Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Conditioners: Modifying the leave-in conditioner with cetrimonium bromide

So how can we modify a leave-in conditioner? We looked at the basic recipe yesterday, and we've already tweaked this to include oils, so what can we do next? Let's try using another cationic quaternary compound!

Cetrimonium bromide is a great cationic quaternary compound for those of us with damaged hair. Let's use that as the basis for our leave-in conditioner.

What else can benefit really damaged hair? We know adding a fatty alcohol to a conditioner increases the substantivity, so let's add 1% cetyl alcohol to this recipe (you can use cetearyl alcohol, if you have it). We know coconut oil is fantastic for all hair types, so let's include that - or another oil of choice - at 2% for normal haired girls and 4% for dry haired girls. We can include our proteins and film formers and humectants as well to create an awesome leave in conditioner!

79.5% water
2% cetrimonium bromide
1% cetyl alcohol
2% hydrolyzed protein
2% coconut oil or other oil of choice
4% glycerin

2% cetrimonium chloride
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
2% panthenol
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% fragrance oil

To modify this for dry hair, add 2% more oils to the heated phase and remove 2% water.
To modify this for oily hair, remove the oils and add 2% water to the heated phase.
If you don't like humectants then remove the glycerin and add 4% to the water phase.
If you don't have cetrimonium chloride, then leave it out and add 2% to your water phase.
Use the general or alternate instructions for making conditioners.

This will be thicker than our usual leave in conditioners with the inclusion of the cetyl alcohol, glycerin, and oils, so you'll want to put this in some kind of disc cap or pump bottle.

What else can we do with a leave in conditioner? Join me tomorrow for fun formulating leave in products with Incroquat CR!

1 comment:

Aesthete said...

Hi Susan, I read on that centronium bromide and chloride are safe up to .25% for leave on applications
Correct me if I'm wrong, that only pertains to skin care products...?