Saturday, June 12, 2010

Conditioners: Using silicones in anti-frizz sprays

If you look at the ingredients in anti-frizz sprays or sera, you'll see two ingredients (and variations thereon) - cyclomethicone and dimethicone. It's not hard to make one of these at home. The big difference between the serum and the spray - the serum tends to use the higher c.s. dimethicone (thicker), whereas the spray tends to use the lower c.s. dimethicone (thinner).

BASIC ANTI-FRIZZ SPRAY
90% cyclomethicone
10% dimethicone (can be 350 cs to 1000 cs)

Get a spray bottle and put it on a scale. Measure your cyclomethicone and dimethicone. Put on cap. Shake well. Enjoy.

I like to use this after my leave in conditioner but before brushing my hair.

BASIC ANTI-FRIZZ SERUM
70% cyclomethicone
30% dimethicone (preferably 1000 cs).

Get a bottle with a dropper and put it on your scale. Follow the directions as above. Enjoy.

If you want to add some oils to this kind of product, add up to 10% oil of choice in place of 10% of the cyclomethicone. You can add some of the silicone replacements in these ingredients, but they will make your hair oilier than if you are using silicones.

28 comments:

Anonymous said...

What's the difference between the 2 formulas other than the difference in percentage used?

Which one is a better anti frizz?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

It just depends on what you're looking for in a product. If you need some defrizzing, then both products are good for that purpose. The serum is thicker and will offer more anti-frizzing properties and will last longer as an anti-frizz product than the spray. If you let your hair air dry, you'll want to go with the defrizzing spray as your may dry faster with it.

Both offer anti-frizzing properties - some people just like the feeling of the serum over the spray.

Anonymous said...

I assume Cyclomethicone is much more watery compare to Dimethicone 1000ds thus it's used as 70% in spray?

Ingredient wise, both Dimethicone & Cyclomethicone serve the same purposes for anti-frizz & have no difference in terms of quality?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Dimethicone and cyclomethicone have very different purposes which are detailed in the previous posts I wrote on the topic (linked in this post above). I really encourage you to take a look at both of those posts to learn more about these silicones - I didn't want to repeat everything in this post!

Cyclomethicone is very watery, on par with water, while dimethicone 350 cs is thicker and dimethicone 1000 cs is much much thicker than that. I use 90% cyclomethicone in the spray to keep it sprayable - 10% dimethicone will offer some good de-frizzing properties. I use it at 70% in the serum because I want to keep the qualities of cyclomethicone - the quicker spreading, the quicker drying time - but want more of the dimethicone's qualities to help with even more de-frizzing properties. Plus it might help with some heat protecting properties - but I don't want to make that guarantee as I've not tested it for that purpose.

Marjolein said...

I really like this frizz spray but now am looking to add silk to it... And there my knowledge stops. Liquid silk is waterbased so i guess i have to use an emulsifier now.. Btms with silicones as i learned from your blog :)
How would you reccomend for me to adjust the silicon spray to incorporate a bit of waterbased ingredient susan? Thank you in advance!!!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Marjolein! I've answered your question in today's Weekend Wonderings.

Marjolein said...

Thank you for the answer susan!

Amber said...

Hi Susan, do you have any plans of posting a firm-hold hair spray tutorial?
This seems to be one of the few recipes I can't find a satisfactory version of anywhere online.
An old sugar water / lemon juice recipe must have been reposted thousands of times on various DIY blogs, but it's just not elegant enough to be a decent alternative to what I can buy in the shops..
I'd love it if you could help!
Amber

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Amber. Here's one I've found...

HAIR SPRAY (PUMP DRIVEN)
Vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymer 3%
AMP 0.24%
Dimethicone copolyol 0.10%
Propylene glycol 1%
fragrance (as wished)
alcohol (denatured) to 100%

AMP is an amino alcohol that will ensure the spray residues can be removed more easily during shampooing. Dimethicone copolyol is the conditioning agent. The propylene glycol is a humectant and a plasticizer. Because there's so much alcohol in it, you don't need to worry about using a preservative. For the vinyl acetate stuff, think about using the Fixate brand stuff. I can't tell you where to get it as I can't find it any more, but it's a great ingredient. I used to use it in gels.

Why would anyone want to use sugar and lemon in their hair? What a terrible idea! The sugar is a humectant, and will draw water to the hair as well as being super sticky, and the lemon will lighten the hair and damage it. I would stick to the store bought stuff!

