Monday, August 30, 2010

Esters: Using PEG-7 olivate in foamy surfactant products - body wash

You know how much I love my foamy and lathery surfactants, so let's add some PEG-7 olivate to a body wash to enjoy the reduction in irritation, slight increase in thickening, and increase in moisturization!

We're all on a quest to find body washes that don't leave us feeling all dry and stiff after a shower - PEG-7 olivate to the rescue! (Click here to find out why our skin feels that way!) Something like glycol distearate (a glycol ester) can offer emolliency and a reduction in irritation, but it'll leave your product opaque, as can some of the other emollient surfactants like PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, cocamide DEA, and myristamine oxide. Using something like PEG-7 olivate (or another water soluble oil) will leave your products crystal clear, providing you're not using a polar fragrance. As well, it can emulsify small amounts of oils, so if you want to use a little more essential oil (at a safe rate) in your product, you'll be able to do that without having to use polysorbate 20.

As a note, not all water soluble oils or esters will leave you with a crystal clear product. I know the jojoba esters we used in the exfoliating facial wash made it quite cloudy. Check before making huge batches if the clarity is important to you.

Let's take a look at a body wash I made recently with myristamine oxide, a cloudy but emollient concoction that feels really moisturizing, and clear it up with PEG-7 olivate. If you look at the original recipe, you'll see I have PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and myristamine oxide in there, so I've removed those, added 5% PEG-7 olivate, and added 5% to the water phase. If you have dry skin, you can increase the PEG-7 olivate to 10% and reduce the water by 5%.

12% cocamidopropyl betaine
16% BSB
12% C14-16 olefin sulfonate
35% warm distilled water
10% aloe vera liquid
5% PEG-7 olivate
3% polyquat 7
3% glycerin
2% cromoist
2% panthenol
0.5% preservative (liquid Germall Plus)
0.5% extract of choice
up to 2% Crothix (optional)
up to 2% fragrance or essential oil (use at safe levels)

Mix the surfactants together well, then add the rest of the ingredients (except the panthenol, preservative, and extract) and continue to mix. Try not to get too many bubbles. Heat a little water and dissolve the extract into it. Add the panthenol, extract, preservative, fragrance and colour. Let cool to room temperature, then add the Crothix 1% at a time until you reach the desired viscosity.

You aren't restricted to using PEG-7 olivate to this recipe - this is just an example. Try it with any of your favourite body washes. Ones with SCI will be especially creamy and emollient when you add some PEG-7 olivate to the mix. And you can mix this with the other esters I've mentioned above for a super, creamy, moisturizing body wash! 

Join me tomorrow for fun formulating with PEG-7 olivate in shampoo! 


Ged said...

Hi Susan

After feeling quite dejected at your recent posts because of all the lovely esters that aren't available to us on this side of the pond, I got quite excited because I thought I'd had Peg-7 olivate at some time. When I looked it up at my supplier's it was actually peg-10, in fact the INCI is Peg-10 olive esters. Will the 3 points of esterification make a huge difference, or do you think I can use it in your recipes? It is described as a fat-restoring agent so I guess I could pretty much sub it for the peg-7, do you think?


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Ged. If you take a look at this post, you'll notice that as the number goes up, the water solubility increases. So your PEG-10 olive esters should work in just about the same way as PEG-7 olivate, only it will be more water soluble, which is a good thing! Try using it in a body wash or other surfactanty product and see how you like it! I think it will work the same as the PEG-7 olivate.