Sunday, May 30, 2010

Shampoo: Making a 2-in-1 conditioning shampoo (normal to oily hair)

I admit I'm not the biggest fan of the all in one kind of product - but then again, I have long, coarse hair that likes some serious conditioning without oils, so who am I to talk? - but we can make one by modifying yesterday's daily use shampoo with only a few tweaks!

Someone using a 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner type product is probably washing his or her hair every day, so we want to reduce the surfactant concentration to 13% to 15% (similar to a daily use shampoo). We want to use anionic surfactants suitable for our hair type and add the 5% amphoteric surfactant (cocamidopropyl betaine) to increase mildness and thickening.

We'll increase the conditioning agents to 5% (polyquat 7 or honeyquat - Celquat H-100 at 5% would make a gel!) and increase the dimethicone to about 4%. Dry haired girls can increase some of the emollients - add a little PEG-7 cocoate or water soluble oil at up to 4% - to make their hair feel more moisturized. Oh, and we'll need to include our Crothix to thicken (up to 5% when the mixture has cooled) or up to 3% glycol distearate. I'm still including the aloe vera as a film former and because the extra electrolytes will help thicken what will be a very thin mixture! Oh, and don't forget the glycerin. This will behave as a lovely humectant. (If you're a frizzy haired girl, reduce this to 2% and increase your water amount.)

Ideally in this recipe we'd be using a water soluble dimethicone (click here for the raspberry water soluble dimethicone at the Herbarie) as it will deposit on your hair better than our regular dimethicone...but I don't have any. So I'll use our regular dimethicone with conditioning agents to make a 2 in 1. If you have water soluble dimethicone, use it at up to 4% in this shampoo.

A quick note: If you can get cetrimonium chloride, add it to this recipe at 2%. It will not only leave hair feeling really soft and detangled, but it can remove silicone build up from styling products! Chck out the post on this topic in about 45 minutes!

55% water
8% anionic surfactant
5% cocamidopropyl betaine
5% polyquat 7 or honeyquat
5% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed protein
10% aloe vera

4% dimethicone or water soluble dimethicone
2% panthenol
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% fragrance oil or essential oil

2% liquid Crothix

You can make this one cold, but let the mixture complete settle and the fragrance oil completely incorporate in your shampoo before adding the Crothix. Depending upon the fragrance oil, you may need more than 2% Crothix. This isn't a bad thing - it adds mildness to your creation.

You can turn any of your favourite shampoo recipes into a 2-in-1 by increasing the conditioning agents, reducing the surfactants, and adding more dimethicone. Give it a try!

Join me tomorrow to modify the conditioning shampoo for dry hair! 


Banner said...

Hi Susan! I've been following your blog and its fascinating. I finally decided to give it a try. I tried using something similar to this formula. But I didnt put panthenol, aloe and protein to my product cause its quite difficult to find them here in the Philippines. I put light oils in the cool down stage equivalent to about 1%. My problem is it seems quite dry when i use it in the shower. There is alot of friction when I rinse it off. What can do to improve the product. Many thanks!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Banner. What surfactants did you use? Did you include the dimethicone and cationic polymer? By losing the humectants - the panthenol and aloe - and losing the protein, you are losing a lot of the slip and glide in the product.

Can you let me know, and I might be more useful in answering your question!

Banner said...

Hi Susan. Thanks for your reply. I used 15% sles and 10% coco betaine. i also put 2% dimethicone and another 2% of pq7. i used 2.5% glycerin and 0.25% olive oil & 0.75% sunflower oil (oils in the cool down stage though) as humectants. Thanks!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Banner. I'd increase the dimethicone and polyquat 7 to 3% each (at least), but I really do encourage you to get a protein or aloe or something more humectanty in there if you want more slip. You can increase your surfactants to a higher level - you can go as high as 25% SLeS and 15% cocamidpropyl betaine - which will give you more slip. But I really think the lack of the protein, aloe, panthenol, and other humectanty ingredient is what is causing the problem.

How did you thicken the product? I forgot to ask and this can have a huge impact. Using something like Crothix will make it very moisturizing and slippery.

Banner said...

Hi Susan! Thanks for the inputs. I used industrial salt to thicken the product.

Leman said...

Hi Susan, I hope you don't mind me posting here as this was an old post but after receiving your hair care ebook I thought I'd give this a try!

I used C14-16 olefin sulfonate as my anionic surfactant. The shampoo does not foam at all!! And I washed my hair in the evening and it was greasy by the morning! I don't have Crothix to thicken but I used salt and could not thicken it.
Any help would be very much appreciated.

Sasha said...


Do you think this recipe would work without the silicones? I can't source any at the moment...


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Sasha. Are you using the polyquat? To make a conditioning or 2-in-1 shampoo, you need a conditioning agent. If you aren't using the silicones, you'd need to use polyquat to get the conditioning quality. Without either of them, you have a clarifying shampoo.

Sasha said...

Hi Susan and thank you for the reply. I have honeyquat, but I am not sure how good it will be for my curly, fine and frizzy hair (I live in England, so quite humid). It will be my first try in shampoo making and I will use everything in the recipe, apart from the silicones, aloe vera and crothix. Hopefully it still has detangling and conditioning properties.

Sasha said...

I was also thinking to add some hemp or similar oil in a small percentage.

res ipsa loquitur said...

Hi Susan,

you mention using CETAC in this shampoo along with dimethicone. You state that the CETAC will remove silicones from hair. Will it interfere with the deposition of the silicone in the formula?

Part 2: It is my understanding that mixing silicones with cationic guar suspensions prior to adding to the formula can increase the deposition of the silicone to hair. Do you have any experience with this?

thanks and Happy (late) Canada Day

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Boyce. I don't like cationic guar and I've only worked with it a few times, so I'm afraid I can't be of any help there. As for this recipe, I don't have all that fancy testing equipment to see if it is deposited, but it certainly feels like it is! Sorry, that's the best I can offer by way of an answer!

Ruth said...

Hi Susan, I want to make a shampoo for my almost 2 year old daughter, and couldn't find a post. I thought the 2 in 1 might be the best idea. I don't think there are any issues with using this recipe on a young child, provided I use the mild surfactants (thinking decyl glucoside, maybe SCI - I've got the one with stearic acid), but do you have any suggested changes or comments? TIA!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Ruth. Are you saying that you didn't find any recipes for shampoo on the blog? There are dozens of recipes you can review in the hair care section of the blog using all kinds of surfactants.

Ruth said...

Hi Susan, no I found lots of shampoo recipes thanks! I meant I didn't find any ones specific for kids... Was just wondering how ingredients should be adjusted for them ie less surfactants? any ingredients to avoid? Any help appreciated :-)