whipped butter - and tweak it using the new ingredient. In this case, I'm using C12-15 alkyl benzoate with soy butter.
I haven't used soy butter in a while as I couldn't find it locally, but Creations from Eden (Edmonton) has it on clearance, so I had to stock up! Oh, I missed the clearance on aloe butter!
Get your new ingredient - in this case, the C12-15 alkyl benzoate - and test it out on your arm. Note the way it spreads, how hard or easy it is to spread on your skin, how it feels immediately, then how it feels a few minutes later and a later in the day. If you can, have someone else give it a feel and get their opinion. (This is a great way to make friends - Can you feel my arm?) Make your notes. Now do the same for the old ingredient - in this case, soy butter - so you can get an immediate reaction to it. Yeah, you might remember how it felt, but things could be different today - different weather, different humidity, and perhaps even your skin is different from last time (if it's been a day since you used your butter, this probably isn't necessary).
Please note, some ingredients can't be used neat on your skin like essential oils, so don't do this with every ingredient you get. This is mostly for oils and butters.
The C12-15 alkyl benzoate rubs in well and easy to spread. It feels dryish on my skin but emollient. (Yes, I know I normally go on about how I like things greasy, and this ester is just greasy enough for my tastes!) The soy butter melts on contact with my skin, feels greasy, and is harder to spread.
WHIPPED SOY BUTTER WITH C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE
80% soy butter
20% C12-15 alkyl benzoate
I didn't bother melting the soy butter so I just measured it all out and whipped it together. It feels really nice on my skin - melts easily and rubs in well.
But I wanted it a little less greasy, so I added 2% IPM, nother dry feeling ester. And I needed a fragrance, so I added 1% Clementine Cupcake (from Brambleberry) to it (so good!!!). Then I whipped it again.
That 2% IPM made a nice difference in making it slightly less greasy and it didn't change how the butter rubbed into my skin. This is a really light whipped butter - in fact, I wouldn't call it a whipped butter because it won't really hold its shape (as you can see from the picture, it looks more like an emulsified body butter) but as it is a butter whipped with something else, I guess the name stands.
FINAL RECIPE FOR WHIPPED SOY BUTTER WITH C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE AND IPM
80 grams soy butter
20 grams C12-15 alkyl benzoate
2 grams IPM
1 grams fragrance oil
I chose a whipped butter because I didn't need to melt then re-melt the product to try something new in it the way I would have done with a lotion bar or balm. You can use esters in any place you might use an oil, but this is a good demonstration of how an ester can make your product feel less greasy.
As an aside, I had forgotten how much I love soy butter. It's got all the goodness of soybean oil with great Vitamin E levels and phytosterols, and it whips up so light and fluffy. Using the esters or light oils (like fractionated coconut oil) make it feel really light, and it is so much like an emulsified body butter, but I got there with a lot less effort than it is to make a lotion! I forget how much I really like these hydrogenated oil butters - ones like aloe butter (not shea aloe) or green tea matcha - in place of some of the true butters like cocoa, shea, and mango sometimes!
Join me tomorrow for fun with cetearyl ethylhexanoate!