Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Shampoo: A conditioning shampoo for dry hair.

Making a conditioning shampoo for dry hair is a little harder than making shampoo for normal or oily hair. For dry hair, we want to focus on mild surfactants, increasing the mildness of those surfactants, and increasing the emolliency. Dry haired girls should never ever shampoo without conditioning, and we'll increase the conditioning power of the shampoo through the use of the various cationic polymers. (Click here for an idea for an intense conditioner...)

We'll start by decreasing the surfactant concentration in this shampoo as we know this is a way of increasing mildness. Normally I like to use 40% or so, but in this case let's go for 25%. We'll keep our cocamidopropyl betaine at 10% (thickening, increase in mildness) and we'll choose some dry hair friendly surfactants like SMC or SMO taurate or decyl glucoside. (I'll work with SCI with stearic acid in a future post). Since I am not a fan of having to play around with the pH of my shampoo, I'll choose SMC taurate over decyl glucoside. (Although realistically, the amount of decyl glucoside in this recipe won't raise the pH too much, I really hate working with pH levels with my strips! I need a pH meter!)

We'll also start by adding emollients to the mix. We can use something like glycol distearate (EZ Pearl) at 2% to increase the emolliency (as well as thickening). We can also include something like cocamide DEA or PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate to increase the emolliency and thickening. You can use a water soluble oil if you wish (at up to 4%) or make an oil soluble by mixing it at a 1:1 ratio with polysorbate 80 or another suitable solubilizer. (This will create a more opaque creation.)

And we'll increase the conditioning power of this shampoo by adding our honeyquat or polyquat 7.

Dry hair likes humectants, so we'll want to include some glycerin at 5% (good humectant, increases lather and bubbles). Panthenol is always good, so let's include that at 2% (if you have fine dry hair, you can increase this to 5% but it is better used in our conditioners at that level). I'd also recommend using low molecular weight silk proteins that will penetrate the hair shaft to increase the moisturization of your hair. You can use something like Phyotkeratin - which includes a mix of high and low molecular proteins - to penetrate your hair shaft and film form at the same time. Oh, and 10% aloe vera will help with film forming and thickening the mixture through the extra salts!

Finally, we can add some dimethicone at 2% to our mixture to help with conditioning. If you don't like silicone, leave it out, or use a silicone alternative.

So let's take a look at our conditioning shampoo for dry hair!

CONDITIONING SHAMPOO FOR DRY HAIR WITH GLYCOL DISTEARATE
HEATED PHASE
47% water
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
15% SMC taurate or decyl glucoside (or a combination your hair likes)
10% aloe vera
2% glycol distearate
5% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed protein

COOL DOWN PHASE
3% cationic polymer like honeyquat or polyquat 7
2% dimethicone
2% panthenol
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% to 2% fragrance or essential oils
(up to 2% Crothix - when cooled down - optional)

Heat the heated phase to 65˚C and mix together well until the EZ Pearl is incorporated. (I have found that heating the EZ Pearl in one container, the other ingredients in another until the EZ Pearl has melted, then incorporating the two containers works well). Make sure you are not seeing any little shards of glycol distearate in the mix.

When the mixture has cooled to 45C or lower, add the cool down ingredients.

You may need to include up to 2% Crothix if you are using fragrance oils that include vanilla or other surfactant thinning fragrances. Add this when the product has cooled completely and can sit for at least 24 hours (preferably longer).

Let's say you're not a fan of the pearlized look or you don't want to heat your ingredients for a long time - we could moisturize hair through the use of emollients like the PEG-7 cocoate or cocamide DEA. You could even use something like a water soluble oil - PEG-7 olivate is a nice choice, but any water soluble oil will do! How would this formula look?

