Saturday, January 22, 2011

Iron Chemist results: Rice bran oil

Another week, another Iron Chemist challenge!. I love rice bran oil and use it by the bucketload in so many products I make, so it was hard to create two products in which I could use it in a different way. I chose to add to the challenge this week and attempt to duplicate two products from the Body Shop that people have asked me about - the Body Shop's Hemp Hand Protector and the Body Shop's new spa wisdom™ japan yuzu & rice body milk.

I've had a few people ask about duplicating Body Shop's Hemp Hand Protector and thought I'd try tit out this week. I'll admit it was a little ambitious considering I've never tried the product myself, but I've read what it's supposed to feel like, so I thought I'd give it a go.

Ingredient list: Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Myristate, Hemp Seed Oil, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, PEG-100 Stearate, Beeswax, Lanolin, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Evernia Furfuracea (Treemoss) Extract, Limonene, Citronellol, Talc, Geraniol, Linalool, Citral, Chromium Oxide Greens, Iron Oxides.

There's a ton of stuff left out if you compare this ingredient list from the Canadian site to the American site. Huh? The American one lists far more ingredients including castor and camellia seed oil, carnauba wax, tocopherol, citric acid, potassium sorbate, and many many more. I wonder which is really different, the ingredient list or the actual ingredients? And the British site appears to have a little from each! What's going on here?

In my humble opinion, the key ingredients in here are the water, glycerin, cetearyl alcohol, emollients, beeswax, emulsifier, allantoin, and preservative. The xanthan gum is a thickener, which I'm leaving out; the disodium EDTA is a chelating ingredient, and the rest are all fragrance or colours and I don't care about those at the moment. 

I know this product is supposed to stay on after washing, so I think leaving the cetearyl alcohol and beeswax will help that because they tend to be waxy feeling. I don't have any myristyl myristate, so I went with cetearyl ethylhexanoate (another ester) and kept in the C12-15 alkyl benzoate because I wanted it to have that not so greasy feeling. I went with Polawax as my emulsifier, although BTMS would have been a good choice as well. (Oh shoot, I didn't see the lanolin in this recipe until just now! I'll have to tweak it to include it next time.) I used glycerin, propylene glycol, and panthenol as my humectants to offer more moisturizing without greasiness. 

I wanted to use rice bran oil instead of hemp seed oil because it has a longer shelf life and that's the challenge this week, and I included the dimethicone and allantoin as occlusive ingredients. 

You'll notice I added some IPM to this recipe - I really felt it needed to be less greasy - and I have my fragrance oil at 0.5%. This is for two reasons. One, because I'm giving this to my husband and his manly friends and they won't want something overly fragranced. And two, because I'm using C12-15 alkyl benzoate, which is a fragrance fixative, and I have found when using this I need to reduce my fragrance amount because it'll stick around for a long long time! (And it does! I could smell the cedar & saffron on my hands hours later!) 

As this is meant to be a very thick and rich cream that doesn't feel greasy, I figured I'd use about a 50% to 60% water phase and a 40% or more oil phase. So here's the result! 

47% water
3% glycerin
2% propylene glycol
0.5% allantoin

7% Polawax
3% cetearyl alcohol
8% cetearyl ethylhexanoate
10% rice bran oil
10% C12-15 alkyl benzoate
2% beeswax 
2% IPM

2% dimethicone
2% panthenol
0.5% fragrance
0.5% - 1% preservative (I use liquid Germall Plus)

Follow the normal lotion making instructions for this recipe. This recipe makes about 250 ml if you multiply it by 3 (8 ounce bottle), so if you make the recipe at this amount you'll get about 80 ml (or 1/3 cup). 

So what do we think? I think it's a very thick lotion that feels slightly greasy going on your hands but soon dries to a more powdery feeling. I don't think it stayed on after washing my hands, but it did feel like it was still on my hands two hours after application when I didn't wash my hands. I'm not the biggest fan of cetearyl alcohol in this recipe - I know I was going for a waxier feeling lotion that would stay on my hands, but I think it could be slightly too waxy for my personal preferences, although my husband liked it and reported that he felt it stayed on his hands after washing. 

When I make this again, I think I'll add some cyclomethicone to increase the feeling of silky powderiness a little (2% in the cool down phase) and remove 2% of some oil to make up for that change. I think I'll add some aloe vera because I always like more soothing goodness for trashed hands. If you want to make this recipe and leave things out, feel free to substitute the various emollients for other oils, but bear in mind that it will change the skin feel. And feel free to substitute the cetearyl alcohol for either stearic or cetyl alcohol. If you keep all the ingredients relatively the same - that is to say, you keep the silicones and esters - then I'd go with stearic to make a tenacious cream.

