Sunday, December 5, 2010

Substitutions: Modifying lotions with ingredients you have (part 2)

We took a look yesterday at how to modify a lotion with ingredients we have at home. Let's take a look at two different recipes we could create by substituting ingredients.

In this first recipe, I'm trying to get a similar skin feel, which is to say I'm going for an oily version. Note the increase in the water amount as I am leaving out the liquid green tea extract in favour of powdered green tea extract.

MODIFIED TRYING NEW THINGS OUT LOTION #1
WATER PHASE
51% water
10% lavender hydrosol
3% glycerin
2% sodium lactate
2% hydrolyzed oat protein

OIL PHASE
20% oils - 8% fractionated coconut oil, 6% soybean oil, and 6% mango butter
6% Polawax
3% cetyl alcohol

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% fragrance oil (Cream cheese frosting from Brambleberry, as usual!)
1% Germaben II
1% Vitamin E
0.5% powdered green tea extract

Let's say you prefer a drier lotion. It's easy to modify the recipe to include those ingredients that will make a lotion feel less greasy. Substituting BTMS-50 for Polawax will do the trick nicely, and I'll add 2% IPM or IPP as well. I can choose another ester - let's say cetearyl ethylhexanoate - to offer a less greasy feel - but I'm keeping the wheat germ oil for its lovely benefits and the mango butter for its astringency.

In this next version, I'm adding a bit of water soluble calendula extract in place of the liquid green tea extract for its anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. I'll use neroli or orange blossom hydrosol to give it that drier feel, but I'm leaving my humectants the same. Finally, I'm using stearic acid instead of cetyl alcohol to make it more of a cream than a lotion.

MODIFIED TRYING NEW THINGS OUT LOTION #2
WATER PHASE
44.5% water
10% neroli or orange blossom hydrosol
3% propylene glycol
2% sodium PCA
2% phytokeratin

OIL PHASE
20% oils - 8% cetearyl ethylhexanoate, 6% wheat germ oil, and 6% mango butter
6% Incroquat BTMS-50
3% stearic acid
2% IPP or IPM

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% fragrance oil (Cream cheese frosting from Brambleberry, as usual!)
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% Vitamin E
5% liquid calendula extract

So there you have two lotions based on one lotion, and both will feel quite different from each other and the original!

Join me tomorrow for more fun substituting ingredients!

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