Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Preservatives: Optiphen ND or Rokonsal ND

Optiphen ND is a liquid broad spectrum preservative with the INCI Phenoxyethanol (79% to 81%), Benzoic Acid (11.5% to 12.5%) Dehydroacetic Acid (7.7% to 8.5%). It is suitable for products containing water and can be added at any point in the product making process as it isn't heat sensitive. It is best used with products with a pH under 6.0. It's paraben free and isn't a formaldehyde donor.

We know benzoic acid has moderate bactericidal activity and great fungicidal activity, and we know that phenoxyethanol has great bacteria and yeast killing abilities, but we don't know anything about dehydroacetic acid. What does it do?

Dehydroacetic acid is one of our organic acids. It has great fungicial properties but low bactericidal properties, so it's a good addition to this mix to make it a broad spectrum preservative. Unfortunately, it tends to work very poorly when included at a pH of 5.0, and it can be inactivated easily by cationics, non-ionics, and proteins.

Summary of Optiphen ND:
INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroacetic Acid.
Usage at 0.2% to 1.2% in any phase of your creation.
Suitable for creations containing water. Not suitable for anhydrous products.
May not be suitable for products that include cationic polymers or quaternary compounds.
Best used in products with a pH lower than 6.0.

8 comments:

melian1 said...

what is the difference between a formaldehyde donor and a formaldehyde releaser?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Melian! It's the same thing - I'm not sure why they use the terms interchangeably, but they do! ("They" being my textbooks!)

Kuldip said...

Compounds slowly releasing formaldehyde, the so-called formaldehyde-releasers, are commonly employed as preservatives in cosmetics instead of free formaldehyde, which is a strong skin sensitizer. It has been long accepted that formaldehyde-releaser sensitization is attributable to released formaldehyde. However, clinical studies show the existence of patients allergic to formaldehyde-releasers but not to formaldehyde itself.
BTW these can be found in clothing too.

Mya Symons said...

Hello. I found this statement on a DIY website and was wondering what you thought about it: "There have been some health concerns about the combination of sodium benzoate and ascorbic acid or vitamin C. When the two are mixed, they can form the chemical benzene, which is carcinogenic."

Should we avoid things like citrus juices, grapefruit seed extract, and citrus type essential oils and fragrance oils when we use a preservative that contains sodium benzoate?"

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Mya! A great comment! I thought I had written about this, but I can't find it in a search, so I think it's something I might have read but didn't write about or something I wrote about but didn't post or something I wrote about and posted but can't find.

In the meantime, here's a post on Vitamin C, but it doesn't address your question! Look for it in a few days!

Deb Z said...

So - if the dehydroacetic acid can be deactivated by proteins, does that mean that this is not the best preservative to use with lotions with goats milk in them or any of the hydrolyzed proteins?

Thanks, Deb

Vesper Zhao said...

Hi,
I'm trying to make a lotion using emulsifying wax, stearic acid,,almond oil, olive oil and water. Can I use optiphen ND? The reason I bought was that the brochure says it is a mild preservatives. However it also says it might be deactivated by none inonic surfucants or emulsifiers. So if I switch the recipe to BTMS 50 and cetyle acohol will them inactivate the optiphen ND?
Thank you!

A lotion beginner

Andrea Coles said...

I am researching the mildest but most effective preservative to use in my homemade housecleaning products. So far, Optiphen sounds about right (Or Optiphen ND). They are very simple recipes...EX: water, vinegar, lavender or clove essential oils for cleaning windows, mirrors, etc. Is Optiphen a good component? My apologies, I do not have percentages...I am still adjusting my recipes.