Sunday, September 5, 2010

Two quick notes on this series on esters and one general note about the blog!

First note - If you don't have esters and want to play along with the recipes, you can use a very light oil like fractionated coconut or fractionated shea oil in place of most of the esters, except the water soluble ones when you require water soluble oils (for instance, in surfactant based products). You can use oils in conditioners, emulsified products, and other products that would normally be oil based if you don't have or don't want to use esters!

For instance, for this hand lotion recipe you could use some very light oils for the esters and 2% dimethicone and 2% cyclomethicone in place of the ethylhexyl palmitate. Or in this serum recipe, just use the original recipe's oils.

For the surfactant based recipes, you can try using an emulsifier like polysorbate 80 to emulsify the oils that can be added to the products.

As a subsection of the first note, all of the recipes I write are intended to show you how to use ingredients, but they aren't written in stone! There are very few recipes that must be followed the way they are written - the gel recipes, for example, are very picky about the process and chemistry of the ingredients added - and all my recipes are intended to be tweaked to suit your personal preferences or philosophy and to take into account what might be in your workshop.

If you don't like silicones, leave them out or substitute them with something else. If you don't have esters, find something else. If you're sensitive to aloe vera, then have fun with another hydrosol or leave it out entirely. The goal of this blog is to share information you might need to create your own products, and I hope I provide enough information in my posts to allow you to do that with confidence!

Second note - I realize a lot of the products about which I'm writing are Croda products. I'm not being paid by Croda to talk about their products - although I wish I were, all those free samples would be awesome! - and I'm not in the employ of any company to promote the use of esters. I bought all of them at retail prices from various suppliers and I'm writing this series at the behest of some of my wonderful readers and because I'm slightly obsessed with esters at the moment!

You can find some of these esters made by other company - Jeen makes some of them as well - but Croda has the best data bulletin and data sheets of all of them, and I'm using their trade names as it's much easier to type something like Crodamol PMP as opposed to PPG-2 myristyl ether propionate over and over again. If you're interested in finding another manufacturer of the esters, google the INCI name and you should find some. For the most part, the manufacturer won't be relevant to us as we just need to check the INCI name of the product to see what we're getting from our suppliers!

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