Friday, May 28, 2010

Shampoo: A conditioning shampoo with SCI for normal to oily hair.

I did mention my love of SCI, right? With a few small modifications, we can alter the recipe intended for dry hair for normal to oily haired girls who love SCI as much as I do!

First off, make sure you are using the SCI without stearic acid - the granules like Jordapon prilled contain no stearic acid - if you are an oily haired or normal-to-oily haired girl. Although we love the moisturizing offered by stearic acid, this is a sure way to find yourself greasy in a really short period of time. (And if you're washing your hair every day, you really want to use a daily use shampoo, which we'll cover tomorrow! This recipe kinda straddles the surfactant amounts for daily use vs. twice to thrice weekly use shampoo...)

We're also reducing the amount of glycerin (our humectant) because we don't need as much moisturizing as the dry haired girls. And you might want to choose something like hydrolyzed oat protein or another high molecular weight protein instead of silk for its film forming characteristics.

53% water
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% SCI (without stearic acid)
5% surfactant of choice (SLeS, SMC Taurate, a blend, and so on)
10% aloe vera
2% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed protein

3% cationic polymer like honeyquat or polyquat 7
2% dimethicone
2% panthenol
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% to 2% fragrance or essential oils
(up to 2% Crothix - when cooled down - optional)

For oily hair, I'd suggest using 5% SCI (without stearic acid) and 10% surfactant of choice (C14-16 olefin sulfonate or a sulfosuccinate like DLS mild) for more oil removal. As well, oily haired girls might want to leave out the dimethicone and conditioning agents if you're finding your hair doesn't feel squeaky clean after washing: Save those for your conditioner (this also means it's now a clarifying shampoo).

As a quick point of interest, this is fragranced with Froot Loops, a fragrance oil designed by Melissa. It's equal parts Cream Cheese Frosting (Brambleberry or Soapcraft) and Lemon Curd! Delicious! 

Join me tomorrow for making a daily use shampoo for all hair types! 


keratin shampoo said...

I was actually searching something different on Google, but found this post and i’m glad i did, thank you so much , this is great post.

Naomi said...

Hi Susan,

I made a version of this shampoo using ACI (I didn't have SCI w/o stearic) and DLS mild. I added 3% Jojoba and 2% Cetrimonium Chloride. I have normal to oily hair and my goal is to get good scalp cleaning (I tried your conditioning shampoo for oily hair and it made my hair too squeaky, though I didn't add the Cetrimonium Chloride...). I liked the creaminess but I would like more lather. Is it the Jojoba that kills the foam? Should I remove it? Or could I try subbing Coconut oil as it promotes lather?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Naomi. Coconut oil only promotes lather in soap when it has been saponified so it won't make a difference here (other than being awesome for your hair, but leave that for the conditioner). The addition of any oils will reduce your lather, so the only way to compensate for it is to increase the surfactant amount or change surfactants (I wouldn't suggest a change!).

Your ACI is a liquid, right? If so, I'd suggest trying this recipe to increase your surfactants - conditioning shampoo for oily hair - as it has 40% surfactants vs. 25% in this recipe!

Naomi said...

Thanks! I'll try the other recipe.

Aesthete said...

Hello Susan. You've got me hooked on SCI. I have the kind with stearic acid in it. I'm slightly on the oily hair side and was wondering if i should still try it in this recipe. Would removing the dimethicone compensate for the extra conditioning from the SCI? or would it be a waste of ingredients? thank you for continuously sharing with us.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Aesthete. I'd use the SCI with stearic and see how you like it. I used it for years as it was the only one I could get, and I found it worked really well, but I wanted to get a third day out of my very oily hair, so I switched to the non-stearic acid kind. The stearic acid is a moisturizer, not a conditioner, so taking out the dimethicone shouldn't have that big an impact...having said this, I took the dimethicone out of my last batch and I have found my husband's hair is responding well to less conditioning, so there's something to say about removing it (which is, if you want to, remove it!) I haven't found a change in my hair with removing it, but my hair is less oily than his.

Rocio said...

Dear Susan:

I have a question, for DAILY USE SHAMPOO FOR ALL HAIR TYPES, if i use SLeS as anionic surfactant. Do I have to use 8% too?

Thanks for your help

Best Regards

couleur said...

I made this today with 5% decylglucoside and why is it so liquidy? Shouldn't SCI make it thicker?

Tracy Carlin said...

Hi Susan,

I was wondering if CETAC could be the the 5% surfactant of choice in this formula? I have SCI and cocamidopropyl betaine which will serve as my main surfactants and plan to stay with your recommendations and am looking forward to trying this out. Thank you for your feedback!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Tracy. No, CETAC isn't a surfactant in the sense of being a foamy and lathery one that would work as a shampoo ingredient. It can be included as a conditioning agent, but it won't wash your hair.

Fatima Issa said...

Hi Susan

Can you tell me why another surfactant is needed? Wouldn't this work perfectly fine with just the two?

Thanks :-)

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Fatima! I use three surfactants as I want different things from them. From the SCI I want a creamy lather and conditioned hair feel afterwards. From the cocamidopropyl betaine I want mildness and thickening. From the SMC taurate I want high foaming and high lather with gentle cleansing that would be suitable for dry to normal hair. If I switched the latter to disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, I'd get a surfactant more suitable for normal to oily hair as it's better at removing sebum and oil gently than SMC taurate. By mixing and matching the different surfactants, I can customize the blend I want for cleansing, foaming, lathering, bubbling, and so on.

This is a good idea for a longer post. I think I'll do one this weekend!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Fatima. I have written a longer post about your question. You can find it as Sunday, March 8th's Weekend Wonderings.

Rachel said...

Hello Susan

I'm in a bit of a pickle with my shampoo blend. I have made 8 batches of the recipe above and each time the blend separates after about 2 weeks (clear bottom half and creamy sludgy top half). At first I thought it may turn clear over time but NO, just stays half and half. Really bugs me as I don't care if it is clear OR creamy but would really just like it to be one or the other! The only changes I made were to include 5% Lauryl Glucoside as the third surfactant (I don't have SMC taurate) and I omitted the dimethicone, but other than this the recipe was the same. What have I done wrong? I made sure the SCI was fully melted into the Coco Betaine before adding the lauryl glucoside and the other ingredients. I also tried the recipe with Cocoglucoside instead of lauryl but the same thing happened. I'm totally at a loss. Any ideas?