This recipe is rated E+ for everyone - beginners who are a little more adventurous, those who don't wish to use preservatives, and those who are seeking an all natural product. The shelf life of this product is dependent upon the shelf life of your oils.
SOLID SCRUB BAR FOR THE BODY
50% cocoa butter
20% mango, shea or other butter
3% cetyl alcohol
4% Incroquat BTMS or Incroquat CR
2% wax of choice - beeswax, soy wax, etc. For candellia wax, please use 1% as it is very hard.
3% sodium lactate
1% fragrance oil
1% Vitamin E (if you are using oils with less than 6 months' shelf life)
Add up to 100% sugar, salt, beads, seeds, loofah, and so on. It really is your preference. If you are using sugar, you may need to add more than 100% because the sugar will melt into the warm oils - if you can stand the waiting, let it cool a bit before adding the sugar. You can add the salt right away into the hot oils. It will melt slightly, but not enough to be concering. Clay and jojoba beads will melt in the hot oils so you will need to let the mixture cool a lot - they really aren't a great choice here because you'll have to wait so long, the bar might actually solidify while you're waiting for the right temperature. Personally, I'd leave those for oil based or emulsified scrubs.
As an aside...the amazing Apres Glow Bar on the Dish uses baking soda. You can try this - add 80% exfoliant with 20% baking soda. It feels really nice.
Melt everything except the silicones, fragrance oil, and Vitamin E in a heat proof container in a double boiler until all the ingredients are well melted. Remove from the heat and add the silicones, fragrance oil, and Vitamin E. Add your exfoliant and mix well. Then pour into a mold and put in the fridge or freezer until set. Let sit for 24 hours before using.
A couple of notes...
- If you are going to add colours to this, make sure they are oil soluble - water soluble colours are going to sit there in tiny droplets and look really weird.
- The sodium lactate is in this bar as a hardener, not as a humectant, as it will wash off when rinsed.
- If you don't like silicones, then replace the dimethicone and cyclomethicone with equal amounts oils.
- If you don't have Incroquat BTMS or Incroquat CR, you can use e-wax or Polawax in its place. It's there because we want an emulsifier and a conditioning emulsifier does two great jobs in one!
I like to use a combination of sunflower, olive oil, and rice bran oils in this bar. All of these oils are light, inexpensive, with shelf lives of 6 or more months, which is always a great bonus.
- The sunflower oil offers lots of linoleic acid and a ton of phytosterols to help with inflammation with great levels of Vitamin E.
- The rice bran oil offers a balance of linoleic acid and oleic acid, which is a great moisturizing fatty acid, as well as Vitamin E, Vitamin B, and squalene. The ferulic acid in rice bran oil is great for moisturizing and weather damaged skin.
- And olive oil contains a lot of oleic acid, which is a great moisturizer, as well as squalene, for more moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory properties. It is fantastic for sun exposed skin, which is what I need at this time of year.
Here are a few ideas for modifying the solid scrub bar, but I really encourage you to read up on the various oils and butters and come up with some combinations you really love!