Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Shampoo: Conditioning shampoo bars for oily hair

Let's take a look today at making shampoo bars suitable for oily hair (because that's what I have!). The first recipe is a conditioning shampoo bar, the second a variation for clarifying shampoo bars, and the third a recipe for a 2-in-1 type product.

Powdered surfactants: We know from yesterday's post we want to include about 30% SCI (without stearic acid) and about 30% SLSa or Bioterge AS-90. (Bioterge AS-90 is the powdered form of C14-16 olefin sulfonate, which is fantastic for oily hair!)

Liquid surfactants: I like to use a combination of C14-16 olefin sulfonate or DLS mild with cocamidopropyl betaine (because cocamidopropyl betaine melts the SCI very well and makes the shampoo more gentle). If I'm using Bioterge AS-90 beads, then I'll leave out the liquid C14-16 olefin sulfonate and use DLS mild only.

Here are a few suggested surfactant combinations...(click here for surfactant posts). I'm upping the SCI because it'll be too soft with AS-90 or SCS beads.
  • 30% SCI - 30% SLSa - 15% C14-16 olefin sulfonate - 10% cocamidopropyl betaine
  • 40% SCI - 20% Bioterge AS-90 beads - 15% DLS mild - 10% cocamidopropyl betaine
  • 40% SCI - 20% SCS (powdered) - 15% C14-16 olefin sulfonate or 15% DLS mild - 10% cocamidopropyl betaine
Bar hardeners: I like to use 3% cetyl alcohol as my bar hardener as it adds a little "oil free" moisturizing to my hair and scalp, but you could use 3% stearic acid or 3% sodium lactate (as an oil free bar hardener, not a humectant as it rinses out). Cetyl alcohol works to boost the conditioning power of our cationic quaternary compounds like BTMS or cetrimonium bromide. DO NOT LEAVE OUT THE BAR HARDENER! It will result in a bar that is very soft, won't come out of the mold, and will melt quickly in your shower.

Conditioners: I like to use about 3% Incroquat BTMS-50 as the conditioner in this recipe. It will emulsify the oils and butters and other ingredients, plus it's conditioning. You can use 3% cetrimonium bromide in this capacity as well. (See some suggestions after the recipe for making this a 2-in-1 conditioning shampoo bar.)

Butters: If you're a really oily haired girl, you can leave the butters out. I like to use orange butter because it contains d-Limonene, but you could include coconut oil (great for dry ends) or another butter of your choice at up to 3%.

Hydrolyzed proteins: I like to use up to 2% in a shampoo bar. My personal preference is Cromoist because it film forms - instead of penetrating - and it's easy to find at my local supplier. You can use any protein you like!

Panthenol: You know I love this stuff, and I use it at up to 2% in the shampoo bar.

Fragrance or essential oils: I like my oily hair blend at up to 2% (equal parts rosemary, lemon or lime, sage, and cedarwood). You an use any combination you choose.

Extracts: Rosemary is a great addition to anything for oily hair or scalps, so you can use up to 0.5% in this recipe. You can add it to a little warm water, then add it into the cool down phase, or you can add it to the proteins or panthenol and dissolve it that way. Choose any extract you find works well for your hair.

You can find links to these ingredients on this page, and links to extracts on this page

Okay, so here's how the recipe looks!

30% SCI (granules, without stearic acid)
30% SLSa or other powdered surfactant
15% C14-16 olefin sulfonate or DLS mild
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
3% cetyl alcohol
3% Incroquat BTMS-50 or cetrimonium bromide
2% orange butter
2% hydrolyzed protein

2% panthenol
1% dimethicone
2% essential oil blend
0.5% to 1% preservative

If you are using other surfactants, I suggest using them in the amounts listed above.

To make this into a clarifying shampoo bar, remove the 3% BTMS-50 and 1% dimethicone and replace them with 4% emulsifying wax of some kind. This will allow the oils to emulsify to moisturize your hair, but won't condition it!

If you want to make this a 2-in-1 conditioning shampoo bar, you can increase the dimethicone and BTMS-50, and add a cationic polymer like honeyquat or polyquat 7.

30% SCI (granules, without stearic acid)
25% SLSa or other powdered surfactant
10% C14-16 olefin sulfonate or DLS mild
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
3% cetyl alcohol
5% Incroquat BTMS-50 or cetrimonium bromide
2% orange butter
2% hydrolyzed protein
5% cationic polymer - polyquat 7 or honeyquat

2% panthenol
4% dimethicone
2% essential oil blend
0.5% to 1% preservative

Join me tomorrow for more fun with shampoo bars - formulating for dry hair types!


Tara said...

Do you have a link to where you purchase orange butter? I know you've posted it before, but I believe the link was broken when I tried to look.


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Tara! I get mine from in Maple Ridge, B.C. I love this stuff! And Karen's service is amazing - I ordered from her Monday morning and received it in Tuesday's mail!

Naomi said...

Hi Susan!

