Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Esters: Formulating with Super Sterol

Super Sterol can be used pretty much anywhere you'd use a regular oil, but as it is a lot more expensive, you might want to save it for those products where you want some serious moisturizing and skin barrier repair, like a facial moisturizer or serum.

In this serum for dry skin, we switched the camellia oil for C12-15 alkyl benzoate to increase to occlusive properties and cetearyl ethylhexanoate to increase the dry, silky feeling and reduce the greasiness from the other oils. If we add some Super Sterol to the mix, we can increase our skin's barrier repair abilities and make it feel a little drier still.

We could switch out the squalane as we're adding the Super Sterol to increase the moisturization level or add it as the 10% miscellaneous oils at the end of the recipe. Or change it for one of the oils you know your skin doesn't like!

FACIAL SERUM FOR DRY SKIN USING SUPER STEROL
20% squalane
20% soybean oil
10% C12-15 alkyl benzoate
10% cetearyl ethylhexanoate
10% evening primrose oil (20% for very dry skin, reduce the squalane by 10%)
10% borage oil
10% sea buckthorn oil
10% rosehip, carrot, or other oil that looks nice to you

Super Sterol is a great addition to a facial moisturizer, and can be used for the entire oil phase in this recipe. If you're using BTMS-50, you will get quite a dry feeling lotion, so feel free to switch it to e-wax or Polawax if you want something a little more glidy. If you want to keep the BTMS-50 for the dry feeling but still want glide, consider adding 2% to 5% ethylhexyl palmitate, which is a great substitute for dimethicone in your body care products, and increase your emulsifier by 0.5%.

BASIC FACIAL MOISTURIZER RECIPE
WATER PHASE
77.5% water (you can replace 10% to all of the water with hydrosols or aloe vera)
2-5% humectant of choice
0.5% allantoin
2% hydrolyzed protein

OIL PHASE
8% oils
4% BTMS-50
2% cetyl alcohol

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% to 1% preservative
2% panthenol
0.5% extract
0.5% another extract

Super Sterol is a great addition to anhydrous products, too! Consider using Super Sterol in a body oil - you could use it in an oil based body spray like this one or this one with exotic oils, or substitute it for one of the esters in an ester based body spray.

Join me tomorrow for more formulating fun with esters as we make a hand lotion!

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Thank you.

Deb said...

i have read and re-read the post on super sterols. I see that you are formulating with it but I didn't see it in the ingredient list. What am I missing? Is a super sterol a group of ingredients? lol

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Deb. As I write in the post, "We could switch out the squalane as we're adding the Super Sterol to increase the moisturization level or add it as the 10% miscellaneous oils at the end of the recipe. Or change it for one of the oils you know your skin doesn't like!" You can substitute it for any of the oils in the recipes.