyl alcohol for either stearic or cetyl alcohol. If you keep all the ingredients relatively the same - that is to say, you keep the silicones and esters - then I'd go with stearic to make a tenacious cream.
DUPLICATING THE YUZU & RICE BODY MILK
Another product I've been asked about a lot lately is the new spa wisdom™ japan yuzu & rice body milk from the Body Shop, so I thought I'd try making my own version of a sprayable lotion.
Here's the ingredient list: Water (Solvent/Diluent), Ethylhexyl Palmitate (Skin Conditioning Agent), Glycerin (Humectant), Cyclomethicone (Emollient), Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil (Emollient), Glyceryl Stearate (Emulsifier), PEG-100 Stearate (Surfactant), Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil (Skin-Conditioning Agent), Fragrance (Fragrance), Dimethicone (Skin Conditioning Agent), PEG-40 Stearate (Emulsifier), Phenethyl Alcohol (Fragrance Ingredient), Caprylyl Glycol (Skin Conditioning Agent), Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil (Skin-Conditioning Agent), Propylene Glycol (Humectant), Cetearyl Alcohol (Emulsifier), Butylene Glycol (Humectant), Linalool (Fragrance Ingredient), Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Stabiliser/Viscosity Modifier), Xanthan Gum (Viscosity Modifier), Disodium EDTA (Chelating Agent), Sodium Carbomer (Emulsion Stabiliser), Sodium Hydroxide (pH Adjuster), Citronellol (Fragrance Ingredient), Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract (Hair Conditioning Agent), Sorbitol (Humectant), Citral (Fragrance Ingredient), Citrus Junos Peel Extract (Skin Condtioning Agent), Tocopherol (Antioxidant).
Again, I picked out what I think are the key ingredients - water, emollients, humectants, emulsifier, preservative, anti-oxidant, and fragrance - and tried as best as I could to use the same or similar ingredients, with the exception of adding the rice bran oil. But I couldn't. There were things I wanted to include in a sprayable lotion that aren't in this recipe, so I used this as a template but went on my own merry way!
I decided I needed some extra stuff, so I included lavender hydrosol for its great properties of soothing wind or weather chapped skin and the anti-irritation properties. (You could use lavender essential oil in this but I really can't stand the smell of it on my skin in leave-in products, so I go with the hydrosol every time). I added allantoin at 0.5% and dimethicone at 2% as barrier ingredients. I wanted a humectant in there, so I tried this new one I've been testing - Zemea - at 3% (which, as a point of interest, is considered all-natural and is Ecocert certified). You could use any humectant you like in place of it. And I included Phytokeratin as a protein because for some reason I thought it contained rice when I was in the workshop, but it doesn't.
In the oil phase, I went with rice bran oil - because that's the challenge, after all - and included the ethylhexyl palmitate and babassu oil found in the original. I used Polawax as my emulsifier after debating including BTMS-50. (I decided not to as I didn't want it to be too dry feeling.)
In my cool down phase, I included cyclomethicone to give it a drier but glidy feel and Vitamin E as my anti-oxidant. I included honeyquat as a humectant and skin conditioner as well.
So what did I create?
SPRAYABLE BODY MILK WITH RICE BRAN OIL
HEATED WATER PHASE
20% lavender hydrosol
3% Zemea (humectant)
HEATED OIL PHASE
5% rice bran oil
5% ethyhexyl palmitate
5% babassu oil
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% Vitamin E
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
Use the general lotion making instructions for this recipe. I doubled the recipe and got 250 ml (8 ounces) of product.
What do I think of this product? I really like it. It has a nice consistency - it's sprayable and but it doesn't feel too thin - and it makes my skin feel very moisturized. I don't think I'd alter any part of this recipe as it has both the dry feeling from the babassu oil, ester, and cyclomethicone but a little greasiness from the rice bran and dimethicone. If you want to make this recipe and don't have the ethylhexyl palmitate, feel free to use another ester you like or another oil, but try to make it a light, drier feeling oil like hazelnut, evening primrose, borage, or camellia seed oils, for instance.
I realize I got the "rice" part of the name in there - the rice bran oil - but I didn't get the Yuzu part. I do have Yuzu fragrance, which is very nice, but I really prefer to smell like cupcakes!
Join me tomorrow to set off on another Iron Chemist challenge!