Thursday, July 1, 2010

An aside...Conditioners become shaving products (part 1)

Conditioners make awesome shaving products, and you don't need to make many tweaks to get an awesome product that offers post-shaving moisturizing! You can use any of the conditioners we've made with cetrimonium bromide or BTMS-50 as shaving products...but let's tweak them to make them even more skin friendly.

I love adapting conditioner bars to be shaving bars! It doesn't take much...just look! (Originally from this post.) We add silk protein instead of oat protein for extra glide, and remove the cetrimonium chloride as it really isn't doing much for our skin.

60% Incroquat BTMS (or 30% BTMS, 30% Incroquat CR)
10% cetyl alcohol
10% butter of choice - 5% cocoa butter, 5% something else, if you wish
5% oils - I like shea oil (2.5%) and fractionated coconut oil (2.5%)
2% hydrolyzed silk protein
2% hydrolyzed oat protein (or more silk protein, if you want)

3% cationic polymer like honeyquat or polyquat 7
2% panthenol
2% dimethicone
2% cyclomethicone
2% hydrolyzed protein
2% fragrance or essential oil

Weigh into a heat proof container the Incroquat BTMS, cetyl alcohol, butter, cationic polymer, oils, silk protein, and hydrolyzed protein and place into a double boiler until they melt. Add the panthenol, dimethicone, cyclomethicone, hydrolyzed protein, and essential oil, mix well, then put into a mould and pop into the freezer or fridge until solid.

You can choose any oils you like. I chose shea and fractionated coconut oil as they are both very light and glidy on your skin, and have a very long shelf life. This is a huge consideration for making a product like this - these bars seem to last forever, so you want to choose oils with a long shelf life. If you are using something with 9 to 12 month shelf life - like sesame, olive, rice bran, and avocado (although avocado might be too dry) - you want to add 1% Vitamin E in the cool down stage. I would not recommend using any oils with a 6 month or lower shelf life as they will go rancid long before the bar is used up completely!

I find these are best made in 33 gram (1 ounce) to 45 gram (1.5 ounce) gram moulds as they seem to last forever and the larger bars are kind of annoying to swipe across your legs or face. 

Join me tomorrow for fun formulating a liquid conditioner suitable as a shaving product!


Anonymous said...

Wow, I never thought of or even considered a shaving product that was solid. I think, err make that am sure, this is be worth a try.

Not to seem unappreciative... Is there any way this recipe could be adapted to become a shaving gel like Edge or Gilette? These products are a blue gel that when used turn into a protective foam.

I'm guessing that a home made shaving gel wouldn't be "foamy" as it wouldn't be freshly dispensed from a cannister; however, that matters naught.

I wonder if it's even possible to make a shaving gel, not a "shaving soap" used with a bristle brush?

I'm sure guys aren't your target audience, but I ABSOLUTELY LOVE YOUR BLOG!

I'm a closet lotion maker and have been doing it for years thanks to a hatred of most commercial fragrances and an equal dislike of slippery hands.

How about a week of stuff for plain men?

Shaving gels (hint, hint); after shaves that aren't oily; liquid hand cleaners that don't destroy skin for working guys like me that have to wash their hands a hundred times a day; hand cream that won't make you break out if you accidentally touch your face or cause you to wreck from the steering wheel slip, a cooling foot spray that's hostile to athletes foot - think post public shower, something for the face to fight wrinkles that won't look like an oil slick (love L'Oreal Mens Vita Lift but not its' $20 price), and while I'm wishing how about a shampoo and body wash in one for the gym, and maybe something non-soapy/non-alcohol/non-drying/non-greasy that could be used as a sweaty face - like a diaper wipe for the face, and last but not least - maybe something that'll make a gallon of mouthwash that's healthy for the mouth and deodorizing (anti-garlic!), but doesn't smell like a war between candy vs permfume?

I'm done! I do love your column and bet I'm not the only guy that reads it. We've got skin, too!


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Patrick! Thanks for the great ideas. I'm not sure how to make a shaving gel - I get hints! - but I have ideas for the other products you mention. I don't really have a target audience...everyone's welcome! I wrote this post to ensure the men know I know they're out there and I don't want to leave them out of the conversation!

My husband loves my shaving bars! He used his old Nivea shaving cream the other day because he decided to shave off his goatee for Hallowe'en - he came into the computer room afterwards declaring my bars were the best and he'd never use the cream again. I was very flattered and pleased!

Look for some manly posts in the next few days as I start to recover from this evil flu!

Melanie Klar said...

LOVE your blog!!
What is the difference in usage between BTMS and BTMS50? I see that BTMS50 includes Butylene Glycol, but how do I choose between these 2 when making a shaving bar? (or anything else for that matter)

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Melanie! I've answered your question in today's Wednesday Wonderings. The short answer is that it won't make a huge difference in a bar...

Melanie said...

This shaving bar is the best!For the first time in my life my legs don't hurt all day after shaving! No razor burn! My son is a barber and he used it to shave his friend's head with a straight razor and it worked great. His only complaint is that he likes a lot of thick foam which this has none. I wonder-could I add a powdered surfactant and make it more lathery?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Melanie! I'm so glad you like this bar. I'm answering your question in Saturday, December 6th's Weekend Wondering. If you can't wait until then, the answer I'm offering is this....

Unfortunately, adding a surfactant to something this oil soluble ingredient heavy won't do much. If you want a foaming shaving product, you could try making a syndet shampoo bar with a lot of BTMS-50 and oils added to it to make it more moisturizing and glidy. In all honesty, I don't think a modified shampoo bar will offer the glide and moisturizing you get from a conditioner bar, but it's worth a try!

Zoe said...

Hi Susan:

My hubby has newly wandered in to the world of old time shaving. The shaving soap he's got, unfortunately is causing some reaction with his skin (The Shea butter or the Bergamot....I'm not sure which). So I told him that THANKS TO YOU, I can make him a shaving soap. Question: in the above recipe you have 2% hydolized protein added in both the heated and cool down phase; please advise. Also, I love the idea of using hydrolized silk protein, but it's significantly more expensive than the Oat. Is there an appreciable difference in its performance (not that he's not WORTH the silk...mind you). ;)

Also, since this doesn't lather, I'm guessing that you just get it wet and rub it on your face and then shave away?

Thank You ever so much for yet another great recipe!!!


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Zoe. Yes, there are two hydrolyzed proteins in the recipe because the silk is a great ingredient for adding slip and glide to the product and for your skin. Adding a second hydrolyzed protein that film forms - like oat or Phytokeratin - will offer more moisturizing to newly shaved skin.

My husband suggests using it straight out of the shower or tub, when your skin is warm and wet. Very lightly apply it - pass an area once - then shave. If you need to do another pass, then go over that area lightly again. You could do the hot cloth approach, but he says he finds that annoying.

Let us know how he likes it!