Another product I've been asked about a lot lately is the new spa wisdom™ japan yuzu & rice body milk from the Body Shop, so I thought I'd try making my own version of a sprayable lotion. 

Here's the ingredient list: Water (Solvent/Diluent), Ethylhexyl Palmitate (Skin Conditioning Agent), Glycerin (Humectant), Cyclomethicone (Emollient), Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil (Emollient), Glyceryl Stearate (Emulsifier), PEG-100 Stearate (Surfactant), Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil (Skin-Conditioning Agent), Fragrance (Fragrance), Dimethicone (Skin Conditioning Agent), PEG-40 Stearate (Emulsifier), Phenethyl Alcohol (Fragrance Ingredient), Caprylyl Glycol (Skin Conditioning Agent), Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil (Skin-Conditioning Agent), Propylene Glycol (Humectant), Cetearyl Alcohol (Emulsifier), Butylene Glycol (Humectant), Linalool (Fragrance Ingredient), Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Stabiliser/Viscosity Modifier), Xanthan Gum (Viscosity Modifier), Disodium EDTA (Chelating Agent), Sodium Carbomer (Emulsion Stabiliser), Sodium Hydroxide (pH Adjuster), Citronellol (Fragrance Ingredient), Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract (Hair Conditioning Agent), Sorbitol (Humectant), Citral (Fragrance Ingredient), Citrus Junos Peel Extract (Skin Condtioning Agent), Tocopherol (Antioxidant).

Again, I picked out what I think are the key ingredients - water, emollients, humectants, emulsifier, preservative, anti-oxidant, and fragrance - and tried as best as I could to use the same or similar ingredients, with the exception of adding the rice bran oil. But I couldn't. There were things I wanted to include in a sprayable lotion that aren't in this recipe, so I used this as a template but went on my own merry way! 

I decided I needed some extra stuff, so I included lavender hydrosol for its great properties of soothing wind or weather chapped skin and the anti-irritation properties. (You could use lavender essential oil in this but I really can't stand the smell of it on my skin in leave-in products, so I go with the hydrosol every time). I added allantoin at 0.5% and dimethicone at 2% as barrier ingredients. I wanted a humectant in there, so I tried this new one I've been testing - Zemea - at 3% (which, as a point of interest, is considered all-natural and is Ecocert certified). You could use any humectant you like in place of it. And I included Phytokeratin as a protein because for some reason I thought it contained rice when I was in the workshop, but it doesn't. 

In the oil phase, I went with rice bran oil - because that's the challenge, after all - and included the ethylhexyl palmitate and babassu oil found in the original. I used Polawax as my emulsifier after debating including BTMS-50. (I decided not to as I didn't want it to be too dry feeling.) 

In my cool down phase, I included cyclomethicone to give it a drier but glidy feel and Vitamin E as my anti-oxidant. I included honeyquat as a humectant and skin conditioner as well. 

So what did I create?

48.5% water
20% lavender hydrosol
0.5% allantoin
3% Zemea (humectant)

5% rice bran oil
5% ethyhexyl palmitate
5% babassu oil
5% Polawax

2% honeyquat
2% dimethicone
2% cyclomethicone
0.5% Vitamin E 
1% fragrance
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Use the general lotion making instructions for this recipe. I doubled the recipe and got 250 ml (8 ounces) of product. 

What do I think of this product? I really like it. It has a nice consistency - it's sprayable and but it doesn't feel too thin - and it makes my skin feel very moisturized. I don't think I'd alter any part of this recipe as it has both the dry feeling from the babassu oil, ester, and cyclomethicone but a little greasiness from the rice bran and dimethicone. If you want to make this recipe and don't have the ethylhexyl palmitate, feel free to use another ester you like or another oil, but try to make it a light, drier feeling oil like hazelnut, evening primrose, borage, or camellia seed oils, for instance. 

I realize I got the "rice" part of the name in there - the rice bran oil - but I didn't get the Yuzu part. I do have Yuzu fragrance, which is very nice, but I really prefer to smell like cupcakes! 

Join me tomorrow to set off on another Iron Chemist challenge! 


Anonymous said...

