this recipe using the golden shea butter. For some reason - and I'm not sure why now - I decided to use 25% golden shea butter in this recipe when I'd normally use about 20% butters and 56% oils. I can't offer an explanation for this change, but I'm pleased with it, so I guess it's a happy accident. (This is why I tell you to write everything down as your play in your workshop!)
GOLDEN SHEA EMULSIFIED SUGAR SCRUB
25% golden shea butter
10% emulsifier - BTMS-50, e-wax, or Polawax
5% C12-15 alkyl benzoate
10% cetyl alcohol
20% fractionated coconut oil
20% apricot kernel oil
2% fragrance oil
1% Vitamin E
125% to 150% sugar
Weigh the shea butter, emulsifier, oils and esters into a heatproof container and put in your double boiler until melted. Remove and add the rest of the ingredients. Mix well, then put into a fridge or freezer to solidify (the freezer is a better choice with unrefined butters, but since we're adding sugar to this, grains aren't really an issue!). When the mixture has a solid layer on top but some liquid underneath, remove from the freezer and start whipping with the whisk attachment on your mixer. Add your sugar - I like to use about 140% sugar, but it's your choice - and whip until it has almost doubled in size. Spoon into a container and enjoy!
As I'm trying to be more experimental, I chose to use the C12-15 alkyl benzoate as both an emollient and a fragrance fixative, the apricot kernel oil as I haven't used it in a while (and because I'm out of my usual soybean oil), the fractionated coconut oil because I wanted very light oils in this mix, and the two silicones because I wondered why I didn't include those regularly when I really like silicones. I chose BTMS-50 as my emulsifier because I thought it would be interesting to see what this butter would feel like with a drier emulsifier.
As usual, substitute whatever oils you want in this recipe for other ones or esters, and leave out the silicones if you want, just add 2% to the oil phase. And choose the emulsifier you like!
Realistically, I should have made the exact recipe I make every time and just change the golden shea butter, but I really wanted to play in the workshop with something new, so I changed just about everything!