Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Esters: Di-PPG-2 myeth-10 adipate (or Cromollient SCE)

Cromollient SCE (INCI Di-PPG-2 myeth-10 adipate - but I'm not typing that every time!) is a PPG ester that is water dispersible and oil and surfactant soluble.  A lot of people get this product to make dispersible bath oils in the place of polysorbate 80, but it has so many other purposes!

Cromollient SCE is a fantastic emollient for hair care products, and works well with surfactants for shampoos and emulsified products like conditioners. It can be used in rinse off and leave in products at a suggested rate of 1% for leave ins up to 3% in rinse-offs. (You can use 3% in the leave in if you want more emollience!) It will still produce clear products like body washes and shampoos, and it can reduce the wet combing forces of our hair up to 50% better than products without it. It also offers detangling, which is always a great thing. And it doesn't depress foam the way oils might, so you can still get great lather! Oh, and it acts as an irritation migitator so our products are more gentle to our skin!

It's great in mineral make-up as well, helping us press our powders or dissolve the wax in lipsticks.

You can use it in a cleansing oil at up to 15% and it's good for make-up removers as it is a surfactant, so it will make all the oil, grease, and other things we build up on our skin during the day rinse away cleanly. You can use it as the water soluble emollient in things like toners or cooling sprays, and you can use it in your anhydrous products like lotion bars, but it's probably better to use another ester in its place as it isn't the most emollient ester we've met so far!

If you want to use it as a bath product emulsifier, have fun! You can use at up to 10% in a dispersing bath oil and up to 2% in your bath bombs as an emollient and emulsifier.

Cromollient SCE is soluble in mineral oil, alcohol, and some surfactants. It's dispersible in water and propylene glycol, and insoluble in glycerin. It can be added in the heated oil or cool down stage, and it has a shelf life of at least 2 years.

Let's take a look at using Cromollient SCE in our products tomorrow!


Naomi said...

Hi Susan! I've been using poly80 in my scrubs to help them rinse off more cleanly. Will the Cromollient SCE, along with its oil dispersing abilities, also add to the emolliency of the scrub, leaving any lingering wonderfulness on the skin? Will it bring another positive aspect to the party? I'm always trying to make my body scrubs more lovely. Or is it a straight sub for Poly80?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Naomi! Cromollient will add to the emolliency of the scrub and stay behind to offer awesome moisturizing. I like polysorbate 80, but it can feel a bit sticky at times. Are you making a liquid scrub? I use e-wax in mine to help the oils emulsify and stick around - if you aren't making a solid one, then you'll want to get some solubilizing and emulsifying esters to add to your product! (Even if they're solid, Cromollient is a lovely choice.)

Naomi said...

Hmmm...solid or liquid...? I made a version of your emulsified sugar scrub and added the poly80 (one of lotioncrafter's formulas had the poly80, so I added it in at 3%. I guess I should have tried it first without the poly before adding it in). Do I really need the poly80 or cromollient if I already have e-wax in it? and at what % do you recommend I start at?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Naomi. I like to use about 10% e-wax (check out the recipe here). I wouldn't bother with either polysorbate 80 or Cromollient if you have the e-wax in it because the e-wax is enough emulsifier for the entire lot! Mine don't wash completely clean because I want some lotion-y goodness on my skin after using, but it's a dry lotion-y goodness, not a slimy oily feeling.

Naomi said...

Thanks Susan! Sometimes I get too fancy and start adding stuff in. I will gladly leave out the Poly80 and cromollient sce because my dry ashy legs need all the lotiony goodness it can get!

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan,

Thank you for your blog--I learn a lot. I've been trying to put Cromollient in at 3% in my toners and it separates out and drops to the bottom of the bottle mixed with the hydrosols and water. Am I missing something??? I thought it would incorporate. Thank you!