Friday, September 24, 2010

Experiments in the workshop: Black cocoa butter emulsified sugar scrub

I had such great success with the yesterday's black cocoa butter solid scrub bar, I had to try it in a sugar scrub! I figured the increased meltiness of the cocoa butter would be an awesome moisturizing ingredient, but I did worry it might be too melty in the container!

Using this recipe, I figured I would modify it in a few ways. I decided to use sunflower and olive oil as I'm out of soybean oil, and I left out the stearic acid, using only cetyl alcohol. I always use Polawax in this recipe as I like the greasier feeling of this emulsifier over BTMS-50, and I used cocoa butter as my entire butter portion because I wanted a really good sense of what the cocoa butter brings to the party!

If you don't have access to black cocoa butter, use 10% shea, mango, or other soft butter and 10% cocoa butter in this recipe.

So let's take a look at this recipe!

10% emulsifying wax (e-wax, Polawax, or BTMS)
10% cetyl alcohol or stearic acid (5% cetyl and 5% stearic is very nice)
20% black cocoa butter
56% oil - I'm using soy bean oil here
1% Vitamin E
2% fragrance or essential oil*
1% Phenonip

If you want to use this for a body scrub, start with 100 grams of sugar per 100 grams of sugar scrub. You can increase it as high as 200 grams for 100 grams of sugar scrub - it depends upon your taste (I like it really scrubby, so I go for 170 to 200 grams per 100 grams of sugar scrub.) If you are using another exfoliant, you'll really have to play with it to see what you like.

Weigh all ingredients except the fragrance or essential oil in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70C. Remove from the double boiler and put into your fridge or freezer until it reaches 45C. Add the fragrance oil, then return it to the fridge or freezer to cool further.

When the mixture starts to harden slightly on the sides of the container and gets a thick film on the top, remove it from the fridge or freezer and start whipping it with a hand mixer with whisk attachments or your Kitchenaid with whisk attachments. Whisk until it looks like chocolate pudding - this might take a little while - then add the sugar and whisk until well incorporated. Pour into jars and let sit until hardened.

Doesn't this look like a wonderful chocolatey mousse? You may need to guard this with razor wire and signs stating "FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, DO NOT EAT THIS!" because it really looks amazing as you whip it!

I love this recipe! It stiffens up like my other sugar scrubs in about 24 hours, but it's so much easier to scoop from the container. I didn't have sugar scrub under my nails afterwards, and my skin felt really soft and moisturized. You will, however, get some flecks of brown on the walls of the shower, which rinse off easily.

My best friend reports - YUM! She wants more of this and I'm grateful I have a few containers of it in the workshop! (Normally she'd make a lot of these products with me, but she's still at home with the post-operational foot, so I had the chance to surprise her with a package of new and interesting products last week!) 

If you're a seller and have to ship products across country in varying temperatures, this might not be the butter for you. If you're had trouble with shea butter going all liquidy, you'll get the same response from black cocoa butter.

I have to admit cocoa butter is my new Saturday night thing! I love this stuff. It behaves like cocoa butter - so you're getting those great polyphenols and the protective barrier layer as you normally would - but it's softer and easier to cut and melt! I don't know if I'd use it in a lotion or cream as the brown colour could be off-putting, but I definitely love it in the sugar scrub and the bar I made yesterday. I think this would be great in a lotion bar or bath melt (with a reminder that one mustn't eat it!) as it would melt at a lower temperature than regular cocoa butter.

So for these applications, I'm giving black cocoa butter one of the highest accolades I can offer - this needs to be permanently in my workshop!

Join me tomorrow for some experiments with golden shea butter.


Tara said...

The only thing I don't like about black cocoa butter is that it doesn't have the HEAVENLY smell of regular cocoa butter that I am obsessed with!!

plue said...

Hi Susan,
I need your opinion on this.
I don't have any black cocoa butter on hand and I made emulsified sugar scrub using your recipe but I substitute the black cocoa butter with normal cooking chocolate bar. It smells heaven and rinse well in the shower. The problem is, I do not know how long is the shelf life. I used Phenonip for preservative. I just made enough for 3 uses which I kept about 2 weeks. I'm planning on selling this during my charity bazaar and need to know the shelf life.
Thanks in advance for your help!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi plue. I don't have any idea how long the shelf life of chocolate incorporated into a scrub might be.

