Wednesday, July 7, 2010
An aside...Using cationic quaternary compounds in solid scrub bars
We use cationic quaternary compounds in scrub bars because they're substantive to our skin and leave behind a lovely conditioned feeling. As well, they behave as emulsifiers so we can get those oils out of the bar and onto our skin.
You can use cetrimonium bromide, BTMS-25, BTMS-50, and Incroquat CR in any of these recipes. Each can behave as a conditioning agent and emulsifier. If you've bought BTMS-25 and don't like it in your conditioner, use it here. Or if it turns out you have far too much Incroquat CR for cream rinses, use it in this scrub!
SOLID SCRUB BAR FOR THE BODY
50% cocoa butter
20% mango, shea or other butter
3% cetyl alcohol
4% Incroquat BTMS, cetrimonium bromide, or Incroquat CR
3% sodium lactate (as a bar hardener, not a humectant)
14% oils of choice
1% fragrance oil
1% Vitamin E
If you look at the other recipes, you'll notice I have wax in there. I've been making them without wax lately and I like that feeling better, so I've taken it out and added 2% to the oils amount.
Weigh the cocoa, other butter, cetyl alcohol, Incroquat BTMS, and oils into a Pyrex jug and put into a double boiler until it melts. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70˚C. Remove from the heat, then add the sodium lactate, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, fragrance oil, and Vitamin E. Stir well.
Add your scrubby bits after you've stirred well. I like to use about 65% sugar, but you can go up to 100% sugar, salt, loofah, etc. You'll have to try it to see what you like. I have found more than 50% pumice is not great for my skin, but you might enjoy it!
If you don't like silicones, then replace them with silicone replacements or more light oils.
If you're interested in seeing why I'm using these ingredients, or want to learn more about tweaking these bars, here are a few posts...