Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Revisited: Summer time product ideas with esters!

We're breaking records in the Fraser Valley with temperatures up to 32˚C, and I'm cranky. (Lest you doubt it's hot, we're breaking records from the 1930's!) I don't like the summer temperatures unless I'm camping or at the lake, so I need to find things to make the summer just a little bit less annoying. Yeah, I know, some of you live in hotter areas of the world, but I'm really a 20˚C to 22˚C kind of girl. It was hotter in July at times - up to 37˚C to 39˚C - and I was crankier then! But we do get a chance to enjoy shrimp boils with local corn - did I mention Chilliwack is corn country? - so there's an up side!

Esters are great substitutions for heavier oils and butters in your lotions or creams, and I'm finding the body oils with the esters a much better choice for this time of year. If you like the occlusive nature of something like cocoa butter but don't want the heaviness, consider using a non-occlusive ester like ethylhexyl palmitate (more on that shortly) or a low occlusive ester like cetearyl ethylhexanoate. If you want something occlusive but not heavy, consider using C12-15 alkyl benzoate.  If you want something less greasy for summer, consider adding IPM or IPP to the mix or substituting an ester or a lighter oil in your products (for instance, fractionated coconut oil). And to lighten up your lotion bar, consider using esters in the place of the oils and something like cetyl esters to replace some of the butters!

Here's a post I wrote recently on summer time product ideas...


Anonymous said...

How about something on Cetyl Esters!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

How 'bout tuning in on Friday!

Madeaj said...

Hi Susan

Loving the posts on esters. I'm trying to narrow down which esters I buy. I know IPM is top of the list. I really want to try a nice slightly dry face lotion.

I am interested in making a hair lotion or styling pomade with esters and glidy ingredients. Something thicker than a leave-in conditioner but thinner than a regular conditioner. Maybe serum or spray and good for the scalp.

I know I don't want much do I? :-)Any suggestions?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Madeaj! Thanks for the comments on the African hair type. I don't know much about it, so having an expert comment is fantastic! Thanks for the taking the time to write that!

I am having a love affair with these esters - I want to buy them all, so asking me for a shopping list is a terrible, terrible idea! Remember that IPM can be comedogenic, so if you have any break out issues, IPP might be a better choice.

I found this recipe for a styling pomade from Arch Chemicals. It's a good starting point for an idea. Mineral oil is out, but you could try using something like an ester as the base - not sure which one, I'll have to do some homework - then add another oil (if you want) or something like another ester. Okay, this isn't making sense at the moment, but I'm brainstorming. Crodamol STS is a nice ester for hair products, and I know there's another one but my brain isn't registering it right now.

The laureth-4 is the emulsifier, but we don't need one if we use BTMS in the mix, and we don't need the cationic polymer if we have BTMS. You can use one if you want, but it's not essential. It depends on if your hair likes the cationic polymers or not.

Okay, so what about using something like this? (Feel free to increase the amounts as you wish!)
20% ester of some sort
10% another ester of some sort
5% BTMS-50
2% dimethicone
2% cyclomethicone
2% panthenol
2% oat protein
1% fragrance
0.5% to 1% preservative
50% water or hydrosol or something liquidy

It seems like a good point to start and it's not really water based but close to 50-50. You can increase the silicones and reduce the esters if you don't like it.

I know Amaze XT is supposed to be great for hair products, so I'll post something like that shortly. In fact, I think this should be its own post - it's certainly long enough.

Hope this offers you a starting point!

Madeaj said...

Wow Susan

This is Great. Thank you for giving me an awesome start. I am going to try both recipes. I'll look at the details of esters you have written about and a few I found in my search and decide. I'll post my results.

I'm changing my goal for september to a hair pomade. I like the sound of your recipe better than Arch's, but that might be the mineral oil coloring my initial opinion. I'll take your advice and change the mineral oil for some other light oil blend and esters.

Thanks again, Susan. Woo Hoo, off to buy stuff! :-D BTW, I saw a 50% off sale at one of the suppliers. Is it okay to say which one?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Madeaj! Let me know which one turns out for you! And you can mention any supplier on here because we're not sponsored by anyone, so there's no one to offend! (Unless you're advertising like that sea buckthorn guy!)

Madeaj said...

No I don't do advertizing. I hate those sales pitches under the guise of a post. That's why I asked first. Sorry you had to go through that, I read some of the older posts.

New Directions Aromatics

has a sale on some of their cosmetic bases and FO. I am getting ready to make an order there because they have a couple of things I want to try. So I CAN'T vouch for their products or anything. Just wanted to share a sale. :-D