CONDITIONING SHAMPOO FOR DRY HAIR WITH PEG-7 COCOATE, COCAMIDE DEA, OR WATER SOLUBLE OILS
PHASE A
46% water
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
15% SMC taurate or decyl glucoside
10% aloe vera
3% PEG-7 cocoate or cocamide DEA or water soluble oils
5% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed protein

PHASE B
3% cationic polymer like honeyquat or polyquat 7 
2% dimethicone
2% panthenol
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% to 2% fragrance or essential oils
(up to 2% Crothix - when cooled down - optional)

Notice there's really no heated phase here, so you can make this shampoo cold using distilled water. (Click here for the link.) If you have especially dry hair, you can increase the water soluble oils to up to 10% and reduce the water amount accordingly. 

Join me tomorrow for making a conditioning shampoo for dry hair with SCI!

16 comments:

Aesthete said...

this is one of the best shampoo recipe's I've seen, Susan! Thank you so much for posting. I had a few questions.. the 3% water soluble oil, could sulfated castor oil be an option here? I don't think I've ever seen it in shampoo, maybe there's a reason for that, maybe not emollient enough or too drying??? and can glycol stearate be added to a recipe that has water soluble oils in it or will that defeat it's purpose?

Waterspring said...

Hi Swift,

I was wondering, can the surfactant be replaced with liquid soap made by saponifying oils with potassium hydroxide (KOH)? What type of emulsifier do you recommend if it's possible to replace surfactants with liquid soap like Dr. Bronner's castile liquid soap?

Waterspring

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Waterspring. No, because liquid soap is alkaline, meaning it has a pH above 8 and we want shampoos to have a pH around 6 to 6.5 (acidic). Here's a post I wrote on the topic of using CP soap as shampoo.

Crystal said...

Thanks so much, great post.
Is there any difference in mixing in decyl glucoside in a heated vs. cool phase? Also, with this decyl glucoside surfactant, will it respond to sodium chloride as a thickener? I mixed that surfactant in my own recipe before and found that it didn't come out as thick as I would have guessed. Also, I wanted to add xanthan gum as another alternative for thickness and from my research, it's better to add this to a heated water phase to get a desired shampoo thickness, correct?
Sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to learn as much as I can.

Wendy Bond said...

Nice. Thank you so much for this wonderful in-depth recipe! I have seriously been looking for this for about weeks now. Yahooo!

Katie VanBlaricum said...

When you say "aloe vera" does this mean the gel or the juice? I sort of understand that perhaps the stuff that gels up isn't doing that on its own and that they are about the same thing anyways?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Katie. I've written up the answer at the bottom of the aloe vera post in big red letters because this is a question I get all the time - use the liquid, not the gel. The gel is thickened by carbomers, which is not helpful in something like a shampoo.

Melanie said...

This shampoo didn't work very well for me. I kept putting more on because it didn't feel like it was doing anything. But then my hair felt like straw afterward. What is it that makes some shampoos feel slimy? I actually like that slimy feel. It feels really moisturizing. How can I make slimy shampoo? LOL

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI Melanie. When I hear the word "slimy", I think of three things - the pH is too alkaline (used too much decyl glucoside or castille soap), too much gum was used, or too much Crothix/Ritathix was used. I can't really give you much more information without your complete recipe and process. Post that, and we'll see what we can do!

Melanie said...

This is what I did:
CONDITIONING SHAMPOO FOR DRY HAIR WITH GLYCOL DISTEARATE
HEATED PHASE
47% water
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
15% SMC taurate
10% aloe vera
2% glycol distearate
5% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed lupine protein

COOL DOWN PHASE
3% honeyquat
2% dimethicone
2% panthenol
1% Germall +
1% English Rose fragrance
2% Crothix
A few drops hyacinth lab color which didn’t look hyacinth-it was just blue. I tried testing the pH but it didn’t seem like the strips were working-I kept adding anhydrous citric acid and it didn’t change-it always read around 7.

It did not feel slimy-I wish it did. Do you know what I mean-some shampoos feel slimy and it feels like it is really moisturizing and goes all through the hair well. My shampoo didn't feel like it was going through the hair-I felt I had to keep adding to try to get it all through and still it didn't feel like it cleaned it but maybe it did. definitely no lather.

Lisa Reidzans Schmock said...

My first attempt at shampoo.