Hope this helps!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Sorry, I forgot all about PVP, which you can get at the Personal Formulator. It's a good choice for the vinyl acetate stuff. And you can get the AMP there, too.

Melissa A said...

I just tried making the serum. Does it clear up once it settles? Will it seperate after a while? I used the above "recipe" adding argan oil and subtracting the 10% cyclo.

I really enjoy your blog. Thanks for the help!

pat bortolin said...

Hi Susan, great info. I made this spray today, it really is lovely and so simple thanks.

Hobbiz said...

My friends found that the anti-friz Spray did make her hair stick together. Probably it was because she has oily hair? Hence, I wonder this recipe for all hair type or just not for oily hair? If for oily hair, do you think what ingredient i should add in? Thanks.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Hobbiz. This product can be used for all hair types. I have very oily hair and it works great for me, and I've made it with my youth programs for years and they all report good results, and believe me, the kids in my groups have oily hair!

Sorry, but I don't understand what it means for her hair to stick together.

Hobbiz said...

Thanks Susan. I meant her hair did not defrizz but otherwise. My other friend's oily hair got the same thing. I think I should try the water based sprayer with Cetac instead?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Hobbiz. I have no idea what to suggest as you are experiencing results I've never had before or have heard from anyone else. You can try making a detangler or leave in conditioner, but they won't necessarily help with defrizzing as well as the silicones do. If your friends didn't get help from the silicones, I fear they may not get help from anything else.

Hobbiz said...

Thanks Susan. Love your enthusiasm. :D

Ruth said...

Hi Susan, I want to use the spray but have fine (fly-away) hair and worried it will weigh my hair down too much. I note in other posts that you recommend people with fine hair use lesser amounts of silicones when making other products. Perhaps an all silicone spray is not a good idea? Do you have any suggestions - should I just make a leave-in conditioner with 1% dimethicone and 1% cyclomethicone?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Ruth! You can use this spray, just don't put too much on your hair. Or make a leave in conditioner. The only way to know is to try both recipes and see how you like it! Only make 100 gram batches and try it for a few days.

Baby Kat said...

Wonderful! Exactly what I needed to help manage my fine, frizzy hair. And I have the ingredients already! Thanks again.

Nico said...

Hey Susan! I made the anti frizz serum with virgin coconut oil and it worked so well, my mom actually took it from my vanity and claimed it as her own. Haha! I made another one with avocado oil instead and, I don't know why, but it turned out different. The formula became cloudy and would actually separate! I made it another time to check and it did the same thing. Is this normal? The only ingredient I changed is the avocado oil. It's very strange.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Nico! Could you write up your exact recipe in percentages and post it here so I can help further. I have a feeling I know what the problem might be, but I'd really like to see what the first recipe was and what the second one was. Oh, and please include the process you followed to make the product. Thanks!

Nico said...

Hey Susan! I actually just followed your recipe on here. 60% cyclomethicone, 30% dimethicone and 10% avocado oil for both times. I left them overnight and found that the avocado oil has completely separated from the cyclomethicone and dimethicone mix. As for the process, I measured out my ingredients and added them one by one into my container. Cyclomethicone first, dimethicone next, I shook it a little at this point then added the avocado oil. I had the same process for the vco mix, and same percentage, but I don't think I shook the ingredients until the end.

Fox Fan said...

Good morning Susan

I am reading your books and the blog and those are fantastic. I am learning a lot. I have a short question. I would like to make the anti-frizz without the Dimethicone. How can i replace the dimethicone %.

Thank in advance,

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Fox Fan! You can't. The main de-frizzing agent in an anti-frizz spray is dimethicone. You can try a water soluble ingredient like bamboo isoflavones on its own or try using broccoli seed oil on its own, but nothing compares to dimethicone. I haven't found anything like dimethicone in another ingredient. Sorry...

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Nico. That's because they have different specific gravity, and they will separate over time. Just shake them up and they'll come together so you can use it.

Camirra Williamson said...

my serum still came out pretty losse. with 30% dimethicome. I will have to still use a spray. but it works really well. I exchanged 10% of the cyclomethicone for abyssian oil and the mix came out cloudy. could this be from the oil being added? that being said it has had to effect on the performance. Also the oil eventually seperates from the mix, is this normal?

Camirra Williamson said...

oh nevermind my comment! I just saw the answer above! i'll just shake it up thanks