Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Experiments in the workshop: Min-maxed toner becomes a facial gel

The weather outside here is frightful, and I need something more than my toner to protect my skin right now. An oil filled moisturizer isn't an option at the moment as I'm having some fun new break outs on my face, so I thought I'd try making my min-maxed toner into a gel using Amaze XT. (Sorry this picture isn't in a bottle, but it's about -3˚C or 26.6 F in my workshop right now and that's where the bottles and funnels are located. I like the cold, but not that cold!)

I modified the recipe to remove the witch hazel as I'm not a fan of it in my leave on facial products, and I left out the salicylic acid or white willow bark because I'm out of both. (I would have happily included it if I had it!) You'll notice this recipe is in grams - it totals 90 grams because apparently math isn't my strong suit this week! Because the thickening is essential to the recipe, I don't want to modify it to equal 100%, so if you want to double or triple the batch, use the recipe as listed below.

15 grams water
20 grams lavender hydrosol
20 grams chamomile hydrosol
10 grams aloe vera
2 grams sodium lactate
2 grams hydrolyzed protein
0.5 grams allantoin
1.5 grams Amaze XT

3 grams honeyquat
5 grams Multifruit BSC
2 grams panthenol
5 grams liquid green tea extract
3 grams Caprol Micro Express or another water soluble oil or ester
0.4 grams liquid Germall Plus

Weigh all the heated phase into a heatproof container and heat until it reaches 60˚C. Hold for about 20 minutes, then add the Amaze XT and remove from the heat. Mix really well until incorporated. Wait until the mixture reaches 45 ˚C to 50˚C, then add the cool down phase. Again, mix really well until incorporated. Yay! You have a gelled toner!

Amaze XT is a form of xanthan gum and you could use that in this recipe, but it will feel a bit stickier. (Click here for some information on gelling ingredients.) You can use carbomer or xanthan gum or your favourite gelling agent for a product of this nature to make the gel.

You can leave out all the hydrosols if you want and use water in their place, and you can include any extracts you like. The key is that you can't use paraben based preservatives with Amaze XT, so make sure you've chosen your preservative wisely!

I really like this product! I've used it two days in a row and it doesn't feel sticky on my skin, but I feel moisturized. You don't want to put a thick layer on your face as it will come off when you rub it, and a thin layer is all you need. Yay! A gelled oil free moisturizer for me in this very cold weather time!


Anonymous said...

This is great! Do you know who makes Amaze XT? I saw Lotion Crafters has a new cosmetic grade xanthan, wondering how it compares. Herbarie has UltraMaize. Not sure how this compares.

Any suggestions for honeyquat replacement or an ester since I don't have those few ingredients. If you also know of a grams to % calculator online do share! :) Thanks much!

Katherine said...

The Herbarie has a product called Extaordinary XG that I think is equivalent to Amaze XT. It's INCI is Dehydroxanthan Gum.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Suppliers regularly change the names of the ingredients to suit their philosophy or product line, which is one of the reasons I always include the INCI of the ingredient when it's not obvious, and why I suggest learning the INCI names of the ingredients you use. You'll find Amaze XT at Voyageur as Amaze XT, but you'll find it elsewhere as another name (for instance, at the Herbarie. Thanks for the information, Katherine!)

You can use any cationic polymer you like for the honeyquat - for instance, polyquat 7 - or a humectant, like glycerin or Hydrovance. I used honeyquat as it's a two-for-one ingredient being both a humectant and conditioning agent.

As for esters, there really aren't any substitutes for water soluble oils because there's no emulsifier in this product. You can leave it out - I use it as an emollient ingredient, but it's not essential to the chemistry of the product.

I've written a post on how to calculate percentages for lotions as I'm a firm believer in learning how to do it ourselves, but I'd suggest just trying the recipe the way it's written because of the viscosity issues with Amaze XT. If you want to make a double or triple batch, then just multiply the numbers by 2 or 3 and you'll get a larger amount.

Anonymous said...

Thanks ladies! Lotion crafter has a new xanthan also I just received, appears less stringy then others.

Will said...

Sort of related question...

What exactly is a toner? Is it like
Seabreeze or 10-0-6?

Thanks, Will

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Will. Yep, a toner is something that is generally advertised as toning your skin, doing something with the ph of it, and making your skin feel nicer after cleansing. Toners generally contain an astringent like witch hazel or alcohol to give you that recently washed feeling.

I use my toners differently. I use my toners to remove any surfactant residue I might have missed after rinsing (I usually take about 5 minutes to get ready in the morning as I'm always running late!) and to add some nice moisturizing to my oily skin, rather than using a moisturizer! I use it to soothe my skin with things like lavender and chamomile hydrosols (anti-inflammatories) and leave behind some emolliency (proteins, panthenol, humectants, and now my water soluble oils). I think of them as water based moisturizers!