Thursday, May 27, 2010

Shampoo: A conditioning shampoo with SCI for dry hair.

I love SCI - as if you hadn't noticed yet! - and we can make moisturizing and conditioning shampoos for dry or normal to oily hair by using either the type with stearic acid or the type without. Today we'll be using the type with stearic acid (check with your supplier, but if you have the flakes or noodles you likely have stearic acid type SCI), and tomorrow we'll take a look at using the stuff without for oily hair types!

Yesterday, we took a look at a conditioning shampoo for dry hair. If we add a little SCI with stearic acid, we can make this a creamy feeling shampoo that makes our hair feel conditioned afterwards. You can use the glycol distearate at 2% in this recipe to give it a more pearlized look! If you include both the SCI and glycol distearate, you shouldn't need to include any extra Crothix (although if you're using citrus or vanilla based fragrance or essential oils, you might thin the mixture enough to need just a titch!)

50% water
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% SCI (with stearic acid)
5% SMC taurate or decyl glucoside
10% aloe vera
2% glycol distearate
5% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed protein

3% cationic polymer like honeyquat or polyquat 7
2% dimethicone
2% panthenol
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% to 2% fragrance or essential oils
(up to 2% Crothix - when cooled down - optional)

Remember to melt your SCI with your cocamidopropyl betaine first while heating the other ingredients in a separate container. Then add them together and heat until they mix together well. Don't heat the cool down phase - add it when the mixture has been removed from the heat and allowed to come to 45˚C. 

This may end up being very thick - too thick for your taste - so feel free to reduce the SCI to 5% and increase the liquid surfactant (SMC taurate or decyl glucoside) to 10%. You can also increase the water amount, if you wish. Also, feel free to remove the glycol distearate - we already have some nice emollients in the form of stearic acid in the SCI, so the glycol distearate may be too moisturizing for some.

If you want to make this as a clarifying shampoo, take out the 3% cationic polymer and 2% dimethicone and increase the water amount by 5%. That was easy, eh?

Can we make this lovely conditioned-feeling concoction for normal to oily hair? Yes! Join me tomorrow for that recipe!


Lien said...

I only have the SCI powder. How much Stearic would I have to add to get the creamyness?

Thanks in advance for any info :D

Kind regards,

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

You will get a lovely creaminess with SCI in general, but if you want more moisturizing and extra creaminess, I'd suggest adding some emollients (like we see in this recipe or adding some glycol distearate at 2%. Or checking out the recipe I'm posting tomorrow, which uses SCI without stearic.

As for emollients, you can include a ton of different oil-type things as moisturizers, including water soluble oils, cocamide DEA, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, oils mixed 1:1 with polysorbate 80.

If you're feeling bold, you can try using 2% stearic acid in the heated phase of your shampoo, but it will precipitate out and leave a gooey mess on the bottom of your bottle eventually. This is only suitable for small bottles of thick shampoo. (I suggest this only as an experiment...)

Or you could make a shampoo bar (coming up shortly...) to which you can add stearic acid.

I would check if your SCI contains stearic with your supplier. Some of the powders do contain stearic acid.

Lien said...

Thanks Susan :D

I did it, added 3% Stearic to the total. And no gooey mess yet, looks great, smells great, feels great too!

We'll see what happens tomorrow hehe

Looking forward to the next topics! And many thanks again.


Anonymous said...

do you have any formula on milk bath which contain surfactant for very very dry skin?

what about bath oils?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

If you do a search, you'll see I have some bath oil recipes on the blog. Why do you want to include a surfactant in a milk bath? Are you looking for a foaming bath?

Anonymous said...

i was actually trying to do up a shower foam which contains oil like shower oil kind. but its really hard though.

maybe one day u get interested in the idea & try it out?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I have already made something similar - do a search for body wash with oils or the Dove Moisturizing Body Wash replication. This might be something that interests you.

Nedeia said...

What it is not clear to me yet... how much stearic acid should I add to a product (% or SCI, not % of total product). As I understand it, your suggestion is to add 2% of the total recipe. Am I correct? shouldn't I calculate referring to the SCI amount and not the total amount?