I am having a hard time finding SCI without stearic (prills) in the US. I purchased SCI flakes from The Herbarie but they don't carry the prills. Do you know where I can purchase the SCI without stearic?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Naomi. Sorry, off the top of my head I don't know of anywhere in the States carrying SCI prills or granules. You could try looking up a few other suppliers (sorry, don't have the URLs handy...)
Majestic Mountain Sage
Southern Soapers
Snowdrift Farms
The Chemistry Store

If you're on the Dish, in the marketplace section there's a permanent stickie at the top of the first section for on-line suppliers. There might be something of interest there (and the URLs for the stores listed above).

As a note, if you're making shampoo bars for oily hair, you can use the SCI with the stearic. It won't kill your hair - it will offer some moisturizing and you might get a little oilier a little quicker than you'd like, but it will still work well. Just make sure you're using C14-16 olefin sulfonate or DLS mild as your other surfactant!

Christina said...

So I love this bar but wanted a smidgeon more conditioning.
I did btms-50 at 3.25% and butters (mango) at 3%
It feels good (just used it: day 1), but I'm an oily haired girl with frizzy (extremely) hair.
Is this considered a conditioning bar? Will it weigh it down over time?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Christina! If you have added conditioning agents and you feel it is conditioning, it's a conditioning bar. I don't know if it will weigh your hair down over time as I don't know you, your hair, your climate, your lifestyle, and so on, which are all factors. I can tell you as an oily haired girl with frizzy hair that it doesn't weigh my hair down...

ME G said...

Hi Susan, can we add cetrimonium chloride in shampoo bar, if not why and if yes how much- i remember you've mentioned tha CETAC can make shampoo thinner?
Thank you, Irina.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi ME G! Yes, you can. Up to 2% or so works well. It can make the shampoo thinner, but it doesn't affect a shampoo bar.

Mayra Flores said...

Hi!! I want to make this for my mom. She has keratin treated hair and has to use sulfate free shampoo. Would this bar qualify as that? I am horrible at working with % but I will figure it out lol. Thanks for being so generous and sharing.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Mayra. Yes, depending on the ingredients you choose. Sulfate free refers to using sodium lauryl sulfate, something I don't use in my products as there are so many nice surfactants to choose from and I prefer those. If you don't add that to the product, it'll be sulfate free.

CC Mirabella said...

I'm curious if anyone knows how to go about adding sodium chloride to a shampoo bar? I happened to see lush does this with one of their bars & my daughter has very oily hair...I've made a few different oily hair shampoos that I learned from right here, and they work for a while then I have to change it for her as it seems to stop working..sometimes she'll add magnesium to her hair while shampooing & that helps I know we can thicken with the salt curve our normal shampoos & other surfactant products I'm just curious how we may go about adding a lot of salt to liquid shampoo or to a shampoo bar & if anyone's tried this?
I' will have to post my clay shampoo formula as that was awesome for her too for a while ...I'll do that when I get home from vacation

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Tracey! Thanks for the question, and sorry for the delay in responding. The short answer is sure, add some salt! The longer answer is found in Saturday, June 16th's weekend wonderings!

And we'd love to see your clay shampoo recipe!

huulik turnkytz said...

Hi! I was wondering what should I replace few ingredients with if I would like to make the shampoobar from natural ingredients? The sodium cocoyl isethionate obviously, but What about the other surfactant? Also I dont want to use any other synthetic ingredients. Thanks!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Huulik. It sounds like you will need someone to formulate an all new formula for you if you have those kinds of expectations. Check out Chemists' Corner's forums to find someone with whom you can contract.

CC Mirabella said...

Hi Susan I've been meaning to get in here to post my clay shampoo for oily hair but even though everything is in order by date I've no clue where it went! Not sure if when I switched out my hair care notebook if a page flew away ...I'm super careful so I can look back each year but occasionally something eludes me & wouldn't you know every time I attempt to make it again it separates! The clay comes out of it & its layered! Anyway for now I'm posting my clay shampoo bars for oily hair this is the longest my daughter has been able to use ANYTHING without switching it up & I'd never have been able to do it without all you share so kindly to us all so thank you!!!
Phase A
25% SCI
9% C14-16 (liquid)
9% Coca betaine
After melting the SCI in the liquid surfactants
Phase B
24% SLSa (powder)
5% BTMS 50
3% cetyl alcohol
2% orange butter
2% hydrolyzed wheat protein
I make sure everything is melted thoroughly & stirred well
Phase C
10% clay or clay mix I usually use 2 rhassoul & multani mitti each at 5%
I make sure these are also incorporated really well before adding the rest
Cool down
5% cat poly
2% d pants liquid
4% dimethicone
.5-1% preservative
This puts me over 100% I know but I add d limone @ 1% and rosemary ego sometimes lemongrass ECT
And I have added sodium chloride at 2% & magnesium sulfate also they've all been successful at least for my daughter...panic sets in when she sees we're down to one bar lol
Thank you again