Thursday, September 2, 2010

Esters: Combining esters in leave-in conditioners

We've already taken a look at how to use cetyl esters in a leave in conditioner, so let's take a look at combining them with a few other esters like C12-15 alkyl benzoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, and PEG-7 olivate the way we did yesterday with the intense and rinse-off conditioners.

Why use esters in leave in conditioners? Because they're light and less likely to weigh down your hair with oils, butters, and fatty alcohols. Plus - as I've mentioned before - C12-15 alkyl benzoate and ethylhexyl palmitate can be used in place of dimethicone for those of you who don't like silicones or as non-greasy emollients! Start at 2% of the silicone replacement and increase it if you want more. If you want to use silicones in these recipes, then add them in the cool down phase as usual.

LEAVE IN CONDITIONER WITH ESTERS USED AS EMOLLIENTS AND SILICONE SUBSTITUTES
HEATED PHASE
2% Incroquat BTMS
2% condition-eze 7 or celquat H-100 or honeyquat (cationic polymer)
2% cetrimonium chloride (for detangling)
2% cetyl esters
2% ethylhexyl palmitate or C12-15 alkyl benzoate
up to 4% PEG-7 olivate or another water soluble oil
4% glycerin (humectant, makes the mixture thicker, which is nice)
1% aloe vera (I don't know if this little makes a difference, but I use it anyway)

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% hydrolyzed protein (I use cromoist)
1% panthenol
1% fragrance oil
.5% to 1% preservative (I use liquid germall plus)
water to 100%

Follow the general or alternate instructions for this recipe.

This recipe sees an increase in humectants - more aloe vera - and the addition of the extract and hydrosol. Feel free to leave those out. I've used the C12-15 alkyl benzoate or ethylhexyl palmitate as a substitute for silicones and the PEG-7 olivate or other water soluble oil as an emollient.

SWIFT'S FAVOURITE LEAVE IN CONDITIONER MODIFIED TO INCLUDE VARIOUS ESTERS, EXTRACTS, AND HYDROSOLS 
HEATED PHASE
43% water
2% Incroquat BTMS
4% glycerin
2% cetyl esters
4% PEG-7 olivate or other water soluble oil
4% ethylhexyl palmitate or C12-15 alkyl benzoate
11% aloe vera
10% lavender hydrosol
2% hydrolyzed protein of choice

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% polyquat 7 or honeyquat
2% cetrimonium chloride
2% panthenol
0.5% powdered rosemary extract
1% fragrance oil
0.5% to 1% preservative (I use liquid Germall plus at 0.5%)

Use the general or alternate instructions for making conditioners.

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at the polypropylene glycol esters (PPG esters) with a look at Crodamol STS (or PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate)!

2 comments:

Kat said...

I did not know if you got my email regarding a btms sub. Can I sub cetyl esters alcohol for btms?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I see you wrote to me on the 31st. I don't know if you actually read my blog but I'm away on holiday. When I get home, I'll take a look at it and see if I can offer any information. In the meantime, why not read the post on BTMS and see if it's anything like cetyl alcohol or esters. If you read the post on all three ingredients, I think you'll find your answer.