Saturday, May 29, 2010

Shampoo: Creating a daily use shampoo

How does a daily use shampoo differ from a not-daily use shampoo? A daily use shampoo is intended to be used every day, whereas a regular shampoo would be used every 3 to 4 days. It will contain about half the amount of surfactants in a normal shampoo because we don't want to strip away too much sebum, which would lead to dry hair and scalp. (You will recall one way of increasing mildness is to reduce the amount of surfactants in our products!)

This type of shampoo is suitable for dry hair types as a not-daily-use shampoo and for normal to oily hair types as a daily use shampoo. This would be a great choice for people with very fine hair as a not-daily-use shampoo.

A disclaimer here...I don't believe in washing your hair every day, unless you're using a ton of styling products that will make your hair stick to your pillow. A little sebum is good for your hair and scalp, and there's nothing wrong with going a few days or more without washing, especially if you're a dry haired girl. If you're worried about your hair getting messed up at night, I suggest looking into a snood or hair net. It really will keep your hair in one place throughout the night and reduce the friction, which reduces damage. If you're worried about your hair smelling oily - it'll take more than a few days for that to happen. But you can use a scented oil absorbing dry shampoo or mister (more on this shortly) to take out bad odours. (We really need Febreeze for people!) But if you want to wash your hair every day - let's say you're a really oily girl - a daily use shampoo is the best way to go.

So what's different here? My goal here is to increase the mildness, so I'm reducing all the cleansing type stuff in this shampoo, but I'm keeping the conditioners, hydrolyzed proteins, film formers, and panthenol the same as we want to keep our hair healthy and these ingredients will also help increase mildness. Since you're likely putting your hair through some potential damage - brushing, blow drying, straightening or curling - you will want to follow this up with a really good conditioner. (You can use an intense conditioner, regardless of hair type as you're not really worried about it being greasy tomorrow!)

We'll want to use about 8% to 10% anionic surfactants and up to 5% amphoteric surfactants. (I have some suggestions for surfactant choices after the recipe...)

64% water
8% anionic surfactant
5% cocamidopropyl betaine
3% polyquat 7 or honeyquat
3% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed protein
10% aloe vera

2% dimethicone
2% panthenol
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% fragrance oil or essential oil

Use the general shampoo making instructions for this recipe.

Point of interest: I've heard back from readers of this blog and I have to warn you, this will be a very thin concoction. You need a thickener of some type, and there aren't enough surfactants in here to use the salt curve. You will want to use a minimum of 2% glycol distearate in the heated phase or 2% to 5% Crothix after it has cooled. If you choose a vanilla or citrus based fragrance oil, it will become even thinner, so choose something that won't thin your surfactant mix. If you leave out the aloe vera, you'll have even more trouble thickening it as the aloe vera adds extra salt to the mix.

If you find this isn't as lathery as you'd like, increase the anionic surfactant up to 15% and reduce the water by up to 7%. If you're using SCI with stearic acid, remember it will thicken more than the SCI without stearic acid.

Substitute your favourite surfactant for the anionic surfactant listed in the recipe...
  • For dry haired girls, consider using 8% SCI (with stearic acid), decyl glucoside, or SMC or SMO taurate as your anionic surfactant. BSB or a baby blend concentrate would also be a very nice choice. 
  • For normal haired girls, use whichever surfactants you like. ALeS or SLeS is a good choice, as is pretty much every other surfactant. 
  • For oily haired girls, use DLS mild (sulfosuccinate), SCI (without stearic acid), or C14-16 olefin sulfonate. LSB (with sulfosuccinate) would be a nice choice as well. 
If you like oils in your shampoo, may I suggest using up to 4% with a 1:1 ratio of solubilizer - like polysorbate 80 - or a water soluble oil (like PEG-7 olivate).

You can modify your favourite shampoo recipe by decreasing the surfactants and increasing the water and thickeners. So if you have something you really love, just water it down! 

Join me tomorrow for making a 2-in-1 conditioning shampoo! 


Topcat said...

Very interesting! Thanks Susan :)

lamon said...

Susan!!! thank you so much for your sharing.
It' s nice post and useful for me.

April said...

when you list aloe vera, what form of it are you using?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I'm using aloe vera liquid from Voyageur. It's like a juice, very liquidy.

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan, I need to wash my hair 2 times a day because i train 2 times a day, and i am afraid to damage my hair... do you have any suggestions? i use you solid shampoo recipe and have been for the past year, i absolutly love it, but i would like to modify for this period of intense training! Can you please help me out?
thank you

Nathalie :)

LadyBird said...

I want to make an aloe vera juice based shampoo, is it possible to switch out the water with the aloe juice completely? Is it a good idea too?


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Nathalie. How do you want to modify the recipe? Are you find it too cleansing for your hair? It sounds like you want to turn it into a daily shampoo type thing...

