Monday, July 5, 2010

An aside...Leave-in conditioners become light lotions with extracts and hydrosols

Yesterday we took a look at making a light, sprayable lotion using BTMS as our emulsifier. Today we'll take that basic recipe and add a few ingredients that might help with some of the issues we encounter in the summer time!

Summer means heat, so I like to modify my lotions to be less occlusive and more humectant-y during the humid months, so I'll include a little honeyquat or glycerin in my lotion on top of the sodium lactate. I don't want to use all honeyquat or glycerin as things can get a little sticky! Olive oil is a great choice for any summer time lotion as it is a humectant, so you get two great things in one - oleic acid for moisturizing, and the hygroscopic qualities for water attraction. I like to use peppermint in my products to give me that nice feeling of cooling! Finally, I generally include lavender or chamomile hydrosol in my products as I'm bound to get a little too much sun exposure at some point - even with sunscreen, I tend to get a little reddening - so I add one of those as my hydrosol, and leave the aloe at 10% for the same reason. I think I'll add the lavender as the hydrosol, the chamomile as a powdered extract, and the peppermint as an essential oil. Oh, and I think I need some panthenol in here just in case I get too much sun exposure.

Let's take a look at this modified recipe!

MODIFIED LIGHT SPRAYABLE CATIONIC LOTION FOR THE SUMMER
HEATED WATER PHASE
64% water
10% aloe vera juice or other hydrosol
10% lavender hydrosol
2% sodium lactate
2% hydrolyzed protein (I like cromoist)

HEATED OIL PHASE
2% BTMS-50
3% olive oil

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% panthenol
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
2% honeyquat
1% Vitamin E
1% peppermint essential oil
0.5% germall plus

Use the general lotion making instructions for this recipe. 

As a quick note, this lotion would be absolutely lovely as a facial moisturizer with a few tweaks. Want to see what that might look like? Then join me tomorrow for some formulating fun! 

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