Friday, September 24, 2010
Experiments in the workshop: Black cocoa butter emulsified sugar scrub
Using this recipe, I figured I would modify it in a few ways. I decided to use sunflower and olive oil as I'm out of soybean oil, and I left out the stearic acid, using only cetyl alcohol. I always use Polawax in this recipe as I like the greasier feeling of this emulsifier over BTMS-50, and I used cocoa butter as my entire butter portion because I wanted a really good sense of what the cocoa butter brings to the party!
If you don't have access to black cocoa butter, use 10% shea, mango, or other soft butter and 10% cocoa butter in this recipe.
So let's take a look at this recipe!
EMULSIFIED SUGAR SCRUB WITH BLACK COCOA BUTTER
10% emulsifying wax (e-wax, Polawax, or BTMS)
10% cetyl alcohol or stearic acid (5% cetyl and 5% stearic is very nice)
20% black cocoa butter
56% oil - I'm using soy bean oil here
1% Vitamin E
2% fragrance or essential oil*
If you want to use this for a body scrub, start with 100 grams of sugar per 100 grams of sugar scrub. You can increase it as high as 200 grams for 100 grams of sugar scrub - it depends upon your taste (I like it really scrubby, so I go for 170 to 200 grams per 100 grams of sugar scrub.) If you are using another exfoliant, you'll really have to play with it to see what you like.
Weigh all ingredients except the fragrance or essential oil in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70C. Remove from the double boiler and put into your fridge or freezer until it reaches 45C. Add the fragrance oil, then return it to the fridge or freezer to cool further.
Doesn't this look like a wonderful chocolatey mousse? You may need to guard this with razor wire and signs stating "FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, DO NOT EAT THIS!" because it really looks amazing as you whip it!
I love this recipe! It stiffens up like my other sugar scrubs in about 24 hours, but it's so much easier to scoop from the container. I didn't have sugar scrub under my nails afterwards, and my skin felt really soft and moisturized. You will, however, get some flecks of brown on the walls of the shower, which rinse off easily.
My best friend reports - YUM! She wants more of this and I'm grateful I have a few containers of it in the workshop! (Normally she'd make a lot of these products with me, but she's still at home with the post-operational foot, so I had the chance to surprise her with a package of new and interesting products last week!)
If you're a seller and have to ship products across country in varying temperatures, this might not be the butter for you. If you're had trouble with shea butter going all liquidy, you'll get the same response from black cocoa butter.
I have to admit it...black cocoa butter is my new Saturday night thing! I love this stuff. It behaves like cocoa butter - so you're getting those great polyphenols and the protective barrier layer as you normally would - but it's softer and easier to cut and melt! I don't know if I'd use it in a lotion or cream as the brown colour could be off-putting, but I definitely love it in the sugar scrub and the bar I made yesterday. I think this would be great in a lotion bar or bath melt (with a reminder that one mustn't eat it!) as it would melt at a lower temperature than regular cocoa butter.
So for these applications, I'm giving black cocoa butter one of the highest accolades I can offer - this needs to be permanently in my workshop!
Join me tomorrow for some experiments with golden shea butter.