Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Conditioners: Adding oils to leave-in conditioners

We know that adding oils to leave-in conditioners works well for dry and curly hair types, especially those who aren't fond of silicones. Oils can reduce the impact of combing forces on wet hair by up to 20%, which can reduce potential damage to the cuticle. And oils can increase the shine and gloss of your hair, so it's all good - unless you're an oily haired girl (if you must use something like this, keep it away from your scalp!). 

Here's the basic recipe for a leave-in conditioner...

1 to 2% Incroquat BTMS or cetrimonium bromide
0.5% to 1% preservative
up to 1% fragrance or essential oil

We've seen how we can modify our conditioners with aloe, hydrosols, extracts, proteins, and silicones, so let's put it all together. By now, I hope you know how to modify this to include or leave something out you don't like. If you're removing ingredients, add that percentage to the water. If you're adding ingredients, remove that percentage from the water.

68.5% water
10% aloe vera
4% glycerin
1% hydrolyzed protein of choice

2% Incroquat BTMS
2% cetrimonium chloride
up to 4% oils of choice (2% for normal hair, 4% for dry hair)

2% cationic polymer (like honeyquat or polyquat 7)
1% panthenol
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
1% fragrance oil
.5% to 1% preservative (I use liquid germall plus)

Use the general conditioner instructions for this recipe.

Join me tomorrow for fun formulating conditioners with butters! 


Anonymous said...

Hello, I have just found your blog due to searching the internet looking for how to produce my own line of conditioners. My hair is naturally curly and after searching high and low for a product that suits my hair I turned to conditioner. Not leave in conditioner, just regular conditioner. I shampoo and condition my hair then add more conditioner and leave it to dry naturally. Over the years hundreds of people have commented on my hair and asked what I use. Also while travelling to New Zealand I found out that a lot of the Maori people use moisturizer on their hair as it is so thick and frizzy. After reading your blog on the differences of conditioners I was a bit worried that what i'm doing may be bad for my hair and that it would not be the best product to produce? When going to the hairdressers they always seem to think my hair is in good condition. It would be great to hear your advice. JoFro

Diane said...

Do you ever add citric acid to any of your recipes to regulate the PH balance or do you find that you don't have to?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Diane. No, I don't have to add citric acid to adjust the pH as the conditioners I make are pH balanced for hair. All the ingredients in a conditioner are acidic, so there's no reason a conditioner would be anything other than acidic!

T. Wallace said...

Hi!~ I just made this recipe without silicones (sharing with family who don't like them) and it is great!

74.25% water
10% aloe vera
4% vegetable glycerin
.5% hydrolyzed wheat protein
.5% silk amino acids
2% Incroquat BTMS
.25% cetrimonium chloride
2.5% coconut oil
1% avocado oil
.5% macadamia nut oil
2% honeyquat
1% panthenol
1% fragrance oil
1% preservative

I'm African-American and growing out a relaxer, so working with two different textures is a challenge. BUT! This leave-in is amazing - my hair is so soft & I can't stop touching it. Thank you for this recipe, Susan!
~ Tracy

Pat Luna said...

Hi Susan, I just make this recipe using 4% oils (argan, coconut oil, avocado and Babassu oil, 1% each) and my curly hair loves it. Thank you.