shampoo conditioning? The conditioners, of course! A shampoo without conditioners is called a clarifying shampoo and it's intended to remove styling products (although I used it when my hair was extremely oily as they don't tend to contain moisturizers, either). The shampoo we made yesterday would be considered a clarifying shampoo as it only contained surfactants, water, thickeners, hair goodies, and preservatives.
Why put conditioner in a shampoo? If you remember the posts on damaged hair, friction is our enemy, and we want to do everything in our power to reduce the combing forces and friction our hair experiences. By including conditioning agents, we decrease the friction caused by washing, conditioning, and wet combing.
As a quick note, do not try including something like BTMS or cetrimonium bromide in a shampoo. These are cationic compounds and they do not play well with surfactants as they aren't water soluble and will just precipitate out into a gooey mess. For conditioning in a surfactant based creation, you'll want to use the cationic polymers like polyquat 7, honeyquat, or Celquat H-100.
So let's make a conditioning shampoo suitable for normal hair to demonstrate how to use the various ingredients from yesterday's post. The goals of creating a shampoo for normal hair is to cleanse the hair (surfactants), offer some conditioning (conditioning polymers), and some film forming (aloe vera and cromoist), and panthenol. We'll also want a thickener - I'll use Crothix here - and a nice fragrance or essential oil. I'm including glycerin as both a humectant and a bubble improver!
I'll be using some surfactants good for normal hair - SLeS or ALeS, SMC or SMO taurate, and cocamidopropyl betaine. I also like using BSB or LSB in place of the SMC taurate (as it's hard for me to get in Canada). Choose any combination of surfactants you like.
CONDITIONING SHAMPOO RECIPE FOR NORMAL HAIR
15% SMC or SMO taurate (or BSB or LSB)
10% aloe vera
10% Amphosol CG
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
2% dimethicone or condition-eze 7
2% essential oils
(optional) 0.5% extract
up to 2% Crothix
0.5% Germall Plus or 1.0% Germaben II
Colour, if desired
This will make a nice conditioning shampoo that should be followed up with a conditioner!
Let's say you're not a fan of silicones - include some water soluble oils at up to 4% (like PEG-7 olivate) and leave out the dimethicone. Or say you don't like aloe vera because it can act as a humectant, leave it out, or include another hydrosol you like. This is an easily modified recipe - you saw how we built on the basic recipe from the other day - so include or exclude various ingredients that you feel will benefit your hair.
If you're a normal haired girl with frizzy hair, make sure you are using high molecular weight proteins like oat (I use Cromoist) because you don't need the internal moisturizing. If you have curly hair, you might want to consider the higher molecular weight proteins for more internal moisturizing.
If you're an oily or dry haired girl, a few small modifications to this recipe will work well for you (for instance, if you use LSB, you're getting your sulfosuccinates good for mildly oily hair, so this recipe will work well untweaked!)
Tune in tomorrow for more fun with conditioning shampoos for oily hair, then Wednesday for dry hair!