Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Using the unintended effects of your ingredients

I've been giving a lot of thought to the down side of certain ingredients, especially in surfactant mixes. Oils can reduce your foam and lather and Crothix might thicken your mixtures and offer anti-irritancy, but it can start decreasing foam at around 5%.

So let's say you want to make a nice facial cleanser without a lot of foam and lather, which is easier to rinse and less likely to get in your eyes. Make up your usual facial cleanser recipe and add at least 5% oils - this will reduce the foam and lather and moisturize at the same time. If you're an oily skinned girl and don't want to add an oil, add 5% or more Crothix to suppress the foam and give you oil free moisturizing! (You'll want to use a surfactant mix of 25% or less or you'll get a Jell-O facial moisturizer!)

You can do the same with any of the pearlizers like glycol distearate as well, but they can coagulate at the bottom of the bottle if you go over 5% or use a very thin surfactant mix.

Or take the dry feeling of BTMS as an emulsifier. If you're like me, you like a little greasiness to your body and hand lotions, but BTMS is a great inclusion in a facial moisturizer where you want to reduce the greasy feeling and possible shine on your face. We can use all kinds of things to reduce the greasiness - IPM, mango butter, various oils - and what could be considered annoying - the feeling of extreme dryness - will feel great in other applications.

Why have I illustrated this with a body wash? For one, I'm talking about surfactants. And two, this colour isn't as pretty as it looks in the picture. It's more of a swamp green because I added 0.5% white willow bark to the mix, which adds brownness, and I tried to cover it up with green (because it's Pearberry scented). That was a bad idea...so I put it in a frosted bottle so it would be less ugly. It's still not the prettiest body wash I've made, but I like the active ingredient, so I'll keep it. (I realize an opaque malibu or tottle would have been the best choice, but I'm out of the 8 ounce ones!) So there's an unintended side effect of using white willow bark - I could make my body wash brown and scent with something like vanilla, cake, or oatmeal, milk & honey.

No comments: