Sunday, July 4, 2010

An aside...Leave-in conditioners become light lotions

You may remember way back when I started this series on conditioners, I mentioned that making a conditioner is a bit like making a lotion. You have a heated oil phase, a heated water phase, and a cool down phase. You're making an emulsion with the BTMS or cetrimonium bromide. So let's take a look at making a light, sprayable lotion with BTMS-50! If you've made any of the conditioners in this series of posts, then you've made a lotion. This one will be quite light and sprayable, which is fantastic for summer time fun!

Using BTMS-50 (and only BTMS-50, not BTMS-25) as your emulsifier will give the lotion a drier feeling, so you'll want to choose your oils well. If you like a drier feeling lotion, then go for the drier oils like avocado, hazelnut, and so on, and add a little IPM to make it feel drier still. If you like a greasier lotion, then choose the greasier oils like olive, rice bran, sesame, sunflower, soy bean, and so on.

LIGHT SPRAYABLE CATIONIC LOTION
HEATED WATER PHASE
77.5% water
10% aloe vera juice or other hydrosol
3% glycerin or humectant of choice
2% hydrolyzed protein (I like cromoist)

HEATED OIL PHASE
2% BTMS-50
3% oil of choice

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% Vitamin E
1% fragrance oil
0.5% germall plus

Note: Do not use sodium PCA or sodium lactate at 3% in the recipe as they could make you sun sensitive. Instead combine them at 2.5% or lower with another humectant like glycerin or honeyquat. Or just use them at 2.5% and up your water by 0.5%

Follow the general lotion making instructions found in this post. This will produce a light, sprayable lotion you can use with a mister bottle. Feel free to modify this recipe with other hydrosols, extracts, and other water soluble goodies like panthenol or other humectants. If you want to increase your oils, you'll have to increase the emulsifier.

If you want a few more ideas on how to make lotions with BTMS-50 as your emulsifier, here are a few posts...

Join me tomorrow to modify this recipe with some interesting extracts and hydrosols suitable for a day out at the beach! 

1 comment:

Elizabeth Aqui-Seto said...

Light sprayable lotion

I pretty much stuck to the formula, with excellent results. I like the fact that I can use a regular spray bottle for this lotion, but next time, I would like to tweak the recipe to achieve a lotion that was less dry, especially for Fall/Winter. I realize it is intended as a dry lotion.

Susan, would you change both the oil and the BTMS-50 emulsifier in order to achieve a less-dry product, but still retain the silky feel of the lotion? I also don't want to compromise on the liquidity of the product as I like using spray bottles for lotions and don't want the consistency any thicker.


HEATED WATER PHASE
77.5% water
10% aloe vera juice
3% glycerin
2% phyto keratin

HEATED OIL PHASE
2% BTMS-50
3% avocado oil

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% Vitamin E
1% fragrance oil
0.5% germall plus