Thursday, June 10, 2010

Conditioners: Specific extracts & hydrosols

Yesterday we added hydrosols and extracts to our conditioner to make a good, basic conditioner. Today we'll take a look at tweaking the basic recipe for specific hair types.

Aloe vera is a good inclusion for most, if not all, hair types. It's a film former and humectant, which means it can draw water to your hair, which offers moisturizing. It can soften and reduce the electrical charges on your hair, so if you live in a very dry climate or have too many fly-aways, aloe vera might be a good addition to your product. If you're a frizzy haired type girl in a damp climate, this might not be the best inclusion, but it works well for non-frizzy and dry hair, and can be a great addition for someone with a sensitive scalp.

Rosemary essential oil, extract, and hydrosol contain ursolic acid, which creates a film on your hair and scalp to reduce transepidermal water loss and prevent irritation. It also acts as an astringent, which is great for oily hair and scalp types. 

Chamomile extract and hydrosol offer good anti-inflammatory and anti-irritation qualities, and it can reduce trans-epidermal water loss, leading to an increase in moisturization of our scalps.

Clary sage essential oil and hydrosol are great for oily scalps, and it offers a film that will moisturize.

Lavender hydrosol soothes irritated skin.

Rose hydrosol might help to control sebum and is reduces irritation.

Peppermint hydrosol can offer tingling and cooling and can increase circulation. (Menthol and peppermint essential oils are also great additions).

Orange flower or neroli hydrosol can help with sebum control and inflammation.

Grapeseed extract might help control oil and can help with increased cell proliferation (like dandruff).

So for someone with oily hair, a little clary sage, rose, orange blossom, or  rosemary hydrosol coupled with some grapeseed or rosemary extract might be good additions to a conditioner.

For someone with dandruff, grapeseed extract with some anti-sebum ingredients like rosemary hydrosol or extract might be a good idea along with some anti-bacterial botanicals like tea tree oil, white willow bark (for exfoliation), or comfrey root.

For someone with dry hair, anything that increases moisturization to the scalp is a good choice, so you might want to consider using aloe vera with chamomile or ginseng extract. There are so many variations, but here are a few examples.

If I were to make a conditioner for oily hair, I might make something like this...

ORANGE & GRAPESEED OILY HAIR CONDITIONER
HEATED PHASE
7% BTMS
20% orange hydrosol
72% water

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% preservative (liquid Germall Plus)
1% oily hair essential oil blend 
0.5% powdered grapeseed extract

Oily hair essential oil blend: Equal parts rosemary, clary sage, cedarwood, and lime or lemon essential oils. 

If I were to make this for dry hair, I want to include the cetyl alcohol at 3.5% for increased substantivity. And I think I'll use aloe vera for the increased moisturization and film forming qualities, with chamomile extract for more moisturization.

ALOE & CHAMOMILE CONDITIONER FOR DRY HAIR
HEATED PHASE
7% BTMS
3.5% cetyl alcohol
20% aloe vera
68.5% water

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% fragrance or essential oil blend
0.5% to 1% preservative
0.5% powdered chamomile extract

For normal hair, you can choose whatever you want, depending on which way your hair leans - oily or dry. I'll make up a conditioner with aloe vera and peppermint hydrosol, which will offer a minty tingle, with some peppermint essential oil at 1%. For our extracts, let's throw in some green tea for the tannins and anti-oxidants.

ALOE, GREEN TEA & PEPPERMINT CONDITIONER FOR NORMAL HAIR
HEATED PHASE
7% BTMS
20% aloe vera
10% peppermint hydrosol
71% water

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% peppermint essential oil
0.5% to 1% preservative
0.5% powdered green tea extract

If you have liquid green tea extract, add it at 5% in the water phase and remove 5% of the water.

All of these recipes can be made using the general or the alternate conditioner instructions.

Feel free to try various combinations to see how your hair likes it. (You can try these combinations in any of the conditioners I'll be posting, not just the ones I've posted here!)

Join me tomorrow for fun including proteins in our conditioners! 

1 comment:

Dina Aruni Saffanah said...

hi susan, your blog give me so much inspiration, i really thank to you. My question is, can i use extract instead of hydrosol in hair formula? whats the diffrent actually?