Sunday, August 22, 2010

Esters: Using cetyl esters in hair care products

If you're making a conditioner, consider using cetyl esters in place of the cetyl alcohol to make a thinner product. You can substitute it 1 for 1 with cetyl alcohol in any conditioner recipe. 

Cetyl esters are a great inclusion in a leave in conditioner where you want the boosted substantivity of the cationic quaternary compound without the thickening cetyl alcohol can provide. 

LEAVE IN CONDITIONER WITH CATIONIC POLYMERS, CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, AND CETYL ESTERS
HEATED PHASE
2% Incroquat BTMS
2% condition-eze 7 or celquat H-100 or honeyquat (cationic polymer)
2% cetrimonium chloride (for detangling)
2% cetyl esters
4% glycerin (humectant, makes the mixture thicker, which is nice)
1% aloe vera (I don't know if this little makes a difference, but I use it anyway)
1% hydrolyzed protein (I use cromoist)

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% panthenol
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
1% fragrance oil
.5% to 1% preservative (I use liquid germall plus)
water to 100%

Weigh the BTMS, cetac, glycerin, aloe vera, and water into a heat proof container and put into a double boiler until the ingredients melt. Mix well and leave to stand until the temperature reaches 45C, mixing occasionally. Add the hydrolyzed protein, panthenol, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, fragrance oil, and preservative at this time, and mix well. When the mixture is at room temperature, bottle in a spray bottle.

SWIFT'S FAVOURITE LEAVE IN CONDITIONER WITH EXTRACTS AND CETYL ESTERS 
HEATED PHASE
47% water
2% Incroquat BTMS
4% glycerin
2% cetyl esters
11% aloe vera
10% lavender hydrosol
2% hydrolyzed oat protein

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% polyquat 7 or honeyquat
2% cetrimonium chloride
2% panthenol
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
0.5% powdered rosemary extract
1% fragrance oil
0.5% to 1% preservative (I use liquid Germall plus at 0.5%)

Use the general or alternate instructions for making conditioners. 

As a note, if you're making a conditioner and don't want to use silicones, you can substitute oils in place of those silicones or an ester! Ethylhexyl palmitate is a good substitute for dimethicone, so you can use it at 2% to 4% in place of the silicones, or consider using something like PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, also known as Crodamol STS, an ester we'll be meeting shortly! 

Join me tomorrow for fun with Super Sterol esters! 

2 comments:

Meaue said...

I recently bought Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate.... can you tell me where it can be used... is it a silicone replacement or an ester? This is the description:

Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate is a water dispersible, surfactant soluble, silky emollient, detangler and slip enhancer. Its applications are body washes, liquid soaps, facial cleansers, bath oils and shampoos. It is suitable for a wide range of products and confers a silky emollience that is distinct and immediately perceptible. It is typically used at 1-5% for surfactant-based systems.

Thanks.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Meaue! I'll be doing a post on this in the near future, but here's a bit of information! You can find some data sheets under Cromollient SCE, and it's a great inclusion in surfactant systems to increase emollience and decrease irritation (if used at 2% to 5%). Try it in your body wash or shampoo to increase the moisturization of the products!

Look for the post in about a week and a half!