How many batches of this have you made? I ask because I don't think it's the best idea to sell something to other people if you don't know the answer to questions about the shelf life, preserving, and so on. Right now you know that it's good for about 3 uses over two weeks - you can't really say more than that to your potential customers, and we all know that people buy things and keep them in their bathrooms or cars or bedrooms for months on end before using them. Please reconsider selling this product until you've had a chance to really test it for a long period of time.

Here's a post I wrote with some things to think about before selling products.

plue said...

Hi Susan,
really appreciate your comment. I've made 4 batches of the scrub up till now. All went well and the longest I've kept the product in my bathroom is for 2 weeks plus 4 days. I'll reconsider on selling the product.

Thanks for the reply :)

julie said...

I have made this recipe numerous times, all with excellent results--thank you!!

Last night, I decided to double it and something isn't right. It looks like it's literally sweating oil! Little drops all over the place and along the sides... I can't figure out what happened. Help?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Julie. I have no idea what happened there. I've made 10 x batches of this product quite a few times and there should be no difference when you're making a huge batch or a 100 gram batch. Did you use all the same ingredients I did or did you make changes? If so, can you let me know your recipe and process? (It almost sounds like you left out some of the emulsifier, but I can't make assumptions here!) Please let me know and I'll see what I can figure out for you!

julie said...

Well here goes... After a little research, I have realized I made a mistake with one ingredient... let's see if you catch :) Not sure if that caused my issue, though.

All in grams (doubling original, changing things up a bit)

20 ewax
10 stearic
10 cetyl
40 cocoa butter
50 olive oil
50 grapeseed oil
12 fract coconut oil
2 vit E
4 fragrance
5 germ II
250 sugar

any input greatly appreciated! I took all of the leaky containers and re-mixed in a big bowl and then re-packaged. I'm going to try again and I will take a picture of the results if it happens again.

Thank you!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Julie! Do you mean using Germaben II - a water soluble and, thus, in appropriate preservative for this product - or do you mean the titch of extra oil, because the latter isn't a big deal in this. Using any water soluble ingredient in this product will result in the water beads you reference! Let us know how it turns out!

julie said...

yep! germaben II! Will definitely order some Phenonip, thanks!

Kathe said...

Hi Susan,
Love your blog and am finding it to be a huge resource for me. Would you mind telling me, why do you need to use a preservative in this at all as it seems to be anhydrous? Thanks!

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan,

I am scratching my head on this one...Black cocoa butter is nearly impossible to find (online). Do you mind sharing your source?
Also, if i am to use Polawax in the above formula (oily skin), the 25% rule would require me to add 22% of Polawax not 10%. Would you please help me understand?

Thanks for taking the time to respond,

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Kathe! If you check out the FAQ, there is a post in there about water activity and sugar or salt scrubs. The quick answer - because we might introduce bath or shower water into the product that could harbour beasties!

Hi Elodie! Of course I'm happy to share my suppliers! I get mine from Creations from Eden in Alberta. Randi is a great supplier! And the 25% rule is only about lotions, and this product isn't a lotion, so we can add as much or as little as we want to get the emulsification in the rinse off.

Stephany&Stacia said...

Hi susan, could I incorporate a little bit of surfactant in this to make it foamy??? thanks

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Stephany! No. It wouldn't work well because oil suppresses lather and foam and this is pretty much all oil!

Sophia Jhajj said...

Oh No I can't use germaben II? I thought because there is EWAX in it I could use it? So what will happen? I watched a lady use it in her e-sugar scrub and it worked for her... now im worried! I had been using phenonip but Wholesalesuppliesplus ran out!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Sophia. I've addressed your comment in the Weekend Wonderings for Sunday, May 25th (to be published tomorrow). The short answer is that you have to choose a preservative for oil only products.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

How is it a "made up thing"? It is cocoa butter with cocoa powder added. We know that it what it is. So if we know what it is and are pleased with that, how are we being duped? I'm afraid I don't get your laughing. There are loads of things we could make that we buy - clothes, pre-made food, furniture, and so on - that we are happy to pay for, so why would this ingredient be any different?

Please amend your comment to add your name, or I'll have to delete it as per blog policy.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I'm deleting the comment about black cocoa butter being a made up thing as the author didn't include a name.

