my new favourite body wash recipe! (Although for some reason, I forgot to include the PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate!) I've also experimented with polyglucoside/lactylate in a foaming face wash, which we'll see tomorrow.
The big change in this recipe is the polyglucoside/lactylate surfactant mix! I don't tend to use decyl glucoside much because the pH is so high, but I thought this blend with a pH of 5.0 to 7.5 or 8 would work well in my body wash.
I bought the polyglucoside/lactylate blend from Creations from Eden, but you can find it at the Herbarie and at Ingredients to Die For as well. You can find it under the trade names Ritafactant 138AN or Iris ISO. Unfortunately, I can't offer the data sheets on either of these brand name surfactants because they are password protected - no doubt to keep the information from people like us who might only buy 1 kg a year instead of hundreds of drums.
This blend contains about 54 to 59% active ingredients, it has a shelf life of about 24 months, and you can use it at 10% to 70%. It is considered a very mild cleanser.
We met decyl glucoside in the post about alkyl polyglucosides (so click if you want to see the longer version), but let's do a quick recap. Decyl glucoside is a very mild non-ionic cleanser that works well as both a primary or secondary surfactant as it is a good foamer. It has an alkaline pH - 7 to 9.5 - so you'll have to bring your pH down with citric acid or another acidic ingredient to ensure it reaches the right pH for skin and hair. (Another data sheet states the pH is 11.5! EEK!) It is about 48% to 52% active ingredients in the surfactant, and the suggested use is 4% to 40%. This is a great ingredient for a conditioning shampoo or body wash as it improves the cationic conditioning in your products, as well as offer foam stabilization.
Sodium lauroyl lactylate is considered an ultramild cleanser that is substantive to our skin and plays well with cationic polymers like polyquat 7 or honeyquat. It reduces feelings of tackiness and can be a viscosity builder (when found in flake form). It is an emulsifier and moisturizer, so you should be able to add small amounts of oils - like fragrance or light carrier oils - without fear of separation.
So put these two things together and we should have a very very mild cleanser that offers moisturizing, a reduced feeling of tackiness, and a boost to the conditioning power of your product.
salicylic acid this time instead of white willow bark because I wanted to avoid the swampy brown colour the extract adds, but I needed to figure out how to dissolve the salicylic acid because it likes to dissolve in alcohol but this isn't really a good application for alcohol. I could dissolve it in propylene glycol, but I didn't want to use that either (not for any philosophical reasons, just because I couldn't reach it on the top shelf with my sore back). The solubility increases as you heat the water, so I heated my water phase and added the salicylic acid to it. It worked! Hooray! (As a note, 1% salicylic acid in this recipe is quite high and will result in a foamy top in your body wash. The solubility of salicylic acid is about 0.5 grams in 460 grams of hot water, so I have far too much in here...but I'm experimenting!)
And I've used SCI without stearic in this body wash because I have tons of it around and like to use it for the creamy feeling as well as the thickening. You can use SCI with stearic in this product if you want - you probably won't need the thickening at the end, but it won't become clear the way this product might!
BODY WASH WITH POLYGLUCOSE/LACTYLATE BLEND AND SALICYLIC ACID
HEATED SURFACTANT PHASE
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% SCI (without stearic)
20% polyglucose/lactylate blend
HEATED WATER PHASE
10% aloe vera
10% chamomile hydrosol
5% myristamine oxide
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
1% salicylic acid
COOL DOWN PHASE
2% fragrance oil
Up to 2% Crothix to increase viscosity.
In a heatproof container, weigh cocamidopropyl betaine and SCI and heat until melted. Add the polyglucose/lactylate blend and heat until well mixed.
In another container, weigh all the heated water phase except the salicylic acid, and put into your double boiler. When this phase reaches 65˚C to 70˚C, add the salicylic acid and mix until dissolved.
Combine the heated water and heated surfactant phase in a larger container and mix until incorporated. When the mixture reaches 45˚C to 50˚C, add the cool down phase and mix well. When the mixture comes to room temperature - this may take over night - check the viscosity. Add up to 2% Crothix - 1% then 1% - until it reaches the viscosity you like.
So what do I think? It wasn't as thick as it should be with the SCI and cocamidopropyl betaine, so I added 2% Crothix. It still isn't as thick as I expected, but it will do for now. It feels really lovely on my skin, and I felt well moisturized after showering, but I think a shot of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate would offer the more long lasting moisturization I've come to know and love in the previous recipe.
I do like this surfactant - it feels really lovely and creamy with SCI and cocamidopropyl betaine - and I will use it in other creations. So join me tomorrow to formulate with polyglucoside/lactylate blend in a body wash!