Sunday, June 20, 2010

Conditioners: Modifying cream rinses

I sincerely doubt Farrah Fawcett managed to keep her hair in good condition with all that styling and Aquanet using just a cream rinse, but those were the olden days when we had to wash our hair with rocks and straighten our hair with irons, and the only conditioners we really had were cream rinses. And we had to walk five miles in the snow to buy it! 

Yesterday we took a look at the basic cream rinse recipe - today, let's see how we can modify it. We know a cream rinse is intended to reduce static charge and increase the smooth feeling of our hair, but we can add a little detangling to the product with cetrimonium chloride, add some hydrolyzed proteins, throw in some hydrosols and extracts, or use a little aloe vera to give this a little oomph!

89% water
7% Incroquat CR
2% cetrimonium chloride

0.5% to 1% preservative
1% fragrance oil

The reason I've upped the Incroquat CR in this recipe? Because the cetrimonium chloride will thin out this cream rinse to almost water at 3%!

With any cream rinse, you can include all the water soluble goodies - 2% panthenol, 2% hydrolyzed protein, aloe vera, hydrosols, extracts - but you can't add a ton of oils or silicones as they simply won't emulsify well (which leaves a really icky oil-floating-on-top-of-water kind of thing going on...ask me how I know!)

75% water
10% aloe vera or hydrosol of choice
7% Incroquat CR
2% cetrimonium chloride
2% hydrolyzed protein

2% panthenol
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% fragrance oil
0.5% powdered extract (optional)

Use the general or alternate instructions for all of these recipes.

All of these recipes are suitable for all hair types as detanglers and softeners!

Join me tomorrow for special considerations for products for fine hair! 


Nancy Lindquist-Liedel said...

I'll have you know I still have Aquanet. Yes, they still make it and I have used it theatrical work where my hair had to stand straight up. Outdoors even. Stuffs magic and it actually washes out with shampoo. Probably deadly, but I looked ghastly. :)

Musicmom said...

Thank you so much Swift!

I know this may not be conditioning enough for some people but I loved it. My hair is fine and oily (woe betide me according to your book) and for me this was the bomb. I made this exact recipe and used grapeseed extract as well as a twitch of yuzu fragrance oil from brambleberry. I love it. Thank you for this recipe.

Elaine Hair&Body said...

Hi love the information you have posted. I am creating a creamy leave-in conditioner and I am using BTMS-50 2% and Cetearyl Alcohol 1% along with 4 oils at 1% each. Is the percentage of BTMS-50 and Cetearyl alcohol enough to make it creamy. Oh I am not using any silicones and my preservative is Phenoxyethanol-SA 1% which is broad-spectrum.