Saturday, June 19, 2010

Conditioners: Cream rinses

So what's the difference between a conditioner and a cream rinse? A cream rinse is basically a detangler that should eliminate fly-aways (reduce static charge), and give our hair a smooth feeling. A conditioner also has these goals, but offers an increase in glossiness or lustre, an increase in body or volume, and may include moisturizing and anti-frizz agents. Cream rinses are great for those with unprocessed or fine hair as they won't include a ton of ingredients that will weigh down that hair type. (These are great for kids with really tangly hair!)

So what do we use as the base of a cream rinse? We use something like Incroquat CR, a cationic quaternary compound that doesn't contain a lot of moisturizers and isn't a great emulsifier (which is irrelevant here as we aren't adding oils to these recipes), or cetrimonium chloride, which is a great detangling ingredient. Neither of these are really long chain cationic quaternary compounds, so they offer less conditioning to our hair but more detangling. Both offer a reduction in static charge, and both make our hair feel smooth. (You can also use Incroquat OSC at low levels in cream rinses, but I still have to make a conditioner including this ingredient, so I can't comment on it yet.)

You can also use BTMS-50 and cetrimonium chloride in a cream rinse, but we want to use them at very low levels and leave out the oils and silicones.

BASIC RINSE OFF CREAM RINSE
HEATED PHASE
91% to 95% water
3% to 7%  Incroquat CR

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% fragrance oil

Pretty basic, eh? Yet the Incroquat CR will offer some great softening, detangling, and anti-static properties suitable for any hair type.

Join me tomorrow for more fun creating cream rinses!

3 comments:

kontakt said...

I fail to see if you have some space on your blog specific for questions not related to a blog, so I'll post it here. Hope that is okay.

Do you have any suggestions for textbooks on cosmetics chemistry? Also, lists of cosmetic ingredients and their limitations regarding temperaturs, pH etc. would be a great thing to have access to. Your blog is a simplified textbook in cosmetic chemistry, in a way! and a good one, too. But if possible I'd like to dig a tad bit deeper.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I've written a post on researching ingredients here, and there are a few suggestions for finding out the information you seek. I always go to manufacturers' sites to get the data bulletins, which offer tons of information on solubility, miscibility, pH, melting and boiling points, and so on. I'd suggest registering with the various manufacturers so you can access that information.

As for textbooks, my favourites are:
Handbook of Cosmetic Science & Technology (I use 3rd edition, Poucher's Perfumes (10th edition), and I'm currently reading Surfactants: Strategic Personal Care Ingredients.

There's a great list of textbooks at the Chemist's Corner. I just received the Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry textbook (written by the author of the blog) and I'll be putting up a review of it shortly.

Hope this helps...

kontakt said...

Most of my suppliers are pretty crappy at giving information on what they are actually selling but I never thought of going to the manufacturer's websites. Plenty of good material and suggestions! Thanks a lot!