Saturday, September 11, 2010

Esters: Ridiculously moisturizing body wash with esters (clear)

We took a look at making an opaque moisturizing body wash yesterday. Today, let's take a look at how to make a clear moisturizing body wash! Although I do think the opacity works to make the user feel as if it is more moisturizing, there's no reason we can't make a clear one that feels just as good!

You can use any body wash recipe you like here, but I'm going to use my favourite recipe using 5% SCI without stearic acid (the same one I used as a starting point yesterday). I know this mixture will eventually become clear and since that's my goal, I want to include esters that won't make it opaque!

PEG-7 olivate or another PEG type oil like sunflower or macadamia nut, Cromollient SCE, and Crodamol STS should be my first choice here. All of them help create clear surfactant systems and add emolliency. (Not all PEG esters or water soluble oils will create clear solutions, so you'll have to test each one before using!) I'll add each at 3% and reduce the water amount by 9%.

We'll be adding Crothix as well because we need to thicken the mixture if it's going to be 5% SCI without stearic acid (or use your thickener of choice).

I'm keeping all the humectants and cationic polymers the same - you can use condition-eze 7, honeyquat, or another cationic polymer of choice, but I'm going with condition-eze 7 because that's what I have in the workshop - and I'm keeping my surfactants the same as I really like this blend.

I'll include the 1% white willow bark because I really like the way it is helping my keratosis pilaris (click here for more information), but you could use salicylic acid to keep out the icky slightly brown colour.

CLEAR MOISTURIZING BODY WASH WITH SCI AND VARIOUS ESTERS
HEATED PHASE
34.5% water
5% SCI without stearic acid
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% LSB (or other anionic surfactant of choice)
5% aloe vera
3% glycerin
3% condition-eze 7
2% hydrolyzed protein
3% PEG-7 olivate or another water soluble oil
3% Crodamol STS
3% Cromollient SCE

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% panthenol
1% fragrance or essential oil
1% white willow bark
1% liquid Crothix (may not be necessary!)
0.5% to 1% preservative
colour, if desired

1. Weigh the SCI and cocamidopropyl betaine into a container and put into a double boiler. Stir occasionally until it is melted.

2. Weigh the rest of the heated phase into a container and put into a double boiler. Stir occasionally until it is the same temperature as the SCI and cocamidopropyl betaine.

3. Combine the two containers and mix very well until it is a homogenous solution. Don't stir too vigorously or you might end up with tons of bubbles that take some time to get to the top of the bottle!

4. When the mixture reaches 45˚C, add the cool down phase. Again, don't mix it too vigorously!

5. Let this sit until it comes to room temperature before bottling. This way you can tell if you need more thickening.

Join me tomorrow for fun formulating with Cromollient SCE! 

1 comment:

Jen said...

Susan, not to sound dense, but this formula adds up to 87.5%. Was there a typo or is the water amount supposed to be QS to 100%? I want to make this and want to know if all the ingredients are listed. Thanks!

Jen