Tuesday, July 6, 2010

An aside...Leave-in conditioners become facial moisturizers

This is a picture of my sprayable serum (left) and my sprayable lotion (right). I wouldn't put a facial moisturizer in a spray, because getting sprayed in the face isn't that pleasant when it's gooey. I do like a toner in a spray bottle, though. 

When I'm formulating a facial moisturizer, I generally start off with a recipe that contains 80% water, with the rest being oils, emulsifier, preservatives, and other goodies. I would classify it as a light lotion, and we've made two of those this week alone! (Here's a post on the breakdown of why I would include what in a moisturizer!)

BTMS-50 is my emulsifier of choice for oily skinned types because it feels drier on your skin, which is a benefit for someone who might normally feel quite oily. It works for all skin types who like that drier feeling - if that's you, then consider it as your go-to emulsifier for all your products! Plus, you're adding a little conditioning, which is never a bad thing for our skin!

This is what I consider to be my basic starting recipe for a facial moisturizer (click here for all the details and rationale for the ingredients...)

77.5% water (you can replace 10% to all of the water with hydrosols or aloe vera)
2-5% humectant of choice
0.5% allantoin
2% hydrolyzed protein

8% oils
4% BTMS-50
2% cetyl alcohol

0.5% to 1% preservative
2% panthenol
0.5% extract
0.5% another extract

The big difference between this and the sprayable or light lotions are the goodies we include. For instance, I might include olive oil in a spray for my body, but it wouldn't play nice with my rosacea prone skin - so I'll go with something like squalane, borage oil, or evening primrose oil. I might choose sodium PCA or sodium lactate as my humectant as it can be very nice for helping with break-outs, whereas someone with aging, dry, or wrinkled skin might choose something like glycerin. I might include chamomile and honeysuckle extracts for their anti-inflammatory properties, whereas someone else might like green tea and rosemary for the anti-oxidants. There are so many ways to tweak a moisturizer, but this is the basic recipe with which I like to start.

For ideas on how to modify products for your skin type, please click here for way too many posts on the topic! 

If you're interested in making moisturizers, may I suggest the following posts? To modify these using BTMS-50 as your emulsifier, just substitute the same amount of BTMS-50 for the e-wax or Polawax and you're done!
Moisturizers using BTMS-50 as the emulsifier...
Join me tomorrow as we modify other lotions using BTMS as our emulsifier!

1 comment:

TygerMae said...

Thanks so much for this. I am so going to try this.