Phase A
39% Distilled Water
10% 10% cocamidopropyl betaine
15% Plantapon
10% Aloe Vera
10% Olive Oil PEG 7 Esters
5% Glycerin
2% Wheat Protein

Phase B
3% Honeyquat
2% Dimethicone
2% Panthenol
.5% Liquid Germall Plus
1-2% FO - Green Apple Flavor Oil (still not sure if I should be using Flavor oils in Body care stuff other than lip balm etc but it's edible so I figure should be OK )

Cool down
2% Crothix

So I made this cold, following the directions for such, boiled the distilled water. I have SMC Taurate, SCI Pearl, but I didnt want to heat and hold my first try. Can I use SCI Pearl in Shampoo?

I also have DLS Mild, Foaming Silk from Lotioncrafter(Can I use this in a shampoo?), am getting SLeS sometime this week I hope and Hydroxyethylcellulose, which The Personal Formulator stated was a shampoo thickener.

The Shampoo I made above, was a really nice yellow color. Looked like it thickened up just fine at 2% Crothix but when I used the shampoo today it was too thin for me. Also, foam, lather, bubbles. I gotta have some! Otherwise it doesn't "feel" like its working for me although I know it is ;) I had to use 1oz of shampoo to wash my hair, it wasn't coating all my hair. I have about medium length, thick, dry to very dry hair with frizzy or fly aways after my hair is dried if I dont use a smoother or shine serum. Hair felt like straw after washing out the shampoo, shouldn't it have been more moisturizing?

So I need more lather, a thicker, more conditioning shampoo. I also of course plan on making a conditioner and intense conditioner but I really need a shampoo that helps condition as well.

Any suggestions Susan? Or anyone else for that matter ;)

Thanks!

Lisa

Layla said...

Hello, Susan, thank you so much for your posts. I'm sure all of us here appreciate it a lot.
I made shampoo with your recepie + conditioner for dry hair without cons . I ended up having dull hair. I wish this formular could work for me.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Lisa. You're using Plantapon? What is the correct or INCI name for this? There are quite a few different Plantapons.

Hi Layla. I'm sorry but I don't understand your comment. "...without cons" Do you mean without conditioner? Silicones? Can you share more information so we can trouble shoot the issue?

Lisa Reidzans Schmock said...

Hi Susan. I got Plantapon at The Herbarie and it's Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate (and) Lauryl Glucoside.

The surfactants I have on hand are the Plantapon, SCI Pearl - Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, SMC Taurate Paste - Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, DLS Mild - Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cetac 30% - Cetrimonium Chloride, Foaming Silk - Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Silk Protein, Sodium Laureth Sulfate. Hehe, I went a bit overboard cause I didn't know what I should get/use.

I have about medium length, thick, dry to very dry hair with frizzy or fly aways after my hair is dried if I dont use a smoother or shine serum.

I need more lather, a thicker, more conditioning shampoo.

My most recent shampoo attempt on Wednesday I did the no heat/hold boiled water route again but it never thickened up at all with 2% Crothix.

I'm a pro at lip balms, facial serums, after shower sprays, all the "easy" stuff but shampoo at the moment remains a mystery to me!

Lisa

Ryan Pusztai said...

I am stuck on 2 recipes & am in desperate need for some help. Can you please give me some guidance? This is a never ending recipe I started & am convinced to finish haha Any guidance on %'s or what to add or take out will be greatly appreciated!

I want to make a shampoo with ingredients similar to this:
FRESH INGREDIENTS: *Aloe Vera Juice, Antioxidant Micro-Clustered Water, Decyl Polyglucose (Corn Sugar Derived Surfactant), Sea Salt, *Shea Butter, Pro-Vitamin B5, Vegetable Glycerin, *Barley Grass Juice, *Oat Grass Juice, *Wheat Grass Juice, *Dandelion Leaf Juice, *Kale Juice, *Spinach Juice, *Carob Pod, *Maca Root, Spirulina, Kelp, Chlorella, Icelandic Kelp, Dulse, Nori, Bladderwrack, Papain, Bromelain, *Chamomile, *Calendula, *Yarrow, *Horsetail, *Comfrey, *Yucca, *Melissa, *Oat Protein, *Carrot Seed Oil, Vitamin E, Vitamin C, *Lecithin, Guar Gum, Xanthan Gum, Essential Oils of *Rosemary, *Peppermint, *Spearmint, Lemon Verbena, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate (Natural Preserative System)

