Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Shampoo: Conditioning shampoo bars for oily hair

Let's take a look today at making shampoo bars suitable for oily hair (because that's what I have!). The first recipe is a conditioning shampoo bar, the second a variation for clarifying shampoo bars, and the third a recipe for a 2-in-1 type product.

Powdered surfactants: We know from yesterday's post we want to include about 30% SCI (without stearic acid) and about 30% SLSa or Bioterge AS-90. (Bioterge AS-90 is the powdered form of C14-16 olefin sulfonate, which is fantastic for oily hair!)

Liquid surfactants: I like to use a combination of C14-16 olefin sulfonate or DLS mild with cocamidopropyl betaine (because cocamidopropyl betaine melts the SCI very well and makes the shampoo more gentle). If I'm using Bioterge AS-90 beads, then I'll leave out the liquid C14-16 olefin sulfonate and use DLS mild only.

Here are a few suggested surfactant combinations...(click here for surfactant posts). I'm upping the SCI because it'll be too soft with AS-90 or SCS beads.
  • 30% SCI - 30% SLSa - 15% C14-16 olefin sulfonate - 10% cocamidopropyl betaine
  • 40% SCI - 20% Bioterge AS-90 beads - 15% DLS mild - 10% cocamidopropyl betaine
  • 40% SCI - 20% SCS (powdered) - 15% C14-16 olefin sulfonate or 15% DLS mild - 10% cocamidopropyl betaine
Bar hardeners: I like to use 3% cetyl alcohol as my bar hardener as it adds a little "oil free" moisturizing to my hair and scalp, but you could use 3% stearic acid or 3% sodium lactate (as an oil free bar hardener, not a humectant as it rinses out). Cetyl alcohol works to boost the conditioning power of our cationic quaternary compounds like BTMS or cetrimonium bromide. DO NOT LEAVE OUT THE BAR HARDENER! It will result in a bar that is very soft, won't come out of the mold, and will melt quickly in your shower.

Conditioners: I like to use about 3% Incroquat BTMS-50 as the conditioner in this recipe. It will emulsify the oils and butters and other ingredients, plus it's conditioning. You can use 3% cetrimonium bromide in this capacity as well. (See some suggestions after the recipe for making this a 2-in-1 conditioning shampoo bar.)

Butters: If you're a really oily haired girl, you can leave the butters out. I like to use orange butter because it contains d-Limonene, but you could include coconut oil (great for dry ends) or another butter of your choice at up to 3%.

Hydrolyzed proteins: I like to use up to 2% in a shampoo bar. My personal preference is Cromoist because it film forms - instead of penetrating - and it's easy to find at my local supplier. You can use any protein you like!

Panthenol: You know I love this stuff, and I use it at up to 2% in the shampoo bar.

Fragrance or essential oils: I like my oily hair blend at up to 2% (equal parts rosemary, lemon or lime, sage, and cedarwood). You an use any combination you choose.

Extracts: Rosemary is a great addition to anything for oily hair or scalps, so you can use up to 0.5% in this recipe. You can add it to a little warm water, then add it into the cool down phase, or you can add it to the proteins or panthenol and dissolve it that way. Choose any extract you find works well for your hair.

You can find links to these ingredients on this page, and links to extracts on this page

Okay, so here's how the recipe looks!

CONDITIONING SHAMPOO BAR SUITABLE FOR OILY HAIR
HEATED PHASE
30% SCI (granules, without stearic acid)
30% SLSa or other powdered surfactant
15% C14-16 olefin sulfonate or DLS mild
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
3% cetyl alcohol
3% Incroquat BTMS-50 or cetrimonium bromide
2% orange butter
2% hydrolyzed protein

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% panthenol
1% dimethicone
2% essential oil blend
0.5% to 1% preservative

If you are using other surfactants, I suggest using them in the amounts listed above.

To make this into a clarifying shampoo bar, remove the 3% BTMS-50 and 1% dimethicone and replace them with 4% emulsifying wax of some kind. This will allow the oils to emulsify to moisturize your hair, but won't condition it!

If you want to make this a 2-in-1 conditioning shampoo bar, you can increase the dimethicone and BTMS-50, and add a cationic polymer like honeyquat or polyquat 7.

2-IN-1 SHAMPOO BAR SUITABLE FOR OILY HAIR
HEATED PHASE
30% SCI (granules, without stearic acid)
25% SLSa or other powdered surfactant
10% C14-16 olefin sulfonate or DLS mild
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
3% cetyl alcohol
5% Incroquat BTMS-50 or cetrimonium bromide
2% orange butter
2% hydrolyzed protein
5% cationic polymer - polyquat 7 or honeyquat

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% panthenol
4% dimethicone
2% essential oil blend
0.5% to 1% preservative

Join me tomorrow for more fun with shampoo bars - formulating for dry hair types!

7 comments:

Tara said...

Do you have a link to where you purchase orange butter? I know you've posted it before, but I believe the link was broken when I tried to look.

Thanks!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Tara! I get mine from Soapcraft.ca in Maple Ridge, B.C. I love this stuff! And Karen's service is amazing - I ordered from her Monday morning and received it in Tuesday's mail!

Naomi said...

Hi Susan!

I am having a hard time finding SCI without stearic (prills) in the US. I purchased SCI flakes from The Herbarie but they don't carry the prills. Do you know where I can purchase the SCI without stearic?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Naomi. Sorry, off the top of my head I don't know of anywhere in the States carrying SCI prills or granules. You could try looking up a few other suppliers (sorry, don't have the URLs handy...)
Majestic Mountain Sage
Southern Soapers
Snowdrift Farms
The Chemistry Store

If you're on the Dish, in the marketplace section there's a permanent stickie at the top of the first section for on-line suppliers. There might be something of interest there (and the URLs for the stores listed above).

As a note, if you're making shampoo bars for oily hair, you can use the SCI with the stearic. It won't kill your hair - it will offer some moisturizing and you might get a little oilier a little quicker than you'd like, but it will still work well. Just make sure you're using C14-16 olefin sulfonate or DLS mild as your other surfactant!

Christina said...

So I love this bar but wanted a smidgeon more conditioning.
I did btms-50 at 3.25% and butters (mango) at 3%
It feels good (just used it: day 1), but I'm an oily haired girl with frizzy (extremely) hair.
Is this considered a conditioning bar? Will it weigh it down over time?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Christina! If you have added conditioning agents and you feel it is conditioning, it's a conditioning bar. I don't know if it will weigh your hair down over time as I don't know you, your hair, your climate, your lifestyle, and so on, which are all factors. I can tell you as an oily haired girl with frizzy hair that it doesn't weigh my hair down...

ME G said...

Hi Susan, can we add cetrimonium chloride in shampoo bar, if not why and if yes how much- i remember you've mentioned tha CETAC can make shampoo thinner?
Thank you, Irina.