Saturday, October 2, 2010

Experiments in the workshop: Polyglucoside/lactylate blend in a foaming facial cleanser

I do like my foamy bottles - they're cute, they foam, and I don't have to thicken my product up to use them! Plus, this one has a lime green cap, which is always a good thing in my book. (Hey, I'm tempted to buy a lime green Ford Fiesta just because of the colour!) So let's take a look at formulating a foaming facial cleanser with my new surfactant - the polyglucoside/lactylate blend. (Click here to read what I wrote about this surfactant yesterday.)

I'm using this recipe as the base for my modifications - foamy facial cleanser for normal to oily skin - because it's my favourite cleanser. Adding the polyglucoside/lactylate blend is a good replacement for SMC taurate.

So what changes did I make? I'm using the caprol micro express (CME) instead of the PEG-7 olivate because I've run out of PEG-7 olivate and the CME is a good substitute for it. I added 20% chamomile hydrosol by accident - I wrote it down twice in the recipe, so I put in 10%, then another 10%! You can use any hydrosol you like or just water for the aloe and chamomile hydrosol. And I used the polyglucoside/lactylate blend instead of SMC Taurate.

I debated adding some white willow bark or salicylic acid to the mix as both would be great for exfoliation or pore cleansing, but I figured I have enough in my toner to make up for not using it here. I don't want too much exfoliation!

FOAMY FACIAL CLEANSER WITH CAPRO MICRO EXPRESS AND POLYGLUCOSE/LACTYLATE BLEND
HEATED PHASE
41.5% water
3% caprol micro express or another water soluble ester
10% polyglucose/lactylate blend
8% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% aloe vera
20% chamomile hydrosol
3% hydrolyzed protein

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% panthenol
0.5% preserative
2% honeyquat or polyquat 7

Weigh the heated phase into a heatproof container and put into your double boiler to heat to 70˚C. Remove from heat, and when the mixture reaches 45˚C to 50˚C, add the cool down phase. Bottle and rejoice. (In theory, you can make this cold if you have distilled water, but you will want to use the maximum amount of preservative allowed.)

You can add all kinds of lovely extracts and hydrosols to the mix. I generally like to add some chamomile or honeysuckle extract, but I felt I had enough chamomile with the hydrosol and I'm out of honeysuckle! If you wanted to use this as a thicker cleanser, you can increase the surfactants to 20% polyglucose/lactylate and the cocamidopropyl betaine to 10% to 20%, then use your favourite thickener to get it to a good viscosity (2% Crothix at least)!

So what do I think? This is a very moisturizing feeling cleanser. I've only been using it for a couple of days, and I am worried it might be too moisturizing and not cleansing enough for my oily skin. I think it would be perfect for dry to normal skin, but us oily skinned girls might not like it. This doesn't mean the polyglucoside/lactylate surfactant isn't a good choice for oily skin, just you might want to use it at a lower level and include one of the surfactants good for our skin like a sulfosuccinate or olefin sulfonate.

Join me tomorrow for fun formulating a whipped butter for sore muscles!

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