Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Esters: Formulating with IPM and IPP

I'm a big fan of both IPM and IPP - I generally add them at 2% in a lot of my creations to make it feel slightly less greasy (although I do like a greasier feeling lotion, IPP and IPM offer just enough reduction to stop me from leaving huge greasy fingerprints on my iPod touch!). You can use them up to 5% in a lotion for this effect, or even higher for something like a less greasy feeling body spray (I use 33% in this body spray for something really non-greasy feeling).

In a recent post, I used IPM to reduce the greasiness of the whipped soy butter. You can use either IPP or IPM at up to 5% to make it feel even less greasy. (Seriously try this recipe. It is really light and airy and feels dryish but still moisturizing on your skin. Switch the soy butter for another hydrogenated butter like aloe or green tea butter - and it might be less airy, but still pretty awesome!)

Here's an example of how to use IPP in a body butter (click the link for the original post)!

BASIC BODY BUTTER RECIPE
WATER PHASE
60% water
2% sodium lactate or glycerin

OIL PHASE
10% oils
15% shea butter
6% emulsifier
3% cetyl alcohol

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5 to 1% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil blend

I know if I use shea butter, this will feel quite greasy. And normally, that's how I like it. But let's add a little IPP and cetearyl ethylhexanoate to give it a less greasy, more silky feeling. You can use C12-15 alkyl benzoate as your oil as well, but I thought it'd be fun to use the cetearyl ethylhexanoate. (Although this means I can't use Cream Cheese Frosting or Clementine Cupcake as my fragrance as cetearyl ethylhexanoate doesn't play nice with vanilla based oils. How about some Pearberry instead?)

And because it's summer, I'm upping my humectants because I like those this time of year. We'll increase the glycerin and keep the sodium lactate at the same level (more than 3% can make you sun sensitive, and we don't want that during these hot months!). So let's add 3% glycerin and keep the 2% sodium lactate! You can use another humectant of choice.

BODY BUTTER RECIPE WITH SHEA BUTTER AND ESTERS

WATER PHASE
36% water
10% aloe vera
10% chamomile hydrosol
2% sodium lactate
3% glycerin

OIL PHASE
10% cetearyl ethylhexanoate
15% shea butter
7% emulsifier
3% cetyl alcohol or cetyl esters
2% IPP or IPM

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% IPP or IPM
0.5 to 1% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil blend 

The original body butter is very thick and occlusive - this will be thick and occlusive but feel drier and slightly less thick . If you wanted to make it feel drier still, you could use BTMS-50 instead of Polawax or e-wax as your emulsifier. You'll notice I didn't include any silicones in this recipe - I love dimethicone or cyclomethicone at 2% each in this recipe, but I thought I'd leave them out to see the effects of the cetearyl ethylhexanoate and the cetyl esters. It is very glidy and silky - I think I can leave them out of this recipe permanently! 

And you'll notice I've increased my emulsifier. This is because I've added the 2% IPP or IPM - yes, I should have gone to 6.5%, but my little scale that measures in 0.1 grams has died and so I can't figure out if something's between the 6% and 7%. 

I use IPP and IPM a lot in my hand lotions as I want all the goodness of the greasier oils - the linoleic acid found in sunflower and rice bran oil are great for trashed hands - but I don't want to leave greasy fingerprints everywhere. Adding 2% IPM or IPP isn't going to make your hand lotion completely dry, but it's enough that it feels like it sinks in quickly and doesn't leave a greasy feel. Adding 5% will make it feel drier still. Here's an example of my winter hand lotion and a summer fun body lotion! And here's a less greasy version of a hand lotion

As I mentioned above, I'm a huge fan of IPP and IPM, and to list all the recipes that might include it would take all day! So I'll suggest doing a search for IPM if you're interested in seeing more examples (the search button is in the upper left hand corner of the blog). 

Join me tomorrow to meet another ester - ethylhexyl palmitate! 

6 comments:

sfs said...

Hi Susan,
Your enthusiasm for formulating is contagious! I would really like to try IPP but I can't find a source for it. Do you have an online source you recommend?
Thanks

TheSoapGallery said...

Huzzah! Thank you for adding the search function!!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi sfs! The only place I have found IPP is at The Personal Formulator. If anyone knows of other places, please post the information here!

Hi TheSoapGallery! Actually, the search function is located in the upper left hand side of every Blogger blog (helpful hint there for other blogs you might read!), but since no one seems to notice it, I thought it a good idea to draw attention to it!

sfs said...

Thanks for the info on IPP. Here is a source for horsetail extract, if you are still looking for it:
www.health-marketplace.com/Horsetail.htm

Ryan said...

Hi Susan, I like BTMS-50 in my body lotion for the dryer, less greasy feel. I dropped the glycerin and am already using sodium lactate with the BTMS-50 for the less sticky feel. I got a really good deal on emulsifying wax NF and already have IPM. If I use IPM with the e-wax NF would I get the same feeling as BTMS-50?
Would I use the 2% or would I have to up it to 5%?
Thanks,
Ryan

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Ryan. Give it a try! Only you know the skin feel you are seeking, so it's hard for me to make suggestions on how to achieve those results. (For instance, I don't really like BTMS-50 lotions very much as they are too dry feeling!) You can try it at 2% or 5%. If you really want it less greasy, go with 5%.