Thursday, August 26, 2010

Esters: Tweaking yesterday's hand lotion into a body lotion

Yesterday we made a hand lotion using our esters...today we'll take a look at making a body lotion by tweaking those ingredients.

How is a body lotion different than a hand lotion? I like my body lotions to be thicker and more occlusive. So I'll switch the cetyl esters for cetyl alcohol and change and increase the butter. I think shea butter will give me that occlusion I want and I'll up it to 10% to increase the thickness of the lotion. As I mentioned yesterday, I miss my occlusion, so I'll add my silicones back into the cool down phase at 2% cyclomethicone and 2% dimethicone. Because I've included these, I can remove the ethylhexyl palmitate as a substitute. But I want to use it because my body lotions have to be cupcake scented, so I'll substitute that for the cetearyl hexanoate because it doesn't play well with vanilla based fragrances.

I'm out of powdered green tea extract, so I'll use the 5% liquid in place of some of the water, but I'm still keeping the aloe vera, which is both a skin conditioning ingredient and a humectant, and I'm keeping the chamomile. I am changing my humectant because I like glycerin in my body products: I don't mind the slight stickiness. I'll use it at 3% because I already have the aloe and panthenol as additional humectants. I'm still using my chamomile hydrosol and powdered extract as I really like what they offer to the lotion.

Finally, I've increased the emulsifier to compensate for the extra butter and silicones.

BODY LOTION WITH GREEN TEA, CHAMOMILE, AND ESTERS
HEATED WATER PHASE
29% water
10% aloe vera
10% chamomile hydrosol
5% liquid green tea extract
3% glycerin
2% protein of choice (I'm using oat protein)

HEATED OIL PHASE
15% esters - 10% C12-15 alkyl benzoate & 5% ethylhexyl myristate
10% shea butter
3% cetyl alcohol
2% IPP or IPM
8.5% emulsifier (BTMS, Polawax, or emulsifying wax NF)

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
2% panthenol
0.5% chamomile extract
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% to 1% preservative
(This doesn't total 100% because of the difference in preservatives!)

Use the general lotion making instructions for this product.

This is definitely a thicker product with incredible spread and glide. I'm always surprised at the spreading ability of the esters - I swear this gets easier to spread as I rub it into my skin, rather than harder! If you want something lighter, you can use the babassu oil in here (did I mention I'm having a love affair with this stuff) and remember you can leave out the silicones and add a silicone substitute.

Join me tomorrow as we delve into the fascinating world of PEG- esters!

1 comment:

Madeaj said...

I like this. Green Tea and chamomile are some of my favorites.