As an aside, it never fails to amuse me how anonymity makes one bolder. The author could have included a name and said the same thing, but they probably couldn't have had the same sarcastic tone about it. Stand behind your words if you think they're worth saying!

Anna said...

Hi Susan,
It is a bit harder to find, but pure non refined non- deodorized, non discoloured cocoa butter is available. It's dark brown (although not as dark as the cocoa pellets I've seen in your pictures), I find it to be actually slightly harder than the regular one and the smell is also so much richer.
I LOVE the stuff, but the downside is it's price is at least double of that of the regular one. But then again, I've only found it at Aroma-Zone, and they sell mostly Eco grade oils and butters, which makes the prices dearer anyway.
By the way, I am not the anonymous you deleted before, I just thought I could share this other type of cocoa butter with you Cheers!

Nancypants said...

Hi Susan!

I tried making an emulsified scrub last night. My scrub is not hard or thick like yours at all. It's light and well...light? It doesn't feel hard. I don't know how to explain it but it did not harden or thicken. Do you think I whipped it too much or not enough? I didn't quite get it to be pudding consistency, it was a little looser than that. Perhaps I didn't let it get cold enough before whipping the oils or butter? Should I only use steric acid then?

I thought the consistency would be a bit like brown sugar only a little more whippy.

Thanks for your help!!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Nancypants. What's the consistency like now? What is your exact recipe and process? How much sugar did you use? What kind of sugar did you use?

Nancypants said...

Hi Susan!

Sorry for the late reply! The consistency is very...light and wet. Perhaps I didn't let it stiffen long enough? I used rice bran oil instead of the black cocoa butter and added some cupuacu butter in my recipe. I did 150 grams of white sugar in it as well.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Nancy! Can you please write up your recipe in percentages and post it as I'm a little confused about what you might be doing. Are you leaving out the cocoa butter all together? It's kinda essential that you use some kind of butter.

Anamaria Pm said...

Hi Susan, I recently made this sugar scrub as I had all the ingredients, but one day later the oils separated and it didn't have the wonderful emulsified appearance it had at the beginning. I must tell you that I live in a extremely hot country (ecuador), could that be the reason why this happened? And if so, is there a way to make it work? I added double sugar than suggested. I would very much appreciate it if you give me a guidance. Thank you a lot

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI Anamaria. Can you please post your exact recipe in percentages and your process and I will be happy to help? Also, what is the temperature where you stored the product?

Anamaria said...

Thank you Susan, there it goes:
10% emulsifying wax
10% stearic acid
20% black cocoa butter
56% sunflower oil
1% vitamin E
2% Brambleberry fragrance Passionfruit
1% Phenonip
200 grs white sugar
I followed your instructions, mixed all ingredients except fragrance put it in a double boiler to melt, kept it at 70* x 20 minutes, removed and put it in the freezer to low down temperature to 45*, add fragrance, back to the freezer to cool, when i started to harden whipped it to pudding consistency, then added sugar and poured into jars. Normal temperature in my city is usually 35*C so I placed the scrubs in freezer.
Susan I love your blog!

Veselina Dragolova-Danailova said...

Hello, Susan!

Thank you for the great blog!

I have the this question:

In the recipes for emulsified sugar scrubs can one use one of the following emulsifiers (instead of the emulsifying waxes):

Bee Wax, TEGO® CARE (INICI Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate), Glyceryl Monostearate,
Olivem 1000 (INCI Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate)

Thank you!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Veselina! No, you can't use beeswax as it isn't an emulsiifer. As for the others, try them and see what you think!

Vintage Blue said...

Hi Susan,

If I'm reading this right the preservative goes into the mix before I add the sugar. So I only calculate the preservative based on the weight of the oil mix not the oil and sugar? Wouldn;t i be short on preservative if preservative weight is calculated on the final weight of the product?

I just want to make sure that my product is well preserved before giving it as gifts to friends.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Vintage Blue! Sorry for the delay in responding: I'm working through months of old comments.

The long form of your answer will be found as the Weekday Wonderings on Thursday, October 3, 2017. The short answer is that Phenonip can be used at 0.25% to 1%, so when I have 240 grams in a product, I have more than enough.

Great question!