Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Experiments in the workshop: Hand soap with polyquats and glycol distearate

Nothing says creamy and moisturizing like an opaque product, so I think I'll modify yesterday's recipe to include glycol distearate as a pearlizer and moisturizer.

I'm going to be honest - I find using glycol distearate a pain in the bum to use as you have to make sure it melts, but if I have to melt my SCI (without stearic this time because I couldn't bend down to get the SCI with stearic from the box due to my sore back) then I might as well melt the glycol distearate at the same time.

For my surfactants, I'm sticking with SCI and cocamidopropyl betaine, but I thought I'd include the polyglucose/lactylate blend as it will boost the conditioning power of the polyquats and increase the feeling of moisturization after rinsing. I've reduced the amount of surfactant I'm using because I want it to rinse cleaner, so I'm using about 31% surfactants instead of yesterday's 40%.

I've decided to keep the PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate as I like the moisturizing feeling, but I've switched the polyquat 7 to honeyquat (in the cool down phase) at 3% because I though it could work double duty as a humectant and conditioning agent (and I can call it "orange and honey hand cleanser", which sounds really nice).

I've decided to use orange hydrosol - I like this stuff and it sounds nice in the title - and keep the aloe vera at 10%. For the fragrance, I'm going with white tea & ginger as it is a light airy scent that won't be too cloying on my hands.

10% cocamidopropyl betaine
11% polyglucose/lactylate blend
10% SCI without stearic acid
2% glycol distearate

33.5% water
10% aloe vera
10% orange hydrosol
3% PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate
3% glycerin

3% honeyquat
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance
Crothix (optional)

Weigh the first heated phase into heatproof container and heat in your double boiler until the SCI and glycol distearate has melted. Weigh the second heated phase into a heatproof container and heat until the SCI has melted in the other container. Remove both from the heat and add the second heated phase slowly, stirring as you go, until it is well incorporated. You may want to heat it a little longer to ensure it is well incorporated.

When the temperature reaches 45˚C to 50˚C, add the cool down phase BUT DON'T ADD THE CROTHIX! (Read more about Crothix here if you've never used it before.) I didn't need Crothix in mine, but that will vary given the modifications to ingredients and fragrance you choose. 

When the mixture has reached room temperature or has sat for at least four hours, test the viscosity. Add 1% Crothix, and mix very well. If you want it a bit thicker, add another 0.5% and stir well. Repeat until you get the viscosity you want.

So what do I think? I really like this version, and my mom put the Jergens away and left this one on the counter, so I think it's a keeper! (She approves of the colour and appearance - yay!) It feels more moisturizing than yesterday's, although that could be a result of my brain telling me it is more moisturizing because of the pearlized appearance. It rinses cleanly and the fragrance is at just the right level. Yep, I like this one!

A note on the fragrance: If you want to reduce it to 0.5% or use essential oils, have at it! One of my friends who is slightly scent sensitive felt it was too strong, whereas my non-scent sensitive and scent loving friends think it's great, so consider that when you're making a hand soap. I know the stuff at my local sushi place is very strongly scented, and I can smell it on my hands when I'm trying to enjoy the Las Vegas roll (a decadent deep fried Dynamite Roll with cream cheese and unagi sauce on top).  I've mentioned it to the owner's wife a few times, then she berated her husband for his poor soap choices, so I felt pretty bad about that!

The one down side of reducing the fragrance is that SCI smells very soapy, which isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it is definitely there...

Join me tomorrow for the start of a series on preservatives and preserving our products. 


Tara said...

Looking forward to the preservatives topic!!

Kat said...

Hi, Susan. Love, love, love your blog! I just wanted to ask if perhaps the "PEG-7 glycol distearate" (instead of "PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate") is a typo here? I'm new enough that I can't say for certain, but I think it might be and if so, it would help me (and possibly others) to know. Thanks so much!!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Kat! Thanks for catching that typo. It is, in fact, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and not the glycol distearate. I guess I had pearlizers on my mind!

Adele said...

Hi Susan- a question about glycol distearate. If I am making liquid soap in a crock pot (with potassium hydroxide, sunflower oil and water) at what point do I add the melted glycol distearate? During the cooking process, or during the dilution phase? Any help is very much appreciated. Thank you.