Hi Ladybird. While it is possible to substitute all aloe vera or any hydrosol for the water, there's probably no point in doing it in a shampoo as you'll be rinsing it out and won't get all the benefits. You can use a larger amount in your conditioner, though.

The aloe vera is in most of my recipes for its lovely qualities but also to behave as an ingredient with tons of electrolytes and salts to help thicken the surfactant mix. If you don't use it in some of the recipes - like this one - you'll get far less thickening with the Crothix or salt curve than you would if you did use aloe vera.

Anonymous said...

that is correct Susan, since i shampoo 2 times a day, my hair is dry now, so i was wondering if i could modify it to be a milder daily shampoo lol if its possible


Nathalie :)

Debora said...

Thank you so much for all of this wonderful information. I wouls really like to make the basic shampoo recipe. I have normal hair with a little gray starting to show up. I do color my hair but I use a demi color (dose not lift).

One thing I am curious about is the sultrates (sp). I have been avoiding shampoos with them present, as I have read and been told they are damaging to the hair. But I also notice when I read the lables on certain shampoos they are listed as a main ingredient (usually second in the list). Seeing how your recipe has a small percentage, does that make them better for the hair?

Can you please tell me where I can buy the products you list in your recipe.

Again, thank you for sharing your wealth of information

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Debra. I have written about the various surfactants in this section of the blog - surfactants - and you can find out more about hair care along with tons of recipes for shampoo, conditioners, and leave in products in the hair care section. I wrote this post on which surfactants you might wish to buy, but these are just my suggestions.

Not all sulfates are the same, as you'll see if you go through the surfactant sections and read about them, but SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate) is considered to be a harsh detergent, not a gentle cleanser like the other ones (sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate), and it's really only that one we avoid. The other sulfates are considered mild to gentle cleansers and are good inclusions in shampoos and other creations.

Please note, this recipe is very thin and might be considered watery. If you click on the hair care link above, you'll see a ton of different recipes for different hair types.

Living Consciously said...

On the Daily Use Shampoo for All Hair types, could I use Guar Gum to thicken it?

I don't think I could use Xanthan Gum if I use the honeyquat, correct?

Also, do you have suggestions on something I could use instead of the Dimethicone?

I have also purched your Lotion Making 101 book and been very successful in making lotions. Thanks bunches for taking the time.


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Living Consciously. You can try guar gum to thicken the product, or you could get something like Ritathix, which is considered a natural thickener. I've never used guar gum to thicken a shampoo, so I can't speak to whether it will work well or not. As for silicone substitutes, I just wrote about this in the Weekend Wonderings for Saturday so check out that post.

Brandi Yates said...

I have fine, thin hair and this shampoo recipe works for me. I also included the volumizing complex from the formulator shop.

It is very thin and watery with 2% crothix. I dont mind that its watery. It also doesnt lather very much. Even though it is watery with little lather my hair feels very clean. I used Dls mild with mine and oat protein. I have been having hair loss issues with my regular Suave shampoo and even Nioxin. My hair feels stronger with this recipe. I am also noticing less hair falling out. I have several different surfactants and dls mild is my favorite so far.

Michelle Squyars said...

I have a couple of questions about this formula. For the aloe vera, I have a 100% powdered AV. Can I use that, but at 0.1% instead of 10%? If I increase the amount of Aloe Vera, would it help to thicken the solution?
Finally, could I use arrowroot as a thickener?
Thank you for your assistance.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Michelle. Use your aloe vera at the suggested usage rates from your supplier. If they say that 0.1% of your powder is equal to 10% aloe vera, then use that! I really recommend asking them as I'm not familiar with your ingredient.

As for arrowroot, I don't know. Try it on a small amount and put the bottle aside for a week or so to see what happens. I would definitely suggest using the maximum preservative for hard to preserve ingredients, like Germaben II, for instance, if you're using this ingredient.

Carolyn Openshaw said...

Is it OK when adding Panthenol as a powder to this product, that you put in Phase A ?

Carolyn Openshaw said...

I have SCI without Stearic Acid. I have been trying to find information on your blog that indicates how much stearic acid I would add. I thought I read same about, i.e., for this recipe 8% but now I'm second guessing and can't find. Would you mind commenting.

Thank you

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Carolyn! If you're making this recipe, why not try it without the stearic acid and see what happens? Adding stearic acid to a liquid product is a pain in the bum, and there are other ways to get moisturizing in this product, through oils or glycol distearate, to name a few possibilities.

Carolyn Openshaw said...

My problem was the SCI flakes did not melt. So I thought adding stearic acid might help. I'll try again but grind the flakes and see if that helps. This was the first time I had used SCI flakes so its a learning experience.

Bhavana Doshi said...

hi can I use Sodium Lauroyl sarcosinate as a anionic surfactant?

Thank u