Rahy said...


Just looking at the recipe above, in what form is the Aloe vera? powder or butter?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Rahy. It's a liquid....

Edilee said...

what is SCI?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Edilee. Click the link in the post to see more about SCI.

Eve said...

Hi Susan,
I've been formulating for two years now but have never done anything involving surfactants. I'd love to start making my own shampoo, and I was just wondering if it's possible to make this recipe with just the cocomidapropyl betaine and SCI, or is there a reason such as viscosity that this wouldn't work? I don't have a pH meter so am not terribly keen to purchase any decyl glucoside, though I trust that all your recipes are pH balanced as are (I have very dry, frizzy hair so am a little paranoid about what I put on it!). Many thanks for your wonderful blog - I stumbled across it whilst researching the ingredients in a cleanser three years ago and you are the sole reason that I got into formulating, something which brings me enormous joy now, and I have learnt so much from you! All the best, Eve

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Eve! I'm so glad the blog encouraged you to make products! Yay! You have made me so happy!

Yes, you can make the product with more SCI or more cocamidopropyl betaine. The viscosity will be different, maybe a little thicker?

Let us know how it turns out!

Eve said...

Great, thank you so much for your response! I'm just ordering my surfactants now (so exciting!) and have decided to get a small quantity of decyl glucoside too, so I can try it both ways - I'll let you know how it turns out.

Eve said...

Hi Susan,
I tried this recipe using 12.5% each of cocamidopropyl betaine and SCI with no decyl glucoside (and no crothix) and really liked it! It was a bit thick, but lathered nicely, cleaned effectively and left my hair feeling very soft and manageable. To do a comparison, I also made a version with the 5% decyl glucoside (again with no crothix). It had a consistency closer to that of shop-bought shampoo and was similarly lovely, although I think the first version might b slightly more conditioning. It was nice to know that it could be made without the decyl glucoside, though. Thank you so much for your wonderful recipes - I'll never buy shampoo (or shower gel once I get some time!) again, and it's so satisfying to make such a fantastic product!
Best wishes, Eve

Eve said...

Ooh, and another thing I though I'd share - I love formulating but rarely get much time for it, so making scrub bars is a luxury I usually can't afford. I don't really like scrubs that aren't emulsified, though, so I realised that by adding in some solubiliser to the oil and sugar I could have an almost-instant scrub! I'm sure you've thought of this, as it isn't exactly rocket science, but just thought I'd share in case anyone else hadn't. I use about 15% polysorbate 80, which is enough to get most of the oil to rinse off but leave a slight feeling of moisturization.

PrettyAliceMoon said...

Hi- I read another of your posts talking about the different kinds of shampoos, moisturizing, conditioning, daily, etc., and was wondering would this recipe be considered moisturizing as well as conditioning? Also where do you order these specialized ingredients? Is there a certain shop online that sells them? I'd like to try to make this liquid shampoo but have no idea where to get the ingredients. Thanks so much!

Synara Usama said...

hi susan just wondering I only have amphosol cg and cocamidopropyl betaine....can I make shampoo with these surfactants

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Synara! Take a look at the INCI or International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients name on your product, and you'll see you actually have two bottles of cocamidopropyl betaine. So the short answer is no, you can't make a shampoo with only that surfactant. It's far too mild for even the driest hair.

Camirra Williamson said...

you know what funny susan? I think that the brand Curls Blueberry bliss sells a "hair wash" as they call it with only cocamidopropyl betaine and thickener and a perlalizer basically. lol it bubbles up but you know its beasically not cleaning a thing. customers say its so "moisturizing" . Im like your hair isn't clean at all the product just bubbles up hahaha!!! I need to start selling this stuff myself lol

LOI: Purified Water, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycerin, Glycol Stearate, Polyquaterni-um-10, Certified Organic Blueberry Fruit Extract, Certified Organic Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Certified Organic Anthemis Nobilis Flower (Chamomile) Extract, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Polyquaternium-7, Cocamide DIPA, Fragrance, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Copper PCA, Citric Acid.