I can't get the consistancy right. Can you please help alter my current recipe or give me some tips? I have been stuck on this recipe for quite sometime & am in much need of help. I am determined to get this recipe down I can't give up on it haha you might know how that feels. I am confused if I should use such a high % of sea salt to thin down the product since I am using 3 thickeners lecithin, guar gum, & xanthum gum? Also do you think 20% Decyl Polyglucose is good for this shampoo recipe? What is the trick to get these ingredients with a shampoo consistancy?
Here is my recipe so far:
30% *Aloe Vera
25% Water
20% Decyl Polyglucose (which I know is high ph but don't know if the ph of juices will help bring it down w/ sea salt?)
5% Sea Salt (maybe to thin the product since going over 3% salt thins shampoo so guessing this will help thin the other thickeners lecithin, guar gum, & xanthum gum? Good or bad idea?)
5% *Shea Butter
4% Panthenol
3% Vegetable Glycerine
2-3% *organic mix blend in water of (Spirulina, Chlorella, Barley grass, wheat grass, alfalfa, nettle, kale. dandelion, kelp, bladderwrack, rockweed, sea lettuce, dulse, alaria, maca, burdock root, ginger, cayenne, acai, blueberry, goij berry, flax seed, & chia seed)
1-2% Vitamin E T50
1-2%*Lecithin granules dissolved in water
1-2% Guar Gum
1-2% Xanthum Gum
1-2% EOs
1-4% Leucidal Liquid

Ryan Pusztai said...

The 2nd recipe I want to make a body wash with ingredients similar to these:
FRESH INGREDIENTS: *Coconut Water, Decyl Glucoside (Coconut Sugar and Corn Starch Surfactant), Cocomidopropyl Betaine, (Coconut Oil Surfactant), *Shea Butter, *Virgin Coconut Oil, *Jojoba Oil, Vegetable Glycerin, *Dandelion Leaf Juice, *Spinach Juice, (*Wheat Grass Juice, *Oat Grass Juice, *Barley Grass Juice, all Gluten Free), *Carob Pod, *Maca Root, Spirulina, Chlorella, Icelandic Kelp, *Horsetail, *Comfrey, Brown Rice Protein, *Carrot Seed Oil, *Thyme, Vitamin E, Vitamin C, Lecithin, Guar Gum, Turmeric, Xanthan Gum, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Essential Oils of White Sage, Juniper, Silver Fir, Cypress, Pink Grapefruit. (*Denotes Organically Grown Ingredients)

Here is my recipe so far:
25% *Aloe Vera (Do you think coconut water is used to bring down ph instead of salt this time? I don't want to use coconut due to allergies Is Aloe Vera good alternative or should I do infused tea?)
20% Water
15% Decyl Polyglucose surfactant (which I know is high ph but should be good at 15% or should I go 10% & boost Cocomidopropyl Betaine to 20%? )
15% Cocomidopropyl Betaine surfactant
5% *Shea Butter
3% Rice Bran Oil instead of Coconut Oil
3% Jojoba Oil
3% Vegetable Glycerine
2-3% *organic mix blend in water of (Spirulina, Chlorella, Barley grass, wheat grass, alfalfa, nettle, kale. dandelion, kelp, bladderwrack, rockweed, sea lettuce, dulse, alaria, maca, burdock root, ginger, cayenne, acai, blueberry, goij berry, flax seed, & chia seed)
1-2% Vitamin E T50
1-2%*Lecithin granules dissolved in water
1-2% Guar Gum
1-2% Xanthum Gum
1-4% Leucidal Liquid
1-2% EOs