Think of coco caprylate/caprate as an esterified version of coconut oil in that it's much thicker than the other esters we've used, with a high spreading value and thicker feeling on your skin. I'm using it to be a thicker ester - on par with a medium weight oil like rice bran oil - which, combined with the shea - thick oil - and cetearyl ethylhexanoate - light oil - should create a really lovely butter that has different levels of moisturizing.
WHIPPED SHEA NOT-BUTTER WITH ESTERS
20% cetearyl alcohol
20% cetearyl ethylhexanoate
20% coco caprylate/caprate
37% shea oil (Soapcraft version)
1% fragrance oil (Brown Sugar Pecan - yum!)
Heat all the ingredients, except the fragrance oil, in a heat proof container in a double boiler until all have melted. Put into the freezer for as long as it takes for the product to harden. Remove, whip, and rejoice.
This is definitely an occlusive product that melts on contact with your skin. It feels very thick and rich, but spreads incredibly well and doesn't feel draggy at all. After about 30 minutes, it starts to feel a little drier than it did on first application, and an hour later I would describe the feeling as being silky and emollient. This is a strange product - I didn't think it would make it to the silky stage at all!
Ten days later, it's completely stable and showing no signs of separating! I think I might finally put this in a container and label it!
Summary: I think the cetearyl alcohol worked best - it was the only one that didn't separate with just an oil and with the esters- and it would be cool to be able to make whipped butters with oils we don't normally see in a butter format, but I think this experiment was kind of a bust. It's probably easier just to get a butter and whip that with some kind of lovely oil, but it was interesting to see how it would turn out!
Join me tomorrow as I do a little experimenting with cationic polymers in intense conditioners!