Sunday, September 5, 2010

Esters: Using PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate in a body wash

You can use PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate anywhere you'd use an oil, so you can include them in anhydrous products like body oils, whipped butters, and lotion bars, as well as emulsified products like lotions and creams. You'll get the great detackifying properties, additional slip and glide, and a light, non-greasy emollient by including it at 1% to 15%. (We'll be taking a look at more anhydrous and emulsified products with esters in a few days if you want some specific recipes!)

You can use it in a body wash - remember that it's soluble in some surfactants and dispersible in others - at 1% to 15% with 3% being ideal. If you're looking for more emolliency and want more than 3%, you can use one of the surfactants in which it is soluble - ALS or TEALS - or you can combine it with another ester like PEG-7 olivate (use around 3% to 4%) or something like myristamine oxide (at up to 5%). Using PEG-7 olivate should give you a clear product.

12% cocamidopropyl betaine
16% BSB
12% C14-16 olefin sulfonate
32% warm distilled water
10% aloe vera liquid
5% PEG-7 olivate
3% PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate
3% polyquat 7
3% glycerin
2% cromoist
2% panthenol
0.5% preservative (liquid Germall Plus)
0.5% extract of choice
up to 2% Crothix (optional)
up to 2% fragrance or essential oil (use at safe levels)

Mix the surfactants together well, then add the rest of the ingredients (except the panthenol, preservative, and extract) and continue to mix. Try not to get too many bubbles. Heat a little water and dissolve the extract into it. Add the panthenol, extract, preservative, fragrance and colour. Let cool to room temperature, then add the Crothix 1% at a time until you reach the desired viscosity.

As a note, the body wash in the picture above is actually one with SCI, which you can find in the linked post. You can add 3% PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate and remove 3% of the water phase in that recipe, or you can substitute it for something else like the cationic polymer. If you use SCI with stearic acid, you'll see a really moisturizing body wash!

Join me tomorrow for fun formulating a shampoo with PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate!


Naomi said...

Hi Susan! I've made body washes based on your SCI recipe. Love the creaminess. My problem is that I produce bubbles! I try and try, gently mixing, using a fork, blending softly, but nver fail, aggghhh... a thick layer of bubbles. Some of the bubbles eventually (and eventually is a long time) die, but there's always some immortal ones. Any suggestions or tricks? It's fine for personal use, but I may want to whip (gently of course) some up for gifts since the formula is totally awesome. Thanks for your awesomeness!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Naomi. I have found a few bubbles are inevitable, but you're doing all the stuff I would do, especially using a fork instead of a spoon! Are you heating all the ingredients except the panthenol, preservative, and fragrance to the same temperature? It's easier to mix when it's warm. Otherwise, I have no suggestions! I just mix it up, let it cool overnight (or until after work that day, so about 10 hours or so) and add the Crothix, if necessary. I never bottle it when there's a bubble in it. You could skim the top - one of the kids in my craft group did that and it was crystal clear (not a recipe with SCI, though).

Naomi said...

I follow your directions on the heating. All is good, except for the foamy layer. Ohhh... skimming, didn't think of that... your kids are so smart! I'll try that next time.

Another question... I love the SCI body wash with stearic. I have a supply of SCI without stearic. Can I add stearic to my SCI w/o stearic? At what %?