Hi I don't know if you see this but well this is my question...I want to make a sprayable lotion but I can't get all the ingrediant you have but this is what I have, distille water,aloe vera liquid,some extract like oat extract and avocado extract,I have coco butter,shea butter,avocado butter and mango butter, the only oils I can find is avocado oil,coconut oil,olive oil so can I make a sprayable lotion with this and I got cycloMethicone because I saw a post from you so I found it at bramble berry and I also ordered clementine cupcake because I know you like it and I do also :) hope you or someone can help

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Anonymous. This blog is all about teaching you to how to formulate products, so I'm going to refer you to the formulating series I did last year to help you come up with your lotion if you don't want to use a previously formulated version. You can find the formulating series here - click "newer post" at the end of each post to see the next one. Find a light lotion recipe in that series and use what you have to make your product!

You can make this recipe - just substitute the oils you have for the ones I use and see what happens. Do you have an emulsifier? You can't make a product without it, and I don't see it in your list.

Read this post - can I substitute oils I have? - for more information. And I recommend you check out the FAQ (look to your right!) for more questions!

Have fun formulating!

Anonymous said...

Thank you answering and of course I have Polawax and steric acid :)


Anonymous said...

Ohh and preservation ;) I found more to read so I think I am good ;) thank you so much for this blog I have learnt so much :) I love making my own lotion for myself and my family, it is so much fun trying new oils and butters ;) love it and if it were not for you I would never had tried it :) thanks

ceeQueen said...

Love your blog and your books! I am wondering if there is a way to modify the recipes that include either or both of cyclomethicone and dimethicone. I prefer not to include those ingredients, and don’t know if there are substitutes OR if they can just be left out entirely. Thanks for your help.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Check out the posts on silicone alternatives, listed in the ingredients links to lists on the right hand side of the blog.

Lynae said...

I have made several variations of this hand protector for my cousin who is a dog walker and you can imagine what that does to her hands in the winter!

I did do some modifications. I lowered the heated oil phase to 27% as I've learned from trying your recipes that I like everything less oily than you do. I like the behenyl alcohol variation you did in another post a bit better than the cetearyl. I have tried it with both ewax and with ecomulse and preferred the latter.

Even with the lowered oil phase, this was still a seriously protective and emollient cream -- it would be overpowering as a hand cream at the office, definitely something hardcore protective to smear on before going out and facing the elements.

In her favorite variation of this recipe, I added 2% lanolin and she said that really "made" it -- it gave it enough umph to last through hand sanitizer and mittens and dog tongues

Joyce Bonner said...

Hi Susan, thanks again for all of your time, energy and talents you share with us, it is so greatly appreciated. Question for today: if I wanted to add Hemp seed butter, babassu oi and hemp oil (shelf life of 1 yr fr Brambleberry) would I need to increase the polowax/or BTMS or do I need another emulsifier? How much lanolin would you add? Do I need both lanolin and beeswax? I used this cream all the time and want to come as close to it as I can. Thanks again for all you do.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Joyce! Thank you for your kind words! It's nice to know the work is appreciated!

Sure, you can modify this recipe with any oils and butters you like. Just don't go over the 37% oils and butter part of the recipe and you don't need to modify the emulsifier unless you're using someting other than Polawax.

Add whatever amount of lanolin you want, just don't go over that 37% amount. (I can't stress this enough!) I think the things essential to replicating that recipe is the beeswax and cetearyl alcohol to give it the waxy feeling. If you leave those out, you aren't going to get that same sensation. When you change ingredients, you change the skin feel. If you leave out the beeswax, cetearyl alcohol, esters, dimethicone, and IPM, you aren't going to get the same skin feel I have produced with this recipe. If you are using lanolin, hemp seed butter, hemp seed oil, you will get a much greasier, thinner product than the one I have made. If you change to using BTMS0-50, you'll have a more powdery, dry feeling for this product. Babassu oil is amazing stuff - I think I may be addicted to it - but using it will confer a more dry, less greasy feeling. Make all the changes you want, but it won't feel the same.

As a note, I wouldn't trust that hemp seed oil has a shelf life of a year. I would suggest that it is more like 3 months to 6 months depending upon how refined it is. You definitely need an anti-oxidant like Vitamin E in this product to ensure you get a decent life out of it, or just make sure you use it in three months.

If you make this, please come back and let us know how you modified it and what you thought.

Kirsten Thomas. said...

Hey Swift,
Have you tried phenethyl alcohol yet? I know it is listed as a fragrance supporting ingredient, but it also apparently has a slight scent of roses? Also heard it is being used as part of a preservation system. I have a recipe that includes it with phytocide. I haven't used it yet, because I wondered about the smell, and whether or not I could give up my liquid germall, lol... just wondered what your thoughts were on it.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Kirsten! No, I haven't tried it yet. I have a bunch of new preservatives I'll be trying over the autumn in my new incubator, so I'll have some results by Christmas, I hope. I'll have